You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

AMERICANS SPEND A LOT of time in cars. Whether you have a long commute, enjoy riding with friends as they drive around, or just like sitting in the parking lot for a bit of solo time, a car might feel like an extension of your home—an intimate space for you to sing out of tune or seek silence in the middle of your day.

Unfortunately, if you’re in a car that was manufactured within the past few years, that environment isn’t as private as you think it is. Carmakers have been adding sensors, cameras, and microphones to their vehicles to improve safety and usability, but these bits of tech are also collecting a hefty amount of data that the automotive industry and other companies are selling and sharing. And don’t think this applies only to car owners: Your privacy is also at risk if you rent a car or are simply sitting in a passenger seat.  

These newer cars know what you say, where you go, and possibly even whom you’re sleeping with and how often. It’s scary, but what’s scarier is that consumers currently have little choice but to consent. 

More than computers on wheels

Cars have been equipped with onboard computers and sensors for a while now. The tools’ applications have always been rather practical—letting you know when your fuel tank is close to empty or when your machine is due for an oil change, even allowing you to get full system diagnostics via Bluetooth. But as technology advanced, so did the role of electronics within every vehicle. Now cars can help you master parallel parking, respond to your voice commands, and even alert you to the presence of other drivers as you change lanes.

“A lot of this can be used as safety features, but [car companies] are not going to let the opportunity to collect data and make money off of that slip away. They’re not just doing it for safety,” says Jen Caltrider, program director for Privacy Not Included, a series of privacy-focused consumer product reviews, at the Mozilla Foundation. 

The same navigational tool that guides you to your destination, for example, is collecting your location data, and the sensors that show which passenger hasn’t buckled up can tell if you’re alone or not, where people are sitting, and if there’s any movement. Those capabilities alone provide hundreds, if not thousands of data points every day that go straight to the car manufacturer’s servers. It’s hard to tell if any of that information is encrypted or not, Caltrider says.

Other than what your car’s sensors and cameras track, manufacturers also learn about you from other sources. If you’re buying a car, the data harvesting starts with every visit to the dealership or the brand’s website, and it continues when you enlist the help of a bank or some other type of financial institution to pay for your car. Then, when you drive home in your new ride, manufacturers keep gathering data through the car’s app. You can choose not to use the app, but it’s likely you’ll lose access to any vehicle features that require it, such as remote ignition. And then there’s what Caltrider and her team call “connected services,” including insurance companies and navigation and entertainment apps like Here and Sirius XM, which have basically become data brokers in the vehicle data industry. The bad news is that it’s unclear exactly how the information flows, how it’s shared, and where and how it’s stored. 

Your car might know too much about you

In September, Caltrider and her research team at the Mozilla Foundation launched an in-depth analysis of the privacy policies of 25 car companies doing business in the US, including the most popular ones: Toyota, Ford, Chevrolet, and Honda. The results? The Mozilla team labeled cars the worst product category it has ever reviewed for privacy.

When you read the privacy policy for any app or device, it’s common to feel confused. Tech companies have been writing privacy policies for decades, and they generally include broad or vague terms that make you feel as if they care about your data—or at least don’t make it obvious that they don’t. Car privacy policies are different: way more explicit and entirely absurd.

“Car companies are moving into the tech company world,” Caltrider says. “But they’re so inexperienced at it and it really shows.”

One of the wildest privacy policies in the Mozilla Foundation’s report is Nissan’s, which requires users to consent to the collection of sensitive information including sexual orientation, sexual activity, health diagnosis data, and genetic information. The document also says this data can be sold or disclosed to third parties for targeted advertising. It’s not clear how exactly Nissan is collecting this data or if it’s currently capable of doing so, but the fact that you’re agreeing to all of this by simply buying a Nissan is problematic enough. 

And these requirements don’t affect only drivers and car owners, as consent is murky territory in the land of vehicle privacy policies. For one thing, cars don’t grant the same control over data collection that your phone does. Most of the time, car owners will see a request for permissions on a single screen that pops up when they first set up their new car, and they may not be able to go back to it and revoke those permissions later on. 

That also means there’s assumed consent from anybody who steps inside the vehicle. Privacy policies like that of Subaru make it clear that terms and conditions affect everyone on board, regardless of whether they’re the vehicle’s registered owner or not. This means that the company burdens Subaru owners with the responsibility of informing all their passengers about the privacy policy and assumes that people are agreeing to it just by stepping into the car. It’s a safe bet that no ride-share driver or courteous coworker has ever read you a long list of types of data collection you needed to consent to before they’d give you a ride home. 

Car manufacturers, vehicle data hubs, and other actors in the industry, like insurance companies, calm concerned drivers and passengers by promising that the data they collect and save is anonymized, meaning it cannot be traced back to specific people. While anonymizing data is a common practice that’s meant to protect individuals’ privacy, research has shown that it’s not always effective and that the owner of any anonymized data can be easily re-identified when the information is combined with other datasets. This is especially true when location data is involved, Caltrider says. 

As we’ve mentioned, targeted advertising is one of the main uses car companies and third parties have for collecting data with vehicles, but it’s not the only one. More than half of the manufacturers analyzed in the Mozilla Foundation’s report say they can “share your information with the government or law enforcement in response to a ‘request.’” This leaves a lot of room for abuse, as there are no details about whether this request can be as informal as a call or an email to the right person, or if it must be a powerful document, like a court order. 

Unlike with home security cameras, it’s hard to tell exactly how many times these companies have responded to requests from police and other law enforcement agencies. But a 2021 Forbes investigation revealed that both Customs and Border Protection (CBP) and Immigrations and Customs Enforcement (ICE) had been requesting information from three companies in the vehicle data industry, including General Motors, which is the parent company of Buick, Chevrolet, Cadillac, and GMC. 

Regulation is the answer

The automotive industry in the US is huge—it brought more than $156 billion to the US economy in 2022, and more than 75 percent of Americans own a car. You’d imagine that such a rich market would include several car brands privacy-savvy users can choose from, but the Mozilla Foundation report is categorical: When it comes to data protection, they’re all bad. 

This leaves people who need to buy a new car with little choice but to consent to data collection. And it leaves their passengers with even less choice. Because it’s not only luxury vehicles that come equipped with sophisticated sensors and cameras—classic sedans like the Toyota Corolla and family SUVs like the Ford Escape also have them. As much as we’d like to say there’s an individualistic DIY way to snatch back your privacy, there’s not. You’ll have to appeal to the powers that be.

“Get mad and contact your elected officials,” says Caltrider. “It’s past time the US had a strong federal privacy law.”

She also recommends not using your car’s app, but acknowledges that this is a bandage solution and might not be an option for some people. Some of the features people need, like being able to warm the car in cold weather by turning it on remotely, require the use of the software. 

Using our power as constituents and asking our elected officials for laws that protect our data is the best chance we have of taking back the intimacy we once found inside our vehicles. Car companies simply aren’t going to change on their own—just like tech companies, they have no incentives to do so.

“And it’s not like they have a long history of ethical behavior,” Caltrider says. “They have quite the opposite.”

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: Cars are spying on us, and we’re letting them appeared first on Popular Science.

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It’s a well-known fact that staring at the sun is… not the best idea. In the same way that the sun can burn your skin, our home star can overwhelm your peepers with UV rays and literally scorch your retina.

That is a huge bummer, especially because watching a solar eclipse (when the moon covers the sun) is an incredibly cool experience. Thankfully, there are several ways to watch an eclipse without risking your vision, and one of them is building a pinhole camera out of a box, a piece of aluminum foil, and lots of tape. This is an easy and incredibly versatile project, and you can turn it into a permanent camera obscura when you’re done watching the eclipse. 

How to make a pinhole camera

1. Light-proof your box. Leaving one side open, use duct tape or electrical tape to seal the box and prevent any light rays from sneaking in. Pay special attention to the corners and wherever two pieces of cardboard meet. The pinhole will only allow a few rays of light into your box, so the projection of the sun will be dim. That means the darker your camera, the easier it will be to see the image.

As we said, this project is versatile. You can use a wide range of box sizes to make your pinhole camera, but cereal and shoe boxes work exceptionally well. We used the 15-by7 ½-by-5 ½-inch box that carried our neighbor’s latest online shopping spurt. 

Likewise, duct tape and electrical tape are the best choices to light-proof your box, but you can use any tape that will block light—dark washi tape or masking tape will also do the trick. Just keep in mind that you may have to apply multiple layers to achieve total darkness inside your box. 

[Related: A ‘ring of fire’ eclipse and Hunter’s Moon will bring lunar drama to October’s skies]

• Pro tip: Check your work by holding your box up to a light and looking inside. If you still see some shine coming through, apply another layer of tape. 

2. Determine your pinhole’s location and cover the inside of the opposite face with white paper. Measure one of the smallest sides of the box, cut a piece of white paper to the same size, and tape or glue it to the inside of the corresponding face. It doesn’t have to be perfect—as long as most of the side is covered, you’ll be good to go. Just make sure that the paper doesn’t have any wrinkles or folds, as they may distort the image of the sun. 

3. Measure the openings for the pinhole and the viewer. On the side opposite the one you covered with white paper, use your ruler and a pencil to measure two openings. The pinhole opening will be located in the upper left corner (about half an inch from the edges) and will be 2-by-2 inches (we’ll make it smaller later). 

The viewing opening will be located in the upper right corner of the box, half an inch from the top edge and an inch from the right edge of the box. This opening will be smaller—only 1 inch square.

4. Cut the openings. Using a box cutter or scissors, cut out the openings you drew. 

• Pro tip: If the openings end up being too big, don’t sweat it—you can always adjust their size with tape. 

5. Close and seal the box. Use your newly cut openings to make sure there are no other places where light might be sneaking in. Pay special attention to the corners of the box above and below your openings. Cover all the places where pieces of cardboard meet with tape. 

6. Cover the larger opening with aluminum foil. Cut a smooth 2 ½-by-2 ½-inch piece of aluminum foil. With the dull side facing you, carefully cover the big opening with the metallic sheet and tape it in place. Make sure you secure it tightly so no light can get into the box.  

• Pro tip: To smooth out any creases, softly rub the top of any fingernail over the foil in a small, circular motion. 

7.  Use the thumbtack to poke a hole in the foil. Find the rough center of the 2-by-2-inch square under the aluminum sheet and gently push the tack through before pulling it back out—you want a clean, round hole. If you don’t have a thumbtack, you can use the tip of a toothpick or an embroidery needle. Just make sure that whatever you’re using has a point (it’ll make a neater hole) and that it’s approximately 0.2 millimeters wide. 

• Note: The width of your pinhole will determine how much light gets into the box. Too much light and the image will be blurry. If that’s the case, don’t worry—just replace the foil and try making a smaller pinhole. 

8. Put your pinhole camera to the test. Stand with your back facing the sun and look into the box through the viewport. Use your hands to block out as much light as possible and move around until you find the angle where sunlight enters through the pinhole. When this happens, you should see a small projection of the shape of the sun on the white paper you pasted inside the box. 

[Related: Total eclipses aren’t that rare—and you’ve probably missed a bunch of them]

Keep in mind that the weather is crucial in determining the quality of the image you’ll see inside your pinhole camera, and whether you can see the eclipse at all. The October 14 eclipse, in particular, will be annular, so the moon will be smaller than the sun and clouds, rain, or other inclement weather will make it hard to see the event, explains Franck Marchis, a SETI Institute astronomer and the chief scientific officer of Unistellar, a company that manufactures smart telescopes.

How a pinhole camera works

Images are light. Everything we see we perceive because there’s light bouncing off of it, beaming directly through our pupils and into our eyes. All cameras, including the humble pinhole camera you just made, operate under this basic principle. The better they filter the light, the sharper the resulting image will be. 

The sun, of course, is the ultimate light source. On a sunny day, rays from the star travel to Earth and bounce off of every surface they reach. This is a lot of light coming from all directions, so if we want to see only a small portion of the sun’s rays, we have to focus those rays and filter out the rest. That’s why the pinhole in your camera is so tiny or, in more technical terms, why its aperture is so narrow—it only lets a small amount of light into the box, just enough so you can see only a dim projection of the sun when you point the pinhole directly at it. 

The dimness of the image is not ideal, but it’s the tradeoff we make for sharpness—too much light results in a blurry, out-of-focus picture. This is important during a solar eclipse, as filtering the light will allow you to see the round shape of the sun become a crescent or a ring as the moon moves in and gradually blocks the sunlight. 

When the eclipse is over, use a skewer to widen your camera’s pinhole. When you look inside, you won’t only be able to see the sun, but a slightly brighter and inverted image of your surroundings. A bigger pinhole turns your box into a camera obscura, allowing more light in and projecting an image of the objects around you.  

The post Make a classic pinhole camera to watch the upcoming solar eclipse appeared first on Popular Science.

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Reacting to something online is way more fun if there’s an animation involved. Apple seems to understand this, as it included hand gesture reactions in macOS Sonoma. They work on FaceTime, of course, but also on some other video call platforms, including Google Meet, Zoom, and Microsoft Teams. 

Now, if you have a compatible Mac, you’ll be able to celebrate your colleague’s promotion with a dramatic firework effect, or send digital hearts to your significant other without clicking or tapping anything. 

Check if your computer is compatible 

There are two system requirements you’ll need to play around with macOS’s new hand gesture reactions, and you can use one menu to confirm you have both. 

Animated hand gestures are possible thanks to the processing power of Apple’s silicon chips, so you’ll need to start by seeing if you have the right hardware. Click the Apple icon in the top left corner of your screen, then About this Mac, and a small window will pop up. The first item is Chip—if your machine is sporting an M1 or M2, you’re good to go. 

You can use the same window to check your macOS version. If it’s Sonoma, you’re good to go. Otherwise, click More info, which will take you to Settings. There, go to General, then Software Update to have your machine scan for, download, and install newer versions of the operating system. Your computer should automatically tell you if you can upgrade to the latest version of the OS, but you can also check Apple’s official list of compatible devices. 

[Related: 6 new features in macOS Sonoma you have to try]

If your machine cannot handle macOS Sonoma and is not equipped with Apple Silicon, we’re happy to tell you that there’s still a way to enable hand gestures on your video calls: using the Continuity Camera feature. This capability is available on devices running software as old as macOS 13, and it’ll let you use your iPhone as a webcam for video calls on your computer. You will need an iPhone running at least iOS 16 and signed into the same Apple ID as your Mac machine. 

2. Activate your camera and you’ll see the Video menu button appear on the main macOS navigation bar—it’s a bright green button with a white camera. Click it and make sure Reactions is selected. This will activate the feature.

3. Back on your video call, you’ll be able to make predetermined hand gestures to trigger animated reactions. For example, give a thumbs up or a thumbs down and you’ll see a gray bubble with the relevant emoji. 

You can also use both hands to make a love gesture, and small red hearts will bubble up on top of your camera feed. 

Or generate a cool laser effect by making a rad rock ‘n’ roll gesture. Just keep in mind that this might be an offensive gesture in some cultures, so be mindful of your audience. 

Maybe release some celebratory balloons by making a peace sign. 

Beyond these, Apple has a full list of gestures you can make—it’s not long but we would not be surprised if they add more over time. 

Make marked gestures

We got the best results when making very neat gestures. For that, how you angle your hands is extremely important. For example, the rock ‘n’ roll gesture triggered the laser animation more consistently if the back or front of our wrist was facing the camera—aiming our indexes and pinkies at the camera resulted in absolutely no reaction. 

Skip the hand gestures altogether

If you like the animated reactions but are not willing to try (and fail) to trigger an effect in front of your colleagues, just skip the gestures. When on a video call, open the Video menu on the main macOS navigation bar. On the emerging menu, click the arrow next to Reactions and you’ll see a quick menu of emojis you can select—these are the same ones you can trigger with hand gestures.   

Deactivate visual effects and virtual backdrops to better showcase animated reactions

If you use a virtual backdrop or any kind of built-in visual effect on your video calls, it’ll affect how your animated hand gestures show on your camera feed. For example, if you use a blur effect to protect your privacy (or hide whatever mess is sitting behind you) the hearts, balloons or bubbles that emerge when you make a hand gesture might get caught behind the effect and look blurry or low quality. If you use a virtual backdrop, then your machine will only show the animation behind the effect’s overlay, which may not show the reaction at all or make you look, well, interesting.   

The post Hand gesture reactions are one of macOS Sonoma’s coolest new features appeared first on Popular Science.

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Splitting the screen on your iPad can really amp up your productivity. The feature is officially called Split View and it’s available on all Apple tablets running iPadOS 13 and newer. When you activate it, you’ll have two open windows on your screen, whether that’s two completely different apps or a pair of windows for the same one. 

You probably have your own reasons for wanting to split up your screen, but it’s worth noting that Split View can be extremely helpful if you’re working in one app while getting inspiration from another, or if you’re messaging with two people at the same time. 

3. The open app will automatically move to the left to reveal your home screen. From here, select a second app to open. 

• Pro tip: You can open two iterations of one app if you want—just pick the same app when the iPad home screen appears. This will be especially easy to do with Apple apps, but not all tools support this feature. For example, you can use Procreate in Split View, but you can’t open two Procreate projects at the same time. 

4. Your apps or windows will now be side by side in a split-screen view. 

• Pro tip: Tap the three white dots at the top of any of the open apps or windows and choose Split View again to make them switch sides—pick Left split or Right split.

[Related: You should use your iPad as a second screen]

How to adjust the size of your split-screen apps on an iPad

You can only split your iPad screen evenly if you’re using your tablet in a landscape orientation. 

The size adjustment will happen automatically, as Split View will give each app or window the same amount of screen real estate by default. 

You can easily change this if, for example, one of the apps you’re using requires more space. On the black line splitting your screen in half, press the short gray line in the middle and move it to the right or left depending on which app you want to give more screen space to. 

Unfortunately, you don’t have total freedom to determine the split proportions of your screen. If you’re holding your iPad in a portrait orientation, the slider will only snap in place in increments of thirds, so your apps will be distributed in a 30-60 split (or 60-30, depending on if you want the bigger app on the top or bottom). With your iPad in a landscape orientation, the slider will stick to quarters, meaning your apps can only be distributed 50-50, 25-75, or 75-25. 

If you try giving an app less than one third (portrait) or one fourth (landscape) of the screen, the slider will automatically move to the edge of the screen, closing the app and turning your split-screen view into a full-screen view. 

How to have multiple split screens on your iPad

Each split screen acts like one open app. So just like you can have as many open apps as you want, you can have as many split screens as your heart desires. 

1. Follow the steps above to split your iPad screen. 

2. Swipe up from the bottom of your screen to go to the home screen. 

3. Open an app and split your screen again.

When you swipe and hold to see all your open apps, you’ll be able to see all your split screens in one place. Keep in mind that all of the open apps, whether they’re in Split View or full-screen mode, are indeed open and working—if you have too many of them, your iPad’s performance and battery life might suffer.  

How to turn off split screen view on the iPad

You can turn off Split View by closing one of the apps or windows. There are two ways to go about it. 

Use the three-dot menu

When Split View is active, you’ll see three white dots at the top of each open app or window. Choose the app you want to close, tap its three dots, and choose Close from the emerging menu. The remaining app will go into full-screen mode and you’ll be out of split screen. 

Slide the screen separator all the way to the edge of the screen

In Split View, press the gray line in the middle and slide it all the way to the left to close the app taking up the left side of the screen, or all the way to the right to close the app to the right. The remaining app will go into full-screen mode. 

FAQs

Q. Can I split my iPad screen horizontally?

At the moment, Split View is limited to a vertical split, meaning you can only have two apps or windows side by side, not on top of each other. This makes a split-screen iPad more effective when it’s in a landscape orientation. 

Q. How many apps can you multitask on an iPad?

Split View only works with two apps or windows, but you can open up a third one using Slide Over. This feature, also available from the three-dot menu, can turn an app into a floating window that sits on top of a split screen, either to the left or right.

Be warned, though—if you use Slide Over to put an app on top of a split screen, you won’t be able to move it, as it’ll replace the app under it the moment you let go. This makes Slide Over somewhat impractical to use with Split View, especially because you cannot resize an app you’ve slid over, and its default size will cover a good portion of an evenly split screen.

[Related: iPad Pro review: Pretty and powerful]

But if this still works for you and you want to push the limits of your multitasking abilities, here’s how to do it: 

1. Follow the steps above to split your iPad screen, making sure one of the apps you open is the one you want to slide over.  

2. Tap the three dots at the top of the app you want to float above your split screen and choose Slide Over from the emerging menu. This will turn the app into a floating window, while the one underneath will go into full-screen mode. 

3. Tap the three dots at the top of the app in full-screen mode, choose Split View, and pick a third app to open. This will result in a normal split-screen view, and will hide the window you just slid over. 

4. Bring back the slid-over window or app by swiping and holding from the bottom of the screen. This will show you everything that’s currently open on your iPad, and to the far left, you’ll see the window or app you slid over. Tap it to open it on top of the split-screen view. 

The post How to split your screen on an iPad and conquer multitasking appeared first on Popular Science.

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YOU’VE PROBABLY heard about the benefits of spring cleaning and keeping only what brings you joy. But maybe you haven’t considered that the same logic can also apply to the stuff gathering dust on your storage drives and in the cloud. 

Of course, they’re not literally getting coated in a layer of dirt and dead skin cells (yes, that’s what dust is), but digital files do take up space. And just as more financial security can lead to more challenges, more data can also result in more privacy problems.  

So get rid of some of it and focus your effort on securing the files that matter the most. 

Data hoarding is not good for privacy

If you’re thinking this isn’t something you need to spend time on, think again. Why? The more files you have, the more likely it is that some of your data will spill all over the web. This is because we tend to be disorganized with our digital belongings, which we usually have copies of on multiple platforms and devices. 

We propose an exercise: Think about and list all the accounts you have where you store files, photos, backups, etc. Now add to that every device you have that’s also storing data—your current phone and computers, but also the old ones, and your hard drives and flash drives. The number is likely higher than you’d expected. Now, do you know exactly what kind of information they’re storing? Yeah, probably not. 

[Related: The recycle bin settings you didn’t know you needed]

This doesn’t mean you’re messy. It happens. Sometimes it’s hard to get rid of stuff, and we don’t always have a say in what online platforms we use. Your work or school, for example, may choose them for you. On one hand, this is good, because using different accounts makes it easy to compartmentalize your life. But on the other hand, you can lose track of what you have—even misplacing files you’d consider important. 

You could have all your stuff in one very secure account, but there are two drawbacks to that approach. First, it’s not strategically sound. Put all your file-eggs in one digital basket, and you could lose everything to an outage or have all your information posted online after a data leak. Then there’s the inevitable: Files take up space and space is finite, so having a single cloud account would eventually require you to pay for space. And you don’t want to do that, especially considering how much of it is available for free on the web.

As with most conundrums, the solution is balance. Reduce the number of files you have and save whatever’s left in only a couple of secure locations, combining online and offline storage in a way that works for you. 

Cull your files

Use your computer and start with your local drive and any external hard drives you own. Then move on to your cloud services. The premise is simple: delete, delete, delete.

Tweak your system’s file explorer settings so that files display using the largest possible icons—this will save you time by allowing you to see if they’re worth keeping without actually opening them. On a Mac, make sure your files are showing as icons in Finder, then use the Cmd+ and Cmd- shortcuts to zoom in and out; on Windows, click View on any File Explorer window and choose Large icons or Extra large icons. On Mac computers, you’ll also be able to quickly see files using Preview—just select an item and hit the space bar to see it in a larger size. 

When it comes to deciding what to delete, start with the lowest-hanging fruit: circumstantial files. These include the photos you sent your partner from the grocery store to confirm which hot sauce you should get and the menu for that restaurant you went to three weeks ago. Once those files are gone, get rid of duplicates—you don’t need five slightly different pictures or three versions of the same document. Just choose the final one or the one you like the most and obliterate the rest. Continue by removing bad-quality photos and videos. If it sounds bad, delete it; if the photo is botched beyond editing, trash it; if it’s out of focus, bid it bye-bye. 

For images taken at specific events, like a concert or a wedding, curate your content. Set a specific and realistic number and select only the best items—between 50 and 100 is a good place to start if you want to give yourself some wiggle room. Consider that photos are not memories per se, but tools we use to remember, and you don’t need a full terabyte to remember. 

Once you’re done removing files from your devices and all the external hard drives you own, get comfortable and repeat the process in the cloud. Make a list of the main platforms you’re using and tackle them one by one. 

If you’re overwhelmed by the possibility of deleting something you might miss later, just use Marie Kondo’s criterion: Does it bring you joy? And, when pertinent, is it useful or irreplaceable? If the answer is no, you’ll probably forget about it in five minutes. 

And if you keep thinking about it, don’t worry—you can usually bring your deleted files back from the dead if you act quickly enough and are tech-savvy. When culling files on a cloud service, know that most platforms will move them to the trash folder and keep them there for 30 days. This means two things: 1) you won’t be freeing up space just yet; and 2) you can change your mind at any point before that time runs out. 

The trash folder on Windows and macOS is similar—even if you deleted files from your computer or hard drive, it is sometimes possible to bring them back. Just keep in mind that it can be complicated and sometimes doesn’t work at all, so proceed with caution.   

How and where to store your files

Once you’re done with the massive task of going through all your files, it’s time to organize the documents you kept. Knowing what you have and how to easily find it will allow you to adopt more secure strategies for sensitive material. For example, you don’t want your nudes to live right alongside photos of your family, which you’re more likely to share with people. A bad selection tap and your aunt will see you naked again—and this time it won’t be because she’s changing your diaper. 

A good organization strategy is to separate files according to the different aspects of your life, like “work,” “education,” and “general.” Create folders with your chosen category names, and start using them to organize your files. Within those folders, you can get as specific as you want. Whatever route you choose, the point is to know what you have and how much you have, and to label important documents as such. 

When it comes to choosing where to store your files, keep it practical. Think about your storage locations as your pocket, closet, and basement. Essential files and documents that you always want to have at hand, like your car insurance policy, should live in the cloud for easy access. Files that you probably won’t need urgently but are important enough to keep close by should stay on your phone or your computer’s hard drive—think the spreadsheet where you’ve been tracking your slow-pitch softball team’s performance this season. Finally, the documents you want to keep but you’ll hardly ever open, like your brother’s wedding pictures, should go on an external hard drive. The idea is to avoid wasting cloud space on files you probably won’t need at a moment’s notice. 

Secure your files

Now that you’ve decreased the number of files to your name, it’s time to keep them safe. Whether you’re using the cloud or a folder on your computer, secure sensitive files behind a good password and enable two-factor authentication wherever possible. 

If you can’t or won’t think of a good password, opt for a password manager—these apps will also remember your credentials for you, so it’s a win-win. As an alternative, if the platform you’re using supports passkeys, consider enabling one—it will allow you to access your files in multiple ways, such as with your face or fingerprint. Some cloud platforms offer different ways to secure your account—get to know them and use the ones that make sense for you. 

[Related: Passkeys could be better than passwords. Here’s how they work.]

Beyond that, the ultimate security measure is to encrypt your files before you upload them to the cloud or save them to a local or external hard drive. This will protect your content from data leaks and any snoopers who might want to see what you keep on your hard drive. Windows and macOS have built-in encryption options for your local documents, but you can also find dedicated apps that will do the job for you.

If this all sounds like a lot, it’s because it is. You probably have a lifetime of files scattered around on the web, your external hard drives, and multiple cloud storage accounts. This whole process of downsizing your data will take time, and it’s fine if you do it in batches. Just remember that the fewer files you have, the easier it’ll be to manage and protect them in the future. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: Reduce your privacy risk by deleting a bunch of files appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you spent spring and summer honing your propagating skills, you now probably have a bunch of new green babies. 

If windowsill real estate is running low and the rest of your flat surfaces are already burgeoning with plants, you might benefit from simple plant hangers you can easily make at home. All you need is some cotton cord and knowing how to make an easy box knot. After that, it’s all about picking the right spot for optimum light exposure, setting up a sturdy hook, and starting your very own vertical indoor jungle.

Stats

• Time: 15 minutes
• Cost: $1.30 per hanger
• Difficulty: easy 

Materials

• 4 (4-yard-long) pieces of 4-millimeter cotton cord
• 1 (2-inch-wide) wire ring

Tools

• Scissors 
• Measuring tape
• Masking tape (or washi tape)
• (Optional) hair brush (or slicker brush) 

How to make a DIY hanging planter

Measure, cut, and set your pieces

1. Measure and cut four pieces of cotton cord. You’ll be folding each piece in half, so cutting 4-yard pieces will result in a hanger that’s approximately 1 yard long (the excess is tied up in the knots). However, the overall length of the hanger—how low it will hang with a pot in it—will depend on the width of the pot or (if you’re using one) bottom plate you plan on hanging. The wider they are, the shorter the overall effect will be. 

Feel free to play around with these proportions—if you’ll be hanging a pot with a large circumference and want more of a dramatic effect, cut longer pieces of cord. The given proportions will help you know how much longer they’ll have to be. If you’re using a cord thicker than 4 millimeters, add some extra yardage to account for the thickness of the knots. 

And if you want to add some oomph to your plant hanger, you can cut more pieces of cord—as long as it’s an even number of pieces, you’ll be good to go. 

• Note: We don’t advise cutting more than six pieces if you’re using 4-millimeter cord, as you’ll need to leave enough space between the cords for the leaves of your plant to spill over the pot. If you want to use more pieces of cord, we recommend using one that’s not as thick. 

[Related: These DIY hanging plant shelves will make your home feel like a forest canopy]

2. Separate your cords into two groups and lay them on a flat surface in a cross shape. Make sure the two groups intersect right in the middle. To do this, fold them in half and draw an inconspicuous dot using a marker—you won’t be able to see it when you finish. 

3. Pass two consecutive arms of your cross through the metal ring. It doesn’t matter which ones you choose, as long as they’re side by side. 

4. Make a spiral lanyard. Also known as spiral stitch sinnet, this braid is made of multiple consecutive box knots, which you may also know as friendship knots. Don’t worry—making a spiral lanyard is way easier than it looks. 

If this is the first time you’ve tied a box knot, starting out with your yards-long cords and the metal ring might be a bit of a challenge, so we suggest taking two short pieces of cord (no longer than 20 inches) and taking some time to practice. 

How to tie a box knot 

1. With your cords making a cross shape, identify each arm starting with the one at the top. We used the four cardinal points (clockwise from the top: north, east, south, and west), but if orientation has never been your thing, you can go with letters or numbers. 

2. Take the east cord, fold it to the left, and lay it on top of the south cord. You’ll want to leave enough space so you can thread a cord through the resulting loop later. 

3. Take the south cord, fold it away from you, and lay it on top of the west cord.

4. Take the west cord, fold it to the right, and lay it on top of the north cord. 

5. Take the north cord, fold it toward you, and lay it on top of the west cord. As you can see, the movement is always the same: you take one cord and lay it on top of the one to the left of it. 

• Pro tip: You can also tie a box knot by folding your cords to the right—the effect will be the same. You can even alternate the box knots (one made by folding cords to the left, the next one to the right) to make a Crown Sinnet.

6. Now that there are no cords left to fold, take the north cord and thread it through the loop you left at the beginning. The resulting shape will be a box made of four squares.

7. Finish by pulling the cords and tightening the knot.

If this approach is too hard for you, there are several YouTube videos that will teach you different ways to make a box knot. It doesn’t matter how you do it—as long as it’s a box knot, the result will be the same. Keep in mind that unlike the practice photos above, when you’re working with your planter, each arm will have two cords.

Continue by making enough space for your pot 

5. Continue tying knots until your spiral lanyard is around 6 inches long. The objective of this part of your hanger is to secure the ring in place. Making the spiral lanyard between 2 ½ and 3 inches long will also do the trick, so you can go as long as you want. 

• Pro tip: As the lanyard gets longer, it’ll be more and more uncomfortable to keep tying knots on a flat surface. Holding the lanyard between your knees will make knotting so much easier. 

6. Measure 24 inches of loose cord starting at the end of the spiral lanyard. The structure of your hanger will consist of the lanyard attached to the metal ring, a section of loose cord, and a second lanyard where the planter will sit. The size of the planter you can hang and how low it hangs will depend on how long the section of loose cords is—the longer it is, the wider the planter can be and the lower it can hang. We made our loose cord section 24 inches long, which is ideal for planters or plates with diameters between 4 ½ and 8 ½ inches. 

• Pro tip: If you’re planning to hang a bigger planter, make sure the hook or nail you’ll be attaching your plant hanger to is securely fastened to the ceiling or wall, and can withstand the weight of your planter. Then, you can determine how long you need your loose cord section to be by hanging the planter or having someone hold it for you while you calculate the length you want through trial and error. If you need to, use a simple overhand knot to secure the cords where you want your planter to sit.

7. Use masking or washi tape to bind the cords together at the 24-inch mark. You’ll want the bottom side of the tape to coincide with the beginning of the loose cord section. 

8. Tie another lanyard. Hold the planter between your knees and start tying box knots. Again, this lanyard can be as short as 2 ½ inches or as long as you want—it just has to be long enough to prevent the weight of the planter from undoing the box knots.

9. Cut the remaining cord so they’re all the same length. When your lanyard is as long as you want it, tidy up your work by removing the tape and cutting all the remaining cord to the same length. Your planter is now ready to use. 

[Related: 7 key plant care tips every plant parent should know]

If you want to go the extra mile, you can undo the braiding of each cord by twisting them in the opposite direction. And if you want to get a full “horse tail” effect, depending on the thickness of the fibers, you can use a slicker or a hair brush (natural or mixed bristles work best) in small sections to reduce the cord to single threads. 

The post The easiest, most basic DIY plant hanger you can make appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn more ›

When the temperature drops and it’s time to take your winter gear out of storage, you want it to be fresh and ready to go. If you did your homework last year, you’ll find clean clothes wrapped in a fabric softener-smelling swirl of delight. 

But if you’re reading this, chances are that’s not the case. You’ve probably stumbled upon some funky-smelling shirts, ghost stains you swear were not there six months ago, and—oh no!—a moth-ridden mess that used to be your favorite sweater.

Nothing you can do about that last one (sorry), but there’s a lot you can do to make your cold-weather garments feel nice and crisp at the start of the colder months of the year.

Fight the odors of winters past 

There are lots of reasons the clothes you stored months ago might have a weird smell, the most common being humidity. If your garments were sitting in a cardboard box in a basement or some other dark, damp place, moisture might have crept in and left your corduroy jacket stinking like a tiny, windowless bathroom. 

But before you shake your fist into the air in rage, you should know that it’s probably your fault your clothes smell bad. 

“Any garments being put away for seasonal storage should be cleaned first. The worst thing to do is put items away for storage that are soiled,” says Jerry Pozniak, CEO of Jeeves, a luxury dry-cleaning firm in New York City. 

[Related: Stain removal tips from a Buckingham Palace-trained butler]

Unless you thoroughly washed everything that came into direct contact with your skin before you put it away, it’s highly likely that sweat, grease, and dead skin cells (body soil) might have transferred to one of your garments and decomposed over time. This is especially true if your winter wardrobe features a lot of synthetic textiles, like the ones you’d find in performance gear. These fabrics don’t breathe as well as natural fibers, so they hold on to your sweat and humidity. 

But the stink is not only months-old sweat brewing over the summer. As you may already know dark, damp, stale-aired spaces of any kind are a breeding ground for bacteria. And your dead skin cells (which are all over your dirty clothes) are the perfect snack for these tiny microorganisms, who metabolize your filth and turn it into a nose-scrunching stench. 

So your clothes reek—what next? You can try a deodorizing spray and airing out your garments in a bright, dry place. If the weather permits, hanging them outside might also do the trick, but if you don’t have the space for it, Pozniak, who’s spent 38 years in the laundry business, recommends popping your clothes in the dryer on the “no heat“ or “air dry” cycle. Keep in mind that this will only get rid of smells if your clothes have a slight hint of staleness to them, which is natural after months of sitting still in a confined space. 

But if the stench is due to gross months-old sweat or the result of mildew, you’ll have to wash it. If you really want to avoid doing extra laundry, you can always try an antibacterial spray, but it’ll probably be more efficient to bite the bullet and load the machine. 

Spooking away phantom stains

You definitely wouldn’t have stored something had you known it had a stain on it. But then you find spots you hadn’t seen before, and you wonder if you need to book an appointment with the eye doctor. It’s not your eyes—some stains just appear while your clothes are tucked away. Again, the likely culprit is body soil. 

Sweat and dead skin cells get into the fibers of your clothes even if you only wore them once. And just like a bitten apple browns over time, areas on your garment where your body soil might have accumulated can become visually stained. 

If you know anything about stains, you know that time is your enemy—the longer you let them sit, the harder they’ll be to get rid of. This is why pre-treating stains is critical. Yellow stains respond well to low-pH removers, which you can find in stores or in your cupboard in the form of vinegar. 

But you should have one important consideration with this household cleaning staple: pure vinegar is acidic and can damage fabrics containing silk or rayon, by causing discoloration, shrinkage, and even corroding elastic fibers over time. Before you pretreat any stain, check your garment’s laundry care label carefully. 

For vinegar-safe textiles, you can dilute the soiled spot by rinsing the fabric, pouring a mix of a couple of drops of high-quality laundry detergent and a tablespoon of vinegar directly onto the stain. Rub it gently or use a soft-bristled brush, and let it sit for 20 minutes before putting the garment into the washing machine. 

For non-vinegar-safe fabrics and large or tough stains, a soak will probably give you the best chance at success. Start by pre-treating the stain with laundry detergent or an enzyme-based stain remover, and continue by soaking the garment in a mixture of one part of low pH stain remover and 10 parts of water. Leave it for 30 minutes to an hour (depending on how big or difficult the stain is) and stir every five minutes. Don’t rinse the soak—finish by washing the garment with the rest of your laundry and use warm water in your load if you need a little oomph. 

Don’t forget that heat sets stains, so as soon as the cycle is done, check if the spot is still there before you put your clothes in the dryer. If it is, repeat the process and wash the garment again. 

When your sweaters become vermin food

We don’t think you need us to tell you that if you find holes in your clothes, it’s game over, more often than not. But you may still be able to save them—it’ll highly depend on the amount of damage and the creature that’s been dining on your clothes.

“Moth damage can appear as irregular holes or white moth ‘trails,’ which may look like lint,” Pozniak explains. “If you suspect moth damage, you need to have that garment dry-cleaned as soon as possible to kill the larvae.”

As an alternative, check your clothes’ care label, and if the textile can handle it, wash it in a hot water cycle. Getting the help of an expert might be the easiest option, though, as most of the time the natural fibers moths use as grub will be damaged by hot temperatures. Finally, and just as a precaution, wash all the clothes that were in contact with the affected garments, and thoroughly scrub whatever container they were in. 

This is a good approach if there’s anything you can (or want to) salvage. If a piece of great sentimental value is among the fallen, you might want to go to an expert and see if they can sew new life into it or turn it into a new garment or accessory. We’re sorry for your loss.

If the holes you find are not due to the presence of moths but rodents building a warm little nest in your winter gear, just throw everything away. Because mice and rats don’t discriminate based on the purity of your sweater’s wool blend, the damage is likely to be more extensive than whatever moths can do. Plus, you will not only be dealing with ripped fabric but also with animal droppings, pee, and saliva, which can cause allergies and even illness due to hantaviruses.

How to properly store your clothes for next winter

No one wants to start glorious sweater weather by doing a bunch of laundry, so follow these tips to keep your clothes in tip-top shape for next year. 

Do not store unwashed clothes

We hate to keep singing the same tune here, but we’re going to: wash your clothes before you store them for the season. This is especially important for garments that sit in direct contact with your skin, like base layers and undershirts. 

Body soil is the root of weird smells and stains, but to add insult to injury, moths find dirty textiles especially tasty—your soil is their seasoning. Their larvae feed on what you’ve left behind, so when you store that nice wool sweater before giving a proper wash, you’re just providing a buffet for a family of fiber-munching insects. 

“The most important factor is to put away your items for storage clean,” Pozniak says. “I have seen clients in tears after telling them about moth damage.”

Boost that scent

Give your clothes a nice smell by using scent beads in the wash. Then, when it’s time to put your garments in storage, consider placing dryer sheets, floral or coffee sachets, or cedar blocks between your clothes. You can even slip scent beads into small mesh or organza bags so their aroma rubs on the fibers. These can help neutralize odors and transfer some nice perfume directly into the textiles. 

[Related: How to make your own laundry detergent]

Fold your knits, never hang them

Pozniak recommends folding cashmere and other pieces containing a high percentage of wool, and storing them (ideally individually) in fabric garment bags. This will allow the fabric to breathe and protect it from vermin. 

And don’t worry too much about squishing your sweaters. Pozniak says that even if your garments are a wrinkled mess when you remove them from storage, you will not have harmed the fibers. Just steam your crumpled-up knits to get rid of any creases and return them to their fluffy glory. 

Use quality hangers 

Garments like wool coats should be hung in garment bags and using appropriate hangers. Don’t use the wire ones from the dry cleaners—get wooden, wide-shouldered ones that will help maintain the shape of your outerwear. If you want to invest, choose cedar hangers, which will not only infuse your clothes with a nice woody smell, but will also help keep moths away. 

Get some accessories

Products like moth balls and traps, and cedar bags can also protect your clothes from moths. Meanwhile, sturdy, air-tight containers are a great way to prevent any kind of critter from getting their grubby little paws on your favorite garments. Just make sure to pile them up correctly, as potential cracks may turn plastic bins into prime rat real estate. To keep knits fresh and wool coats lint free, Pozniak recommends the combs and lint removers he and his team use at Jeeves. 

Buying more accessories for your clothes may seem silly—especially when you’ve already spent a lot of money on them. But this is an easy way to make your garments last longer, which won’t only get you more bang for your buck in the long run, but is also more sustainable.

The post How to get your stale-smelling clothes ready for sweater weather appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

The latest version of Google Chrome introduced new settings that have raised privacy concerns. Google says these tools “give you more choice over the ads you see,” which sounds nice. But it’s also a jargony way to say the browser will track your web surfing and share some of your data with advertisers so they can show you ads that more effectively tempt you into spending money.  

The update has not been well received by privacy advocates, and even though you can turn all of these features off (more on that later), you can also just ditch Chrome and import your data into another browser, like Firefox, Edge, or Safari. 

Jumping ship is incredibly easy, and even though the process won’t transfer every single customization you’ve made to Chrome over the years—like personalized search engines and experimental flags—you’ll be able to pick up where you left off in no time.

How to import bookmarks and other Chrome data to Firefox

If you care about privacy, Firefox is a great alternative to Chrome. It’s free, fast, highly customizable, and easy to use. It also has a great track record when it comes to preventing cookies from following you around the web.

Start by downloading Firefox (available for all major operating systems) and opening it.  

1. From the main navigation bar, go to File, then Import from another browser. This will open a data transfer tool in a new tab. 

2. Firefox will automatically detect other browsers on your system and all user profiles or sessions saved to each one. Use the dropdown menu to select the session and browser you want to import your data from. 

3. Click the plus sign next to Import all available data to customize what you want to transfer from Chrome. By default, the checkboxes next to Bookmarks, Saved logins and passwords, Browsing history, and Extensions will be selected. If you want to leave something behind and start fresh, you can click the checkbox again to deselect that item.   

4. Finish by clicking Import.

Firefox will immediately organize your bookmarks in its own bar, have your browsing history readily available, and whenever you need a password, it’ll offer the right one. Extensions may require further tweaking, but you’ll know if one requires your attention by clicking the extensions icon to the right of the address bar—it looks like a puzzle piece.

[Related: 11 hot Firefox tips and tricks that might finally convince you to switch browsers]

How to import your Chrome data to Edge

Microsoft’s recently renewed Edge browser is built on Chromium, which means it plays particularly nice with Google’s offer. This also means that importing Chrome bookmarks and other data to Edge is both easy and intuitive, and you’ll also be able to import a lot more than with other browsers. 

1. Open Edge and go to Settings—find it by clicking on the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen. 

2. In the new tab, under Profiles, go to Import browser data. 

3. Select Import next to Import data from Google Chrome. 

4. In the emerging dialogue box, you’ll see two dropdown menus—use the second to select the Chrome session you want to import data from. 

5. Use the checkboxes below to choose what you want to import from Chrome. By default, all items will be selected: Favorites or bookmarks, Saved passwords, Personal info, Payment info, Browsing history, Settings, Open tabs, and Extensions. If you want to leave something behind, just click the relevant checkbox again to deselect it. When you’re done, click Import.

6. Edge will finish importing your data almost immediately, and will tell you so. All of your information will be readily available and just like you had it on Chrome. That’s the benefit of switching to a browser that’s built so similarly. 

How to import Chrome data to Safari

Apple users can try the built-in Safari browser, which some say may even be better than Chrome. The only downside is that, just like mobile apps for iOS and Android, the extensions Chrome uses are different from the ones for Safari. This means you can’t import them from one browser to the other, so you’ll have to start from scratch on that front. You can, however, easily import bookmarks, history, and passwords. 

1. Open Safari, go to File, hover over Import from, and choose Google Chrome.

2. Safari will open a dialogue box listing all the items it’ll import from Chrome: Bookmarks, History, and Passwords. All these checkboxes will be selected by default, so if you want to leave something behind, just click on it to deselect it. 

3. Once you’re satisfied with your choices, close Chrome if you haven’t already, and click Import. When it’s done, Safari will show you exactly what it did—click OK to close the dialogue box.

Your browsing history and passwords will be readily available. Unfortunately, Safari does this annoying thing where it imports your bookmarks into a folder within a folder, so you won’t immediately see your links on your Favorites bar. You can move the items and get rid of the extra folders, but you’ll have to manually drag and drop them, which can be a pain depending on the number of pages you’ve saved.

Export your data from Chrome

1. On Chrome for desktop, click the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen and head to Google Password Manager—the manager will open in a new tab.

2. In the left sidebar, click Settings. 

3. Under Export passwords, click Download file, and provide any credentials or biometrics Chrome might ask for to confirm it’s you. 

4. Use the emerging explorer window to choose a location for your CSV file, then click Save. 

• Note: The resulting CSV file will contain all of your credentials and is not encrypted. This means that if anybody else opens it, they’ll be able to see the username and passwords for all of your saved accounts. Don’t leave this file laying around—import it immediately and delete it as soon as you’re done with it. Then completely remove it from your hard drive by deleting it again from your computer’s trash.
  

5. Now you’ll need to download the HTML file with your bookmarks. Click on the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen, hover over Bookmarks, and click on Bookmark manager

6. Click the three dots in the upper right corner of the tab. Confusingly enough, these are not the same three dots that you clicked in Step 1, but you’ll find the correct ones right below them. 

7. Click Export bookmarks. Use the emerging window to select the location you want to put the file in, and click Save.  

Import CSV and HTML files to Firefox

1. From the main navigation bar, go to File, then Import from another browser. This will open an import tool in a new tab. 

2. Use the dropdown menu to select either Passwords from CSV file or Bookmarks from HTML file. Whichever one you choose, Firefox will open a new window so you can select the correct file. Click on it, and the browser will import the data. 

3. Repeat the process with the remaining file. 

Import CSV and HTML files to Safari

1. Open Safari, go to File, Import from, and then choose either Bookmarks HTML file or Passwords CSV files. 

2. Use the emerging window to find the correct file and import it. When importing passwords, Safari will require your authentication (biometrics or password) to add the information to your Keychain. 

[Related: 7 things Safari can do that Google Chrome can’t]

3. If you imported your bookmarks, you’re done. If you imported passwords, Safari will tell you how many of your credentials it imported. If there’s some data it couldn’t save, you can click on Open Password settings in the dialogue box and manually add the missing information. 

4. Repeat the process with the remaining file. 

Import CSV and HTML files to Edge

1. While using Edge, go to Settings—you can find it by clicking on the three dots in the upper right corner of your screen. Under Profiles, go to Import browser data. 

2. Select Import next to Import data from Google Chrome. 

3. In the emerging dialogue box, use the first dropdown menu to select either Favorites or bookmarks HTML file or Passwords CSV file. 

4. In the next dialogue box, click Choose file. Use the File Explorer window to pick the right file on your local hard drive. Select it and click Open. Edge will then confirm it’s done importing your data, which will be immediately available for you. 

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with the remaining file. 

How to turn off Chrome’s new privacy settings 

If you’re throwing your arms in the air and asking yourself if there is a way you can just keep Chrome without the ad tracking features, the answer is yes: just turn them off. 

On Chrome, go to your privacy settings or type chrome://settings/adPrivacy into the search bar. There, you’ll see three options you can click on to get more information: Ad topics, Site-suggested ads, and Ad measurement.

Ad topics analyzes your browsing history to determine topics you’re interested in. So, if you search “Yankees score” and visit the official site for Major League Baseball, Google will add “baseball” or “sports” to your topics. You can see the list of topics the browser has identified for you, and if you’re not comfortable with one of them, you can block it. Chrome will share four weeks worth of this data at a time with advertisers so they can show you stuff you might like. If you don’t want any of this, just toggle off the switch next to Ad topics. 

With site-suggested ads, Chrome allows sites to show you ads based on your topics and other browsing data. You won’t be able to see a comprehensive list of the sites that can do this, but if you can think of one that you’d rather not have your data, you can block it. But again, you can disable the entire feature by toggling off the switch next to Site-suggested ads.

Finally, ad measurement allows Chrome to share certain data with websites so they know how effective the ads they showed you were. The browser says it constantly deletes this data, but doesn’t say how often, and explains that browsing history remains private, but it’s not clear to what extent the data is anonymized. If you don’t want to run any risks, you can just disable the option by toggling off the switch next to Ad measurement.

The post How to finally ditch Chrome and move all your data and bookmarks to another browser appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

You thought convincing your friends to swap WhatsApp for Telegram or Signal would be the hardest thing about switching messaging apps. But then you realized you’d lose your precious sticker collection.

Only you don’t have to. Whether you walk on the iOS or Android side of the street, you can move all of your stickers from WhatsApp to Telegram or Signal. It’s slightly unintuitive, and will probably take a while if you have an iPhone, but at least you won’t have to throw years of sticker-collecting out the proverbial window. And then you can go ahead and delete WhatsApp without looking back.

How to export WhatsApp stickers to Telegram 

On an Android phone

1. From the Files app, scroll down to Internal storage and follow this path: Android > Media > com.whatsapp > WhatsApp > Media > WhatsApp Stickers. Don’t be surprised if you find a large number of WebP files in that folder—it holds your personal collection of stickers and every single one you’ve ever received. Even the bad ones.

• Note: We tried this path on a Pixel 7 Pro, but there’s a lot of variation among Android phones, so the steps on your device might be slightly different depending on its manufacturer. 

2. Select the stickers you want to export. If you want to trim the fat and grab only the best of the best, long-press one file to activate selection mode and tap on the rest of the files you want to export. If you think you can leave nothing behind, tap the three dots in the top right corner of your screen to Select all. 

3. Once you’re done, hit the three dots again, tap Move to, and select an easily accessible folder on your phone—we moved our stickers to the Downloads folder.

• Note: If you have a large number of stickers, it might be easier to move them to your laptop and import them to Telegram using the platform’s desktop client. To do that, you can use Android’s Nearby feature or transfer the files to your computer using a USB cable. You can also back up your stickers to a cloud service (like iCloud or Google Drive) that you can easily access through a web browser. Just remember that you’ll have to download them to a local folder on your computer before uploading them to Telegram. 

[Related: Make a Memoji that actually looks like you]

4. To import your stickers into Telegram, you’ll be using the app’s official sticker bot. On the app, use the search feature (the magnifying glass in the upper right corner of the screen) to summon it. 

5. Type /newpack into the message field and follow the instructions.

6. Upload your stickers as files. Tap the paper clip icon on the right of the message field and choose File. Use your device’s file explorer to get to the folder where you saved your stickers and send them to the bot—you can do this one by one or in bulk.  

7.  The sticker bot will ask you for one or two emojis that best describe your sticker. This will help it know what the sticker is about so it can recommend it when you’re messaging your friends. 

• Note: If you upload multiple stickers, you’ll only have to provide an emoji for the first one. This is less of a hassle, but it’ll hinder Telegram’s ability to provide accurate sticker recommendations in the future.  

8. When you’re done, type /publish. Telegram’s sticker bot will ask you to give a unique short name to your pack, which will serve to create a URL you can share with your contacts so they can also use your stickers. 

9. Tap the URL and on the next screen finish by hitting Add stickers. They will be easily accessible every time you tap the sticker icon to the left of the message field.  

On an iPhone

You can’t transfer WhatsApp stickers anywhere using an iPhone, but you can use WhatsApp’s web platform and Telegram’s sticker bot to transfer stickers from your computer. It’s easy, but might take a while.

1. Open WhatsApp web in your browser and find a sticker you like in a chat. Right-click on it and choose Save image as to store the sticker as a WebP file. Repeat this step to save as many stickers as you want.

• Note: You won’t get the option to save the image on WhatsApp’s desktop client, so make sure you use the web interface on your browser. 

[Related: Emojis and reaction GIFs make Slack better. Here’s how to create them.]

2. Open Telegram in your browser and use the search feature in the left corner of your screen to summon the app’s official sticker bot.

3. Type /newpack into the message field and follow the instructions.

4. Upload your stickers as files. Tap the paper clip icon on the right of the message field and choose File. Use your device’s file explorer to get to the folder where you saved your stickers and send them to the bot—you can do this one by one or in bulk.  

5. The sticker bot will ask you for one or two emojis that best describe your sticker. This will help it know what it’s about so that it can then recommend it to you when you’re messaging your friends. 

• Note: If you upload multiple stickers, you’ll only have to provide an emoji for the first one. This is less of a hassle, but it’ll hinder Telegram’s ability to provide accurate sticker recommendations in the future.  

6. When you’re done, type /publish. Telegram’s sticker bot will ask you to give a unique short name to your pack, which will serve to create a URL you can share with your contacts so they can also use your stickers.

7. Tap the URL, and finish on the next screen by hitting Add stickers. They will be easily accessible every time you tap the sticker icon to the left of the message field.  

How to export WhatsApp stickers to Signal 

Good news: Transferring WhatsApp stickers to Signal is a lot easier than moving them to Telegram. The key is using Signal’s desktop app. 

First, export your WhatsApp stickers as WebP files. How you do this will depend on your phone’s operating system. Click to skip directly to the steps for iPhone, or continue for the Android how-to:

On an Android phone

1. From the Files app, scroll down to Internal storage and follow this path: Android > Media > com.whatsapp > WhatsApp > Media > WhatsApp Stickers. There you’ll find WebP files with your personal collection of stickers and every single one you’ve ever received. Even the bad ones.

• Note: We tried this path on a Pixel 7 Pro, but there’s a lot of variation among Android phones, so the steps on your device might be slightly different depending on its manufacturer. 

2. Select the stickers you want to export. If you want to trim the fat and grab only the best of the best, long-press one file to activate selection mode and tap on the rest of the files you want to export. If you think you can leave nothing behind, tap the three dots in the top right corner of your screen to Select all. 

3. Once you’re done, you’ll need to transfer the files to your computer. You have three options:

On an iPhone

1. Open WhatsApp web in your browser and find a sticker you like in a chat. Right-click on it and choose Save image as to store the sticker as a WebP file. Repeat this step to save as many stickers as you want.

• Note: You won’t get the option to save the image on WhatsApp’s desktop client, so make sure you use the web interface on your browser.

2. Continue below.

Upload your stickers to Signal

Once your stickers are saved to your computer, you can upload them to Signal. 

1. Open the Signal desktop app, go to File, and click Create/upload sticker pack.  

2. Click the plus sign to open your computer’s file explorer or drag and drop your stickers. The app will show you thumbnails of what you’ve uploaded—click the X in the upper right corner of each sticker to remove it, or click the plus sign at the end of the selection to add more. Finish by hitting Next. 

3. Click the emoji icon in the upper right corner of each thumbnail to associate an emoji with your sticker. Signal will use this as a hint to know what your sticker is and recommend it to you when you’re messaging your friends. Click Next when you’re done. 

4. Give your sticker pack a title, an author name, and a cover image. This will help identify your stickers if you want to share them later. 

5. Hit Next and confirm your choice in the next dialogue box by clicking Upload. Your stickers will automatically upload to Signal and you’ll be able to immediately use them in a chat. 

To manage your sticker packs, go to Signal on mobile or the web, open any chat, click or tap the sticker icon, and then hit the plus sign. You should see your sticker icons under Installed, and you’ll be able to remove them by clicking Uninstall on desktop and web, or the X on mobile.  

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2021.

The post How to transfer your WhatsApp stickers to Signal and Telegram appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

There are two settings panels in Google Chrome for desktop: One appears when you choose Settings from the application menu, and one pops up when you type chrome://flags into the address bar and hit Enter.

These Chrome flags are more experimental settings aimed at power users, but anyone can use of them. They let you control the appearance of the browser, tweak performance, speed up downloading, and plenty more.

To find the ones you’re interested in, use the search box at the top of the flags list, and enable or disable them using the drop-down menus on the right-hand side. Here, we have some suggestions. 

If you’d rather use Chrome in dark mode all the time, find the #enable-force-dark flag and set it to Enabled. Every site you visit from then on will get the message to show its contents in dark mode, no matter what the rest of your software is doing.

2. See quick previews of open tabs

3. Keep more web pages in the cache

Locate the #back-forward-cache flag, set it to Enabled, and Chrome will keep more pages cached locally on your computer as you make use of the forward and backward buttons in the browser. 

This improves browsing speed on slower or less stable internet connections (if you’re going forward and backward a lot, at least) because pages won’t have to be loaded from the web each time.

4. Speed up downloads

Parallel downloading is where an application requests a download several times, which should speed up transfer times in a lot of cases. If you don’t mind the extra bandwidth this can take up, you can switch on the feature by finding the #enable-parallel-downloading flag and switching it to Enabled.

6. Fill out forms faster

To save you time when filling out forms and making payments on the web, Chrome will keep information such as addresses and credit card details stored for you if you want. By default, it will suggest details as you move through a form, giving you the option to select suggestions as you go.

But if you switch the #how-autofill-type-predictions flag to Enabled, then these suggestions will automatically be put in for you, no typing required. Assuming Chrome identifies the form fields correctly, it should save you time.

7. Get more privacy with incognito mode

Google Chrome’s incognito mode allows you to surf the web at your leisure without leaving any trace in the cache, history, and other browsing information. But when you’re playing a piece of audio or video, your device’s media player gets involved, and it might disclose the content you are consuming to others via your gadget’s lock screen, for example. 

To keep your operating system out of the equation, enable the #hide-incognito-media-metadata flag and ensure your incognito session is actually as private as it can be. 

8. Enable live captions on Chrome

There are several apps out there with their own live caption capabilities, but for everything else you play on Chrome, you can use the ​​#enable-accessibility-live-caption flag. This setting will generate captions for media playing on Google’s browser, even if the website you’re visiting doesn’t support them. 

This feature is only available in the desktop version of Google Chrome, which means you cannot use it on your mobile device. Luckily, if you have an Android phone, you won’t have to worry about that because these gadgets have a built-in live caption feature you can use.

9. Optimize Chrome for touchscreens  

Some laptop models include touchscreens, turning these devices into computer-tablet hybrids. Unfortunately, not all desktop programs and apps, including Google Chrome, are optimized to work on touchscreens. 

[Restore: How to clean a computer screen without destroying it]

This is where the #top-chrome-touch-ui can help. The setting bridges the gap between your shiny new touchscreen laptop and the desktop version of Chrome, making scrolling and navigating more fluid. 

10. Restore old flags—temporarily 

As we mentioned at the beginning of this story, Google Chrome flags are experimental. This doesn’t just mean that they might glitch, but also that they come and go: Some become part of the browser’s built-in features, while others disappear into oblivion. 

The post 10 Google Chrome flags you need to turn on right now appeared first on Popular Science.

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If for whatever reason you’re done with WhatsApp, you can always delete it. But removing the app from your devices will only get you so far. Your account will still be active and your contacts will still be able to message you—you just won’t get any of their texts. 

To truly quit Meta’s messaging app, you’ll need to delete your WhatsApp account—but we wouldn’t recommend leaving all of your data behind. The process is a bit longer than just hitting “Delete,” but you’ll be done in no time. 

2. Head to Chats and tap Chats backup. You’ll be able to see the backup settings for your device (Google Drive for Android phones, iCloud for iOS devices), and tweak how often WhatsApp saves your messages to the cloud. 

3. Manually back up your data by tapping the Back Up button. If you change your mind about deleting WhatsApp later, you can use this backup to restore your chat history easily. 

• Note: This process may take a while depending on the last time you saved your message data or how much of a WhatsApp power user you are. Let it finish completely before proceeding. 

4. Even if your WhatsApp backup sits tight on the cloud, you won’t be able to read that data. So, if you’re sure you want to get rid of the messaging app, you’ll need to export chats into text files—do that by opening an individual or group chat. 

• On Android, tap the three-dot menu, More, and then Export chat.
• On iOS, tap the name of the person or group chat and select Export chat. 

6. On the next dialogue box, you’ll need to choose whether you want to include media (photos, stickers, videos, and GIFs). WhatsApp limits the size of chat exports so they can send them over email—if you choose to include media, the export will only include the last 10,000 messages, whereas if you decide to leave media behind, the export will include the last 40,000 exchanges.

7. Use the sharing feature on your phone to choose an app to export your chat history to. If you want to back it up to the cloud, you can send it directly to Google Drive or iCloud, depending on the make of your device.

8. Repeat steps 4 to 7 with as many chats as you want.   

[Related: 6 alternatives to WhatsApp]

How to save your account information on WhatsApp

Unlike your chat history, to save your account information you’ll have to request it. Keep in mind that saving your account information will only serve as a reference—you won’t be able to use these files to restore your account after you permanently delete it. 

1. On Settings, go to Account.

2. Tap Request account info and choose Request report. As with other Meta-owned platforms such as Facebook and Instagram, you’ll need to wait around 48 to 72 hours for WhatsApp to bundle up all of your data, so be patient. 

3. When your information is ready, you’ll get an automated message on the app with a download link. You’ll have a limited amount of time to use. Most platforms will only give you a few weeks to get your stuff, but WhatsApp will keep the link active for a few weeks. 

4. After WhatsApp notifies you, go to the Request account info menu.

5. Tap the Download report button. The platform will download a ZIP file with HTML and JSON documents—you won’t be able to see these files within the app, so you’ll have to export them. 

6. When your report is fully downloaded, tap Export report and confirm your choice.

7. Pick an external app to share the report. The easiest option is to send a copy of the report to your email or upload it to your cloud storage service of choice.

8. (Optional) You can permanently delete your WhatsApp account information report from your phone. To do that, tap Delete report and confirm your choice. 

In case you’re having second thoughts, we’re happy to tell you that at this point, your WhatsApp account is still intact and you don’t have to go through with the deletion if you don’t want to. But if, on the other hand, you’re convinced WhatsApp is not for you, go ahead to the next (and final) step.

How to permanently delete your WhatsApp account

To hammer the last nail in the coffin of your WhatsApp account, go to Account and then Delete my account. Enter your registered phone number and hit DELETE MY ACCOUNT. This will delete your entire chat history, remove you from all of your WhatsApp groups, and obliterate your Google Drive chat backup.

WhatsApp may take up to 30 days to complete the deletion process, but the company is adamant in stating that this is not a grace period. According to their support site, you won’t be able to access your information again during this time. 

The post How to permanently delete your WhatsApp account without losing your precious chats appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

If you have an Apple mobile device, you know the sound it makes when you charge it. It’s simple and does its job well—but it’s boring. Luckily, you can change this mundane audio cue by adding an iPhone automation.

Your journey starts in the Shortcuts app, which you can use to set up a handful of customizations. Among those possibilities is an automation that will make your iPhone or iPad say something specific whenever you connect it to power. 

Is it super useful? Probably not. But depending on the phrase you come up with, it can be a lot of fun. 

How to change your iPhone or iPad’s charging sound

If you haven’t dived into them, an iPhone automation (also available for iPad) is a series of actions that occur automatically after a trigger. For example, you can use these unique commands to create a routine with your smart home gadgets, like turning on the lights or playing a specific playlist on your smart speaker once your iPhone connects to your WiFi. You can also set up different actions that will only affect your device. 

[Related: The easiest way to cue up calming sounds on your iPhone]

1. Create the automation by opening the Shortcuts app on your iPhone or iPad. 

2. In the upper left corner of the screen, tap the menu icon—the rectangle with three lines on the left side. Then, go to Automation. 

3. On the next menu, tap Create personal automation to link the process directly to the device you’re currently using.

• Note: The other option, Set up your home, ties an automation to your entire smart home ecosystem, and that’s not what we want to do here.

4. Choose your trigger by scrolling down to Charger and tapping Is connected. This will set the action to happen only when you plug in the power cord. Hit Next to continue. 

5. Choose what your device does when you charge it. Tap Add action and then All actions. 

6. From the comprehensive list that emerges, choose Speak text—you’ll find it under the Documents category. This option will make your device read something you write out loud whenever you plug it in. 

7. On the Speak text menu, you’ll see a blurred Text option next to Speak—tap it and write the phrase you want your gadget to say. We chose “Ohh yeah! Gimme some juice!” but you can use whatever you want—the sky’s the limit. 

• Note: Just remember that if you use a dirty joke as a sentence, your device will say it out loud for everybody to hear even if it’s silent or in Do Not Disturb mode. 

8. Tap the blue arrow to the right of your phrase to further customize the iPhone automation—you’ll be able to choose the pitch, speed, and voice you want your device to use, and even change the language. 

• Pro tip: By default, your device will read the text in Siri’s voice, but there are other fun alternatives. If you want a more metallic, android voice, choose Zarvox or Trinoids; if you’re into giving your iPhone a creepy laugh, go for Jester; and if you want your Apple device to sing back your phrase, choose Good News. 

[Related: Hidden iPhone tricks that will change the way you use iOS]

9. Check everything is exactly as you like it by tapping the play icon at the bottom right of the menu and listening to the audio sample. If you’re satisfied, go back to Edit automation. 

10. Toggling off the switch next to Ask before running and confirming your choice by choosing Don’t ask. This will make sure the action is completely automatic—otherwise, your iPhone or iPad will send you a notification every time you plug in the charger and you’ll have to engage with it to trigger the action. Not nearly as fun. Finish by tapping Done.

If you’re running out of juice while at a meeting with a client for example, you might want to disable your automation—do so by opening it in the Shortcuts app and toggling off the switch next to Enable this automation. You can also tone down a risqué phrase at any time by opening your automation, tapping Speak text, and replacing the words you want your device to read out loud. 

And if you get tired of your Apple device’s new personality, from the Automation gallery, slide the unopened item to the left and hit Delete. 

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2022.

The post Your iPhone’s charging sound is boring. Have it say ‘Gimme some juice!’ instead. appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best Overall		Pentel GraphGear 500		SEE IT	This reliable classic provides great control and comes in four lead sizes.
Best for Precision		rOtring 600 Black Barrel Mechanical Pencil		SEE IT	This sturdy metal pencil is designed to last and comes in a hexagonal shape that keeps it from rolling.
Best Ergonomic Design		Pilot Dr. Grip G-Spec Shaker Mechanical Pencil		SEE IT	Designed with a combination hard and soft grip that’s easy on the hands even after hours of use.

If you’re an artist, an architect, or a person who prefers much more analog note-taking, chances are you have at least one mechanical pencil in your arsenal. These tools are versatile little pieces of engineering that come in a wide range—from the most basic plastic designs to more sophisticated, metallic models. Not all writing tools are created equal, and diving into a market as varied as this one can certainly be overwhelming. Worry not—even though the best pencil for you will ultimately depend on what you particularly like, there are certain specs you need to look out for. In the meantime, here are our picks for the best mechanical pencils.

• Best overall: Pentel GraphGear 500
• Best for precision: rOtring 600 Black Barrel Mechanical Pencil
• Best for drawing: Koh-i-Noor Mechanical Hardtmuth Lead Holder
• Best ergonomic design: Pilot Dr. Grip G-Spec Shaker Mechanical Pencil
• Best budget: Tombow MONO Graph

How we chose the best mechanical pencils

Newcomers to the pencil world might get their senses saturated with the sheer amount of mechanical pencils available in the market right now. After all, a pencil is a pencil. Except that it’s not. That’s why we scoured the internet, including office-supply stores and specialized sites, to see what’s out there, read dozens of user reviews, and tried product after product to find the best one in each category. To make decisions easier, we broke down the winners based on different factors—best overall, best value, precision, best for art and drawing, best comfort, etc. Whatever your favorite notebook, there’s a mechanical pencil to match.

The best mechanical pencils: Reviews & Recommendations

We considered design and comfort, paying special attention to how these tools feel in your hand and if their weight and girth make it easy to write and draw. We also considered precision, durability, extras such as erasers and rubber grips, and price points. One of our choices should be a perfect match for you.

Best overall: Pentel GraphGear 500

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Why it made the cut: Yes, Pentel already launched the GraphGear 1000, an allegedly better and improved version of this classic mechanical pencil. But the original GraphGear 500 is really all you need—it’s more affordable, reliable, and unlike its successor, still looks like a classic mechanical pencil. There’s a reason why Japanese retailer Muji made their gravity mechanical pencil line look (and feel) exactly like it.

Specs

• Body material: Plastic
• Built-in hardness indicator: Yes
• Sleeve size: 4 mm
• Lead size: 0.3mm, 0.5mm, 0.7mm, and 0.9mm sizes

Pros

• Incredibly durable
• Precise
• Built-in lead hardness indicator

Cons

• Body made of light-duty plastic
• The metallic tip is one piece, so it’s not the easiest to clean

The metallic mesh grip in the GraphGear 500 allows for great control and embeds the pencil with added weight towards the tip, providing a low center of gravity. This feature is super pleasant to the touch and stays cleaner for longer, unlike those gunk-gathering rubber grips. The metal tip also allows for great precision and incredible durability—I’ve been writing and drawing with my GraphGear 500 for over five years, and it still feels like it did on the first day. 

The GraphGear 500 releases the lead through a 4mm lead sleeve, which provides greater paper visibility, making it perfect for working on small details or using rulers. This mechanical pencil comes in four different sizes (0.3mm, 0.5mm, 0.7mm, and 0.9mm), and the writing on the barrels is color-coded to reflect that, making it easier to find the exact tool you need for the job. To help with this, the GraphGear 500 also has Pentel’s signature lead grade indicator built into the eraser cap, so you can know exactly what you’ve loaded your pencil with at all times. 

No matter how many iterations of this pencil are out there, the original GraphGear 500 is a true classic. If you don’t lose it first, you’ll be putting your ideas on paper for a long time.

Best for precision: rOtring 600 Black-Barrel Mechanical Pencil

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Why it made the cut: In 1989, rOtring established a new benchmark of precision with the launch of the 600-series pencils. These writing tools were designed specifically for technical drawing and durability, a standard that continues today.

Specs

• Body material: Metal
• Built-in hardness indicator: Yes
• Sleeve size: 4 mm
• Lead size: 0.5mm and 0.7mm

Pros

• Extremely durable
• Lead hardness indicator
• Gnarled grip

Cons

• Expensive
• Hefty
• Non-retractable lead sleeve

The rOtring mechanical pencil can easily last you a lifetime. It’s designed with a full metal body that gives it its 0.8-ounce weight heft. This provides a clear center of gravity, which results in cleaner, more precise lines. Still, this mechanical pencil is more than twice as heavy as the Pentel GraphGear 500, so if you’re not used to this weight, it may take you a bit longer to get used to it. 

In addition, the hexagonal shape of the rOtring 600 prevents it from rolling if you’re using an inclined surface and makes it easier on your hands to draw or write for hours. The gnarled metallic grip is comfortable, making it easy to hold the pencil without slipping. A lead guidance sleeve helps prevent breakage and gives you an unobstructed view of the page, perfect for working out details. Finally, the rOtring 600 has a brass internal mechanism that provides high precision in lead advancement. This means the pencil will push the same length of lead with every press of the button and will keep the lead in place regardless of the pressure you apply. 

Best for drawing: Koh-i-Noor Mechanical Hardtmuth Lead Holder

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Why it made the cut: OK, technically, a lead holder is not a mechanical pen, but it shares enough characteristics that it can pass as one. The Koh-i-Noor Mechanical Hardtmuth Lead Holder is a must-have if you don’t want to get your hands dirty while you sketch.

Specs

• Body material: Metal
• Built-in hardness indicator: Unknown
• Sleeve size: Unknown
• Lead size: 5.6mm x 80mm leads

Pros

• Durable
• Thick and steady
• Full metal body

Cons

• Little control over lead advancement
• Short
• Hefty

At only 4-and-a-half inches long, the Koh-i-Noor Mechanical Lead Holder may be a little short, but it’s thick enough to provide great grip and control. Its inner metallic mechanism holds 5.6mm leads in place no matter how far out you’re using it—you won’t be able to push it or twist it without engaging the push button. This feature can easily make up for the short length of the barrel if you need to handle your pencil from a greater distance. 

The full metal body of the Hardtmuth gives it an impressive 1.48-ounce weight—this can be a problem if you’re not used to such a chunky tool, but it’ll be right up your alley if you need a lower center of gravity for your sketching and shading. And the metal clip on the Koh-i-Noor Mechanical Hardtmuth Lead Holder is also sturdy, so you can take it anywhere you want without fear of losing it.

Best ergonomic design: Pilot Dr. Grip G-Spec Shaker Mechanical Pencil

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Why it made the cut: Pilot’s Dr. Grip line was created to reduce fatigue and enhance comfort while writing. The ergonomic design behind the Dr. Grip G-Spec mechanical pencil makes writing for hours a breeze.

Specs

• Body material: Plastic
• Built-in hardness indicator: Unknown
• Sleeve size: Unknown
• Lead size: 0.5mm and 0.7mm

Pros

• Designed for comfort
• Affordable
• Shaker mechanism

Cons

• All plastic body
• Bulky
• Lightweight

If you take a lot of notes every day, then you can’t go wrong with the Pilot Dr. Grip G-Spec Shaker mechanical pencil. Its ergonomic design consists of a thick body and a rubber grip with a soft inner layer and harder outer layer that provides stability and comfort even after hours and hours of writing. 

Just like the Tombow, the Dr. Grip features a shaker mechanism that pushes the lead down the barrel when you shake the pencil up and down. You can also advance the lead the traditional way by pressing the push button on the top, so you always have the option depending on what you find most comfortable at the time. 

The Dr. Grip comes in various cool colors, including frost red and frost blue. It comes with an eraser at the top that’s refillable. The body is entirely made out of plastic, so it may not be the most durable mechanical pen, but the forgiving design of this pencil makes it very much worth it if you suffer from pain in your wrists and joints.

Best budget: Tombow MONO Graph

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Why it made the cut: The Tombow MONO graph mechanical pencil is a durable, affordable writing tool full of features you won’t have to splurge on. 

Specs

• Body material: Plastic body, metallic tip
• Built-in hardness indicator: Unknown
• Sleeve size: Unknown
• Lead size: 0.5mm and 0.7mm

Pros

• Lead lock
• Shaker mechanism
• Twist eraser
• Affordable

Cons

• Full plastic body
• No grip
• Weak clip
• Non-retractable lead sleeve

Tombow is well-known among artists and stationery enthusiasts for its brush pens and markers, and the Japanese company has also developed its own line of mechanical pencils and erasers under the brand MONO. Their signature MONO graph is a comprehensive writing and drawing tool that will give you a lot of bang for your buck. 

It’s designed with a shaker mechanism that pushes the lead out when you move the pencil rapidly up and down. This feature is very convenient, as it doesn’t require changing your grip on the pencil. If you’re too used to using your thumb to push the lead, you can use the clip as a push button. To avoid mishaps, you can also push the clip up to block the mechanism altogether. This is perfect for storage, as you won’t have to worry about lead breakage. 

Another great feature of the MONO graph is its eraser, which you can twist in and out easily. The eraser is over an inch long, and you can buy eraser refills, so you’ll always be able to fix your mistakes. 

The body of the Tombow MONO graph is almost entirely made out of plastic, which is something some people don’t like. Still, the material is durable, and the body is on the thicker side, so the pencil has a certain heft that provides control and comfort. The tip is made from a light metallic alloy, and the lead sleeve is not retractable, which may be a bother if you carry the MONO graph in your pocket.

What to consider when buying the best mechanical pencils

Not all mechanical pencils will fit your needs. Although we can’t help you become a better writer, we can help you point out what makes a great mechanical pencil. Here’s what to know when shopping for the best mechanical pencils:

Size of lead

The first and most important thing to consider before buying a mechanical pencil is the lead size. This will determine the type of lead you can load into the pencil—the lower the number, the finer the lead. Most pencils come in at least two sizes: 0.5 is the most common, followed by 0.7. The size you get will depend on what you’ll be using your pencil for. 

Keep in mind when considering leads that you’ll have the widest range of options when you choose a 0.5-size mechanical pencil. If you want to experiment with colored leads, for example, it’s unlikely that you’ll have a lot to choose from in a 0.3 size.

Material

Next, you’ll need to consider the material the pencil is made of. Full metal-bodied pencils are much more durable than ones made totally or partially out of plastic, but they tend to be more high-end, making them heavier and pricier. But that doesn’t mean you’ll compromise quality for a full plastic body. Some of these polymers are thick and durable, while others are cheap and easily breakable. Most of the time, the price point is a great sign of what you’re dealing with, but reading reviews will also help you avoid splurging on a low-quality tool.

Location

Finally, think about where your pencil will live. If you plan to keep it on your computer desk, then you’ll prefer a hexagonal-shaped body to prevent your pencil from rolling off and falling to the floor—possibly to its death or that of the lead within it. If you’ll be folding up your portable desk and carrying around your mechanical pencil in your pocket or in a pencil case, you’re better off with a tool with a retractable lead sleeve. This will avoid lead breakage and the threat of constantly getting stabbed in the thigh or your ribs or poking holes in your pencil case.

FAQs

Final thoughts on the best mechanical pencils

• Best overall: Pentel GraphGear 500
• Best for precision: rOtring 600 Black Barrel Mechanical Pencil
• Best for drawing: Koh-i-Noor Mechanical Hardtmuth Lead Holder
• Best ergonomic design: Pilot Dr. Grip G-Spec Shaker Mechanical Pencil
• Best budget: Tombow MONO Graph

It may not seem like it, but the writing or drawing tools you choose to use are our very personal decisions. They don’t necessarily have to be pricey, highly specialized mechanical pens. Depending on what kind of work you do, if you’re on the move a lot, and whether you prefer heavier or lighter tools, your perfect mechanical pencil may not even be among our picks. Still, if you’re new to the wide and varied world of writing instruments, you definitely will not go wrong by choosing any of the items on this list. 

And whenever you find something you truly like, stick with it. We recommend purchasing a couple of extra pencils to have in storage, just in case yours gets misplaced, discontinued, or you use it so much it falls apart in your hands—not a bad way to go.  

Why trust us

Popular Science started writing about technology more than 150 years ago. There was no such thing as “gadget writing” when we published our first issue in 1872, but if there was, our mission to demystify the world of innovation for everyday readers means we would have been all over it. Here in the present, PopSci is fully committed to helping readers navigate the increasingly intimidating array of devices on the market right now.

Our writers and editors have combined decades of experience covering and reviewing consumer electronics. We each have our own obsessive specialties—from high-end audio to video games to cameras and beyond—but when we’re reviewing devices outside of our immediate wheelhouses, we do our best to seek out trustworthy voices and opinions to help guide people to the very best recommendations. We know we don’t know everything, but we’re excited to live through the analysis paralysis that internet shopping can spur so readers don’t have to.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

RESIDENTIAL SECURITY CAMERAS from brands like Amazon’s Ring, Google Nest, and Arlo are everywhere. As of October 2022, nearly half of American households with broadband internet had a home security system, networked camera, video doorbell, or combination of these in place. If only keeping your property and family safe were that simple.

Studies attempting to measure the ability of residential security cameras to stop or deter crime have been inconclusive. And even if you care only about feeling safe, that potentially false sense of security comes with a high price: your privacy and that of everyone around you. To make matters worse, some of the tech companies behind these gadgets might be getting a little too cozy with law enforcement.

Your camera may not keep you safe

Risks aside, there are several practical benefits to installing a security camera. You might want to see when your packages hit your stoop and deter random passersby from grabbing them. Or maybe you live in a secluded area and want to try to ensure potential trespassers think twice before breaking into your home. 

But security cameras won’t necessarily keep you safe. Unless you’re checking their feed 24/7, these gadgets allow only for reactive responses, meaning they’re helpful only when a crime has already been committed. And their power of deterrence highly depends on the context. 

[Related: A simple DIY hoodie can fool security cameras]

A 2009 study published in the journal Evaluation Review found no significant reduction in crime rates after security cameras were installed in two low-crime areas in Manhattan, New York. On the other hand, a 2017 review published in the Journal of Scandinavian Studies in Criminology and Crime Prevention looked into seven studies focused on cities around the world and found crime rates dropped 24 to 28 percent in public streets and urban subway stations after the installation of closed-circuit television (CCTV). Still, cameras did not affect the amount of crime perpetrated in parking lots or suburban subway stations. Finally, a 40-year review published in 2019 in the journal Criminology and Public Policy found CCTV cameras do play a role in reducing property and drug-related crimes in parking and residential areas but don’t reduce the rate of violent crimes. 

It’s worth noting that these studies consider CCTV along with other types of surveillance systems. So far, no studies have specifically looked at whether self-monitored residential and commercial surveillance systems are an effective crime deterrent. 

Privacy is a steep price to pay for security

It’s important to understand that when you install a surveillance camera, you’re buying security in exchange for privacy—but not always your own. 

If the security system is outside your home, the people appearing most frequently in the footage will not be you or anybody in your household, but others in your community who have no say in whether their image is captured. The trade-off makes sense only if we assume everyone is a potential criminal. 

“We don’t know who’s a criminal until a crime has been committed, so what we’re asking people to do is to turn over their pockets continuously and prove that they’re not,” says Isadora Borges Monroy, who has a Ph.D. in political science from McGill University and is affiliated with Harvard University’s Berkman Klein Center for Internet and Society. If we physically searched everyone we encountered in our daily lives, it’d be a lot more shocking, she explains.

When you have cameras inside your home, everyone who enters is subject to surveillance. This is why Rick Osterloh, senior vice president of devices and services at Google, once advised Nest owners to let guests know that their conversations are being recorded. But it’s unclear whether this is something people do consistently, if ever. 

It may not bother you that your neighbors are recording you every time you walk your dog past their house. After all, they’re very nice. But you should ask yourself who else is watching and listening in whenever you bring hot gossip to your friend’s house. The answer could be, well, everyone. 

Tech companies are probably the biggest potential viewers. The most popular residential surveillance systems work with the cloud, meaning they stream and store footage using an internet connection and the manufacturer’s servers. Your data should technically be safe there, but there’s evidence that it’s not. The Federal Trade Commission, for example, recently ordered Ring to pay $5.8 million in refunds after the agency found the company’s employees and contractors had had unrestricted access to user footage for years. And not only that: Ring employees had also been able to “readily download any customer’s videos and then view, share, or disclose those videos at will,” the agency said.

Google went through a similar ordeal in 2019 after a Dutch news outlet revealed that some of the company’s independent contractors were listening to and transcribing Google Assistant commands. 

Then there are hackers, who have been known to extort users, holding their footage for ransom. The same FTC report that found privacy problems at Ring also noted that the company had failed to respond to multiple reports of stolen usernames and passwords. The thefts were possible due to Ring’s lax security requirements, which allowed users to employ bad passwords and made brute-force attacks easy by not limiting the number of times a person (or program) could enter incorrect login details. A 2019 Motherboard investigation revealed Ring systems even allowed multiple simultaneous logins from different countries and wouldn’t flag the number of users logged into the same account. 

And even if there’s no malicious intent, there have been a variety of other security issues involving these gadgets. In 2019, Wirecutter reported that a Google Nest home security camera allowed its former owner to access new footage even after completely resetting and selling the device.   

In all fairness, some of these problems have since been patched and there are now systems in place to eliminate some security vulnerabilities. In 2020, Ring, for one, made two-factor authentication mandatory and introduced end-to-end encryption.

“They did [it] after a tremendous amount of pushback from civil liberties groups, from angry people, from users. But you have to opt in—you have to turn it on yourself,” says Matthew Guariglia, a senior policy analyst at the Electronic Frontier Foundation working on issues of surveillance and policing.

Still, we usually learn about new privacy and security issues only after the damage has already been done. That means there’s no way to know which vulnerabilities are currently being exploited.

The internet is the new evidence room

But perhaps the most problematic unwanted audience for private security camera footage is law enforcement. 

“The boundary between consumer privacy and government surveillance has never been so thin. It’s almost nonexistent,” says Guariglia.

Ideally, law enforcement agencies like local police, the FBI, and the DEA would be able to access private data only by asking its owner to relinquish it voluntarily. Under the Fourth Amendment, US citizens have the right to deny access to their data, but law enforcement can still seize it by presenting a court-ordered warrant or subpoena. This procedure is designed to protect Americans from unreasonable searches, but there are unfortunately two ways law enforcement can get your personal information without going through this process. 

“They don’t need to go directly to the person who collects the footage—the customer whose camera it is,” Guariglia says. “They can go to the companies that store the footage.”

Tech companies have the legal authority to push back on law enforcement’s requests for user data, but if and how much they resist is not up to you. Some companies even have entire programs that make it easy for authorities to access your information. In 2022, Amazon’s Ring released footage without a warrant or the consent of the affected customers, claiming there was an emergency involving “an imminent danger of death or serious physical injury to a person.” The company did this 11 times, and all law enforcement had to do was fill out a form. Google has a similar program, but it appears to have a better track record than Ring: As of July 2022, the company claims it has not released any user footage to authorities. 

And even if you think that a potential emergency is a good enough reason for tech companies to grant access to users’ private data, law enforcement agencies have also tried to get camera manufacturers to let them use their products to monitor and police citizens’ legitimate exercise of their First Amendment rights. 

“Surveillance is not justice—this can be a tool of policing, but that doesn’t mean that the policing goal is either legitimate or that it will yield justice,” Borges Monroy says.

And if filling out a form or sending an email doesn’t work, law enforcement can just buy your data. Because, as Guariglia explains, a lot of it is just sitting on the open market. 

“Right now our legal system is the way it is, where police can buy your geolocation at any given moment through these data brokers, and they don’t need a warrant to do that,” he says.

As sketchy as that sounds, it’s not illegal, though some US senators are trying to make it so. But until there are specific regulations preventing law enforcement from purchasing user data or paying rogue employees millions of dollars for confidential information, there’s always the possibility that your camera footage will end up used against you in a court of law, without your consent. 

The irony is that we, the users, have built and funded the very system that surveils us. Such a system might not have been able to exist otherwise, because using public money to surveil citizens legally requires public hearings and debate. 

“Instead, [law enforcement has] kind of found a cheaper, more expansive shortcut to mass surveillance, which is taking advantage of the infrastructure that we are putting up ourselves, in part because society is so individualized,” Guariglia says. 

What can you do to protect your data

Reconsidering whether you need a security camera after all may be the best thing you can do to protect your privacy and that of the people around you. 

If that’s not an option, Guariglia says that before you buy a surveillance camera, you should find out whether your system of choice allows you to encrypt your data. This will prevent anyone—hackers, tech companies, or law enforcement—from accessing your data without the right credentials. You’ll also need to know whether encryption is set by default, is hard to turn on, or prevents you from using other features. 

Guariglia also recommends you find out whether the camera manufacturer requires a warrant to share your data with law enforcement, and if an overly broad warrant will do the trick. Researching a company’s track record of protecting its users and pushing back against requests for their information can also be useful. 

[Related: Tips for keeping your security cameras secure]

Beyond that, Borges Monroy recommends engaging in long-term action that could result in better regulations that will protect our privacy. 

“People need to be thinking of themselves as citizens, not as consumers,” she says. “Because these are really big problems, we tend to think about them as something that has to be done at a federal level. But there’s a lot to be done at a local level too. Especially when you’re thinking about policing.”

So let elected officials know what you think, and maybe run for office yourself. At the very least, vote. Supporting candidates who have your best interests at heart when it comes to privacy—at all levels of government—is a good way to make a difference. This will also get us closer to ensuring that we aren’t all constantly racing to catch up with technology, but are instead setting the pace so it serves us, not the other way around. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: Home security cameras guarantee surveillance, not safety appeared first on Popular Science.

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Facebook is still popular, with around 3 billion users logging in each month, but there’s no doubt some are there for a single purpose: to delete their account.

If you’ve decided you can no longer be associated with a platform that has struggled to effectively manage hate speech and misinformation, are just learning about whistleblower Frances Haugen’s scorching 2021 testimony before a Senate subcommittee, or simply have no use for the social network anymore, it’s fairly easy to back up your data and leave Facebook behind.

When you do, you’ll also lose access to Messenger, but not Meta’s other apps. If you want to deactivate Instagram or delete WhatsApp, you’ll have to do so separately. And if you’ve linked Facebook to any other services, you won’t get locked out forever, but you’ll need to use a different login method the next time you open them up.

Consider downloading all your Facebook data first

Before you pull the plug, you may want to save all the data you’ve amassed on the platform throughout the years. Of course, you can skip this and immediately delete your Facebook account (steps below), but we think it’s better to download everything and not need it than to trash it all and wish you hadn’t. You can do this from the mobile app or a web browser.

Facebook knows a lot about you, so you won’t get your data immediately—it may be several days before the file or files are ready for you. Once it’s done, though, Facebook will let you know via email.

It’s a time-sensitive matter too: The files are large, so Facebook will only hang onto them for a few days before they delete them. If the download window closes on you, you’ll have to start the process again.

Download your Facebook data from a browser

1. From your Facebook profile, click your profile picture in the top right corner of the screen, then hit Settings & privacy, followed by Settings. This should bring you directly to Your Facebook information, where you’ll see several options.

2. Find Download profile information, then click View to its right. This will bring you to a page where you can customize exactly how much you actually want to save.

3. Select a file format: HTML or JSON. The latter is better if you want to transfer your data somewhere else.

4. Use the dropdown menu under Media quality to decide if you want to save photos and videos at High, Medium, or Low quality. Higher-quality media will increase the size of the final data file.

5. Choose a date range. You can select one of Facebook’s preset time periods (like Last week and Last year), but if you have a specific range in mind you can pick Custom to set your own Start date and End date. If you want to download everything, click All time.

Download your data from the Facebook app

1. Tap Menu in the bottom right, then the cog icon in the top right to open Settings & privacy.

2. Scroll down to Your information and tap Download your information.

3. You’ll see a long list of data categories, including Messenger conversations, pages you’ve liked, posts, Facebook Marketplace data, login information, and your interactions with ads. Everything will be selected by default, but you can tap an item to deselect it and omit it from the final data file.

4. Choose a date range. You only have two options here: All of my data and Date range. If you don’t want to save everything, tap the latter option, then touch the dates that appear to set beginning and end dates for the time period you want.

How to delete your Facebook account on a mobile device or a computer

Whether you’ve downloaded your data and safely stored it on a hard drive or skipped straight here to erase all memory of your time on the social network, it’s time to delete your Facebook account. The process is essentially the same whether you’re using a web browser or the mobile app.

1. Open Facebook’s settings. This is the only step that’s substantially different whether you use a browser or the app.

• From a browser: Go to your Facebook profile, click your profile picture in the top right, then Settings & privacy, followed by Settings.
• From the app: Tap Menu in the bottom right, then the cog icon in the top right to open Settings & privacy.

2. Look for the Meta Accounts Center. On the web, it’s in the left-hand sidebar, and in the app it’s at the top of the page. Hit See more in Accounts Center.

3. Click Personal details, then Account ownership and control.

4. Choose Deactivation or deletion.

5. Select your Facebook account from the list of Meta accounts that appears.

6. Click Delete account. Doing so won’t immediately delete your Facebook account, but it’ll start the process. Deletion is permanent, though, and you won’t be able to get any of your Facebook data or Messenger messages back once it’s done. That said, your information will remain in Facebook’s possession (but invisible to the public) for at least 30 days. During this time you can change your mind, log into Facebook, and hit Cancel deletion to recover your account. After that grace period, it’ll all disappear into the internet ether.

• Note: Your other option here is Deactivate account, which will allow you to temporarily remove your Facebook account from public view. The difference between this and deleting your account is that no one will be able to see your name, photos, and most of the things you’ve shared, but you’ll still be able to use Messenger. It’s also not permanent, so you can undo deactivation whenever you want.

7. Whether you chose to deactivate or delete your Facebook account, click Continue. Facebook may ask you to click through several other dialog boxes (like reminding you that deactivating or deleting your account will also shut down any pages you run) and will ask for your password one more time before it makes everything disappear.

How to delete your Facebook account without a password

As you may have noticed, you need your password to delete your Facebook account. But if you’ve forgotten it or your account has been compromised, there are some workarounds you can try.

Recover or reset your password

1. From the Facebook login page on the web or in the app, click Forgot password?.

2. Enter the email or phone number associated with the account and hit Search.

3. You may see a partially-hidden email address or other information on the next screen (like R*********@g****.com), and that may help you remember your login information. If not, click Try another way.

4. Facebook will offer you several password reset options, and they’ll vary depending on what other services you use. Choose the one that works best for you, and hit Continue to begin the reset process.

Report your account as fake

As a last-ditch attempt to remove your account without any login information, you can report it as fake. There’s no guarantee this will work, but you can try. And it goes without saying that you should not maliciously report an account you don’t like in the hope that it’ll be deleted. You’re better than that.

You will have to be logged into Facebook to file a report, though, so you’ll need to either create a new account to find and report your old account, or team up with a friend or family member to report it from their account. If you can’t do any of these, Facebook has an online form that will let you report an imposter account without logging in. Otherwise, follow these steps:

1. While logged into Facebook, go to the Facebook profile you want to report (yours, in this case).

2. Click the three dots under the cover photo. If you’re using a web browser, choose Find support or report; if you’re in the app, tap Report profile.

3. Select the problem you have with the account. There are several options here, but you’ll probably want to choose Pretending to be someone. It’s you, but the account is pretending to be someone who wants to be on Facebook, after all.

4. Choose Me, and Facebook will ask if the account is violating the social network’s community standards. You can click See Community Standards to read up on them, or just hit Submit to report the account. If all goes well, Facebook will remove it from the site.

This story has been updated. It was originally published in 2021.

The post How to delete your Facebook account and take your data with you appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Over the last three years, more and more people have discovered the multi-sensory pleasure of typing on a mechanical keyboard. What once was a niche hobby that took place in remote message boards online has become a multibillion-dollar business. 

This means you don’t have to be a full-on enthusiast to have a better typing or gaming experience. Brands like MONOKEI have come out with new keyboards that appeal to newcomers without frightening them with tons of customizations. And it works—the Standard provides an elevated wireless typing experience, beautiful aesthetics, and a long battery life for an accessible price. Users might find in MONOKEI’s first fully built board what they were missing from those cheap keyboard/mouse bundles. More experienced users may find themselves wanting a little more. 

SEE IT

Overview

• The Standard is MONOKEI’s attempt to democratize the mechanical keyboard and make it more accessible to those without the know-how to build their own or the money to splurge on a custom-made device. 
  
• This keyboard is all about simplicity—its design is sleek and clean, making it a perfect choice for those who prioritize desktop aesthetics as much as performance. 
  
• The Standard’s doubleshot PBT keycaps provide a luxurious typing experience that lacks opportunity for customization.

Pros

• Good price ($110) for an entry-level mechanical keyboard
• Beautiful design in four colors
• Great battery life
• Delicious typing sound 
• Textured and wear-resistant keycaps
• Hot-swappable
• Compatible with USB-C
• Supports all major operating systems and multiple-device connections (up to four)

Cons

• No background light
• Not compatible with keymapping apps like VIA
• Extremely lightweight body can inhibit overall feel
• Innovative but somewhat confusing custom-designed legends

Verdict

MONOKEI’s Standard is exactly what it was designed to be: an entry-level mechanical keyboard that provides just enough customization possibilities for beginners or more casual keyboard enthusiasts. If your laptop’s membrane keyboard is below you, but you’re not ready to find out how to lube your stabilizers, the Standard is a perfect way to test the waters. 

The MONOKEI’s design

The first thing that strikes you about MONOKEI’s Standard is its design. Its collection of high and angular keys can remind you of a classic IBM Model M keyboard, but the overall effect doesn’t feel vintage at all. 

The Standard is a TKL or 80-percent-sized device (it doesn’t include a number pad) that comes in four color combinations: Classic White (white body and keycaps), Blush Pink (pink body, white keycaps), Suave Blue (deep blue body, white keycaps), and Dream Lilac (purple body, white keycaps). All the versions of the Standard come with three sets of different colored accent keys you can easily swap to match your aesthetics and operating system as soon as you open the box. If the minimalistic white keycaps are not your thing, you can also buy one of MONOKEI’s amazing and colorful keycap sets. 

Other than the fun array of colors it comes in, the Standard stands out for its legends (the characters printed on the keys), which were designed especially for this keyboard by MONOKEI. You’ll see some understandable but noticeable differences in the Control and Command keys, for example, but things start getting a bit weird with the Fn key and the entire set of buttons above the arrows on the right. Those keys are outfitted with entirely new legends—some are easy to figure out, others not so much. 

The caps feel excellent to the touch. They’re the company’s own Series 1 doubleshot PBT keycaps, which have a textured finish that promises to be resistant to your corrosive and oily digits. They also sound great against the board’s polycarbonate plate. 

The Standard’s case might be its least likable feature. The ABS plastic enclosure is durable enough, but it feels cheap and lacks sturdiness. On the other hand, this also makes the keyboard lightweight, which might be exactly what you want if you plan on constantly changing locations. However, our biggest complaint with the Standard’s case is its typing angle, which, combined with tall keys, forces your wrists to bend to a somewhat uncomfortable degree. You can easily solve this problem with a wrist rest, but for a keyboard that puts so much emphasis on aesthetics, it doesn’t make a lot of sense to compromise the keyboard’s look with an external accessory that might not do it justice. 

MONOKEI put a lot of thought into the acoustics of the Standard, which features a polycarbonate plate and silencing foams. That, paired up with Cherry MX switches in your choice of reds, silent reds, and browns, results in typing sounds that are pleasant and crisp. 

The MONOKEI’s performance 

Before TikTok exploded with ASMR videos of people typing on mechanical keyboards, these devices had found a loyal audience in gamers, who usually appreciate gadgets with RBG lights to fit their aesthetic. This is probably why we’ve come to expect mechanical keyboards to have some RBG feature—even if they’re not marketed for gaming.

But the Standard doesn’t have any of that—no customizable RBG lights, nor even a simple white backlight to use your keyboard in the dark. In fact, the only light you’ll find on the Standard is a set of two tiny dots that briefly light up when you turn it on, pair it, or need to plug it in. This might be a dealbreaker for you, but it gives the Standard a 30-day battery life when used over Bluetooth. And if you prefer your peripherals to be plugged, this device has a beautiful USB-C nylon-wrapped cable that matches the colors of your keyboard so that it won’t ruin your desktop aesthetic. 

So, who should buy the MONOKEI Standard Keyboard?

The Standard is also not compatible with VIA or other similar programs out there. This means that you won’t be able to add layers to your keymap or create personalized shortcuts like with other fully customizable keyboards. If you’re looking for a truly unique experience or you’re a power user that relies on specific key combos to control your machine, maybe MONOKEI’s first fully assembled keyboard is not for you. If, on the other hand, you’re just searching for ASMR-worth typing sounds and a nice-looking addition to your desktop setup, the Standard is a great choice, and possibly a gateway to more fine-tuned peripheral experiences in the future. 

The post MONOKEI Standard keyboard review: A gateway to mechanical obsession appeared first on Popular Science.

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Whether you’re dead-set on your decision or still a little unsure, some part of you is urging you to cancel Amazon Prime. You have your reasons. The good news is that getting rid of your subscription is quick and easy… unless Amazon convinces you otherwise along the way.

You can cancel your Prime membership at any time, and don’t worry: you’ll still get to keep your Amazon account. Prime is just the online retailer’s subscription program, so even if you ditch it you’ll still be able to buy stuff on the site—you just won’t have access to Prime deals or expedited free shipping. And while you won’t get a refund for canceling early (before your next billing date), Prime’s benefits won’t disappear until that date arrives.

The only time you won’t have to pay anything is if you’re just testing the program out for 30 days to see how you like it. In that case, you can cancel the Amazon Prime free trial before it ends, and your card will be spared any charges.

How to cancel Amazon Prime 

The cancelation process works exactly the same whether you’re trying to end a monthly, yearly, or free trial subscription. Canceling Prime will also shut off your access to benefits like Prime Video and Amazon Music—you can’t say goodbye to them individually. To start, click Accounts & Lists in the upper right corner of the Amazon website to manage your Prime membership. Once you’re there, follow these steps:

1. Click on the Prime tile—it’s the third one in the first row.

2. Amazon really, really won’t want you to cancel Prime, so it’ll try its best to remind you of all the benefits of having a subscription. Ignore all that and focus on the banner at the top of the screen, where you’ll click on Manage membership, the third option to the right.

3. Go to the bottom of the dropdown menu and click End membership. 

[Related: Canceling Prime just got easier for Amazon customers in the EU]

4. Again, Amazon will remind you of everything you’ll be losing if you leave, but you are stronger, so scroll down and choose Continue to cancel. 

• Note: If you start doubting whether you actually want to cancel Amazon Prime, this page also allows you to change plans (click Prime plan offers) or procrastinate (click Remind me later).

5. The next screen will display a summary of your membership, including what you’re paying, how often, and when your next payment is due. You have two options here: Cancel on renewal and Pause on renewal. The first one is selected by default, so if that’s what you want, confirm it by clicking the yellow button that says End on [your next billing date].

If second thoughts keep haunting you, select Pause on renewal and confirm your choice. Pausing is similar to canceling your Prime membership in that you won’t have to pay anything until you come back, which you can do whenever you want. There are some differences, though. For one, if you cancel, you’ll lose your Prime Video watchlist, as well as any household members you might have added. If you’ve stored any pics on Amazon Photos or created any playlists on Amazon Music, you’ll also lose those. If you pause your membership, however, your personalized settings and content will be waiting there for you when you come back. 

New member? Try a monthly plan first

A 30-day free trial may not be enough to know how much you’ll actually use a Prime membership. It’s fresh and new, so you may be excited about all the benefits, exclusive deals, and fast free shipping, so you’ll likely use it more. 

[Related: Amazon tricked millions into renewing Prime subscriptions, FTC lawsuit claims]

If you’ve never had a Prime membership, start by signing up for a monthly subscription so you can find out if you really get a lot out of it. In the long run, paying month-to-month is slightly less convenient than paying for an entire year upfront, but you can use that time to experiment and see if Prime is just something that’s nice to have, or if it’s something you just cannot live without.

The post How to cancel Amazon Prime in 5 easy steps appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

THERE’S A LOT you need to be careful about if you want to prevent tech companies, governments, and hackers from getting hold of your information. So much, in fact, that it can be tempting to just delete all your accounts, ditch your smartphone, and go off the grid.  

If you’ve ever considered the possibility of going analog, you’re not alone. But is that even possible in our highly interconnected age? Depending on your lifestyle, your location, and how much money you have, it can be. What it’s not, though, is convenient. In fact, going analog can be so inconvenient that it’s totally impracticable.  

As a thought experiment, though, let’s go over analog living in increments: from giving up your social media platforms to buying stuff only in person, with cash. You may find you can’t forgo technology enough to even live a day of analog life, and that’s OK. It doesn’t speak ill of you as a person, but says a lot about us as a society and how convenience doesn’t come for free. 

Level 1: The “easy” out

Don’t be deceived by the name: Going analog at any level isn’t just about using less technology, it’s akin to swimming upstream. This is because a lot of experiences today, like banking, are built around you downloading an app and managing stuff directly from your phone.  

At the most basic level of going analog, the main goal is to cut back on your reliance on the internet. Although this is the easiest version of an inherently difficult task, it will cost you some money, and some of the experiences you’re used to—like having platforms that fit your device’s screen—may be gone for good.

Replace mainstream services with privacy-focused ones

Let’s start simple: Choose services and platforms that put your privacy first. This is as easy as using Firefox, Opera, or Brave as your default browser, dropping your Outlook account for a ProtonMail inbox, and searching the web with DuckDuckGo instead of Google. If you have easy access to a public library near you, you can also limit your online activity to the computers you find there. 

[Related: Proton Mail tips that might convince you to ditch Gmail]

Switching to a more private browser won’t be much trouble beyond the time it takes you to learn the ropes of the new program. Switching to ProtonMail, on the other hand, may cost you money. Free accounts there only have 1GB of storage, which—depending on how many messages you get or the types of files you receive—might fill up pretty quickly. From then on, you’ll have to pay for more space, starting at $4 a month for 15GB.

Finally, changing search engines might be a bit of a headache. There are many to choose from, but there’s a reason Google is the most popular one: It’s generally more reliable than its competitors. If you’ve mostly used the big G to find stuff online, switching to DuckDuckGo might be a substantial change. You might have to spend more time looking for what you need, but it’s still a perfectly usable tool with a known commitment to protecting your data. DuckDuckGo’s privacy policy states that it doesn’t track users, and although it once made an exception for Microsoft trackers (this has been corrected), the browser has historically committed fewer privacy violations than other tech companies.  

Ditch your smartphone

Getting a basic phone (or a “dumbphone” as it’s sometimes called) won’t just immediately reduce your screen time but will also cut back your internet use overall. These devices have limited or no app support, but most have built-in browsers you can use to go online if you need to. Be warned, though: Your user experience will probably suffer as you run into less-than-optimized mobile sites and even usability restrictions.    

If you’re old enough, you probably have a basic phone lying around somewhere, but you can also get one manufactured in this decade. Basic phones are having a moment, and brands like Nokia are bringing classic models back for as little as $50. If you’re looking for something with absolutely no app support, like the Light Phone 2, you can find those for sale online or in stores as “minimalist phones.”

Redirect your communications

Getting a basic phone will limit your communications, as most dedicated messaging platforms, including WhatsApp, Signal, and Telegram, require you to use their mobile app (and therefore a smartphone). A potential workaround is to use Apple’s Messages. This platform won’t work on a basic phone, but it’ll allow you to seamlessly communicate with iPhone-wielding people from a Mac or iPad, which we’re not taking away just yet. 

If you don’t have an Apple device, you’ll have limited options as to what types of communication you can use. You will have to stick to phone calls, emails, and SMS text messages, the last of which is, unfortunately, not the most private form of communication. You can also communicate on social media platforms (if you keep any), but know that end-to-end encryption and other privacy features like self-destructing messages are usually not available, turned off by default, or not an option for browsers. So use these services with caution, or, better yet, avoid them altogether.  

Drop optional platforms

The broadest piece of this first level of analog living requires giving up everything that is not essential or can be replaced with a physical solution or less invasive alternatives. So drop all streaming platforms and digital services—Grubhub, Instacart, Disney Plus, Spotify, Hulu, Amazon Prime… you get the gist. You want to prevent these apps from living on your devices along with the rest of your data, gathering information about what and how you live your life. 

To watch movies and TV shows, you’ll have to either nourish your own personal video collection or subscribe to a DVD delivery service. Though you’ll still be revealing what you watch, these services won’t get any specific data on how you consume the movies and TV shows you rent, and you can use a P.O. box to avoid giving up information about your exact location. There are a number of options out there, such as CafeDVD and GameFly.  

When it comes to other media, like newspapers and magazines, you’ll need to change your subscription to get a physical copy. Mind you, these tend to be more expensive and are sometimes not even an option—a lot of publications now live exclusively online. Getting your news from the paper, though, comes with the caveat that you’ll always be late to breaking news. You can counteract this delay with AM/FM radio, which can be particularly useful during national or local emergencies. 

All social media also has to go, but you can make exceptions for any platforms you use for business or direct communication with people abroad. Texting and making calls to other countries is usually more expensive, and you’ll really want to have an alternative to emails and physical letters if you have a large community abroad.  

When it comes to storage, the cloud should also go out the window. You can back up your devices on hard drives, though this method comes with caveats. For starters, if you have a lot of files (or a few incredibly hefty ones), you may have to splurge on high-capacity hard drives, which are around $50 for 1 terabyte—1,000GB. You’ll also have to make a habit of transferring your data to at least two drives and keeping it organized, and you always run the risk of your hard drives breaking, malfunctioning, or getting lost or stolen. Encryption can help prevent people from getting a look at your lost or stolen data, but it won’t help you get it back.

Level 2: The impractical life

Dumping your smartphone is only the beginning. To make your life more analog, you’ll need to further disconnect from the internet and, hopefully, cut ties with the five biggest tech companies in the world: Google, Apple, Meta, Microsoft, and Amazon, also known as GAMMA. This will help you shrink your online presence, which will mean you generate a lot less data.

Cut ties with GAMMA

In general, GAMMA doesn’t have the best track record when it comes to privacy, so ending your relationship with them is a no-brainer if you want to protect your data by going analog. 

These companies are also everywhere on the web and in the real world, so giving them up will be more than complicated—you’ll be left out of a vast swath of platforms and experiences. For example, if you’re a gamer, you won’t be able to use Twitch, as it’s owned by Amazon, and if you’ve built a community on Google-owned YouTube, you’ll have to give that up as well. Avoiding GAMMA will require you to identify all platforms these companies own. This may require you to do research. 

Perhaps the hardest tie to cut with a GAMMA company involves switching your computer’s operating system, as most people use either Windows or macOS. For some, learning an entirely new operating system like Linux, which is designed for fairly tech-savvy users, is too much trouble. Instead, you can just set up your computer without linking it to a Microsoft or Apple account. On a PC, skipping this step is not easy, but it’s possible if you use some workarounds. Keep in mind that Windows 10 might put up more of a fight than Windows 11. You can also set up a Mac computer without an AppleID account, but your experience will be limited—your Apple devices won’t communicate with each other, and you won’t be able to download apps or use the company’s other services, like Apple News, Messages, and Games Center. 

Limit your access to the internet as much as possible

At this level, your access to the internet should be strictly limited to communications and activities that don’t have an analog equivalent. If you want to talk to a friend, give them a call; if you don’t want to talk, use email, or—better yet—a letter. Your browsing should always occur on a secure browser, with a VPN, and you should always practice good cookie etiquette. 

Everything you can replace with an analog option should be replaced. If you have access to a P.O. box and prepaid debit cards, you might be able to keep shopping online. Otherwise, you’ll have to limit your spending to in-person purchases only, ideally using cash. Banking should also be done in person at your local branch. Keep in mind that some bank locations have limited capabilities, so you may have to go to a specific one if you need to, say, deposit a check from another bank. That particular location may not be anywhere near you.

Depending on where you live and whether you have enough time and money, dropping online shopping and running errands in person will limit the type of products and services you have access to—sometimes to a truly impractical level. 

Get your content from traditional sources

Your days of doomscrolling Twitter (or whatever other platform you’re on) are over. At this level of the analog life, you’ll get your news and information from AM/FM radio, newspapers, and magazines—actual physical copies you ideally buy at a local store so you don’t have to disclose your payment information and address to publishers and distributors. This also applies to cable TV, which is why at this level you may enjoy only over-the-air broadcasts. Just make sure you’re using a device with no connection to the internet with a NextGenTV tuner—these are built into most newer TV models on the market. 

[Related: Now is the perfect time to get an HD TV antenna]

You’ll be able to catch movies and shows on TV as in the days before streaming services: on a specific day and time. You can check listings online or subscribe to TV Guide, but since we’re trying to avoid both of those alternatives, you’ll be better off settling for whatever’s on when you’re in front of the TV. For on-demand content, you’ll need to opt for physical formats: CDs, DVDs, and BluRays. If you don’t have a way to play these, you’ll have to spend a few bucks to get the right devices. 

An offline existence is not possible for everybody

We could go on to add another level of analog life in which you live entirely off the grid, find refuge in a cabin in the middle of nowhere, grow your own food, and hope that you don’t ever have the need for money or medical attention. 

But the truth is that the internet and big tech companies have made much of our lives so convenient that trying to do simple things like buying a plane ticket or even booking a doctor’s appointment become terribly inconvenient if you don’t want to download an app or create an online account. 

But this convenience is not free. In today’s world, opting out of your data being collected and stored at any level means opting out of the internet, and that comes at a cost. You might be able to pay that price in actual money or choose more expensive but more private services. But money is not the only cost of privacy: You’ll also have to spend time and effort—maybe driving for hours to buy a product you could’ve ordered online and received at home through the mail. 

Needless to say, those who don’t have an excess of money, time, and the ability to make an effort—people who work long hours, have families, have disabilities or physical limitations, or live paycheck to paycheck—are often forced to pay for that necessary convenience with their data.

So no—a fully analog life is not a possibility for everybody. It’s a privilege.

Read more PopSci+ stories.

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Whether it’s a science project for your kids or a tool to clean your keyboard, you should learn how to make slime. It’s quick, fun, and easy, no matter what you use the sticky substance for. 

For this basic slime recipe, you’ll only need ingredients you probably already have at home, and the result will be a mesmerizing goo that can be relaxing, useful, or both. 

How to make slime

1. Mix the glue and half the water. Pour a half-cup of water into a measuring cup and add the glue. Stir until it’s completely mixed. 

• Pro tip: If you want to make a bigger or smaller batch, you can adjust the quantities of the glue and water you use in this step as long as you keep a 1:1 ratio between the two.

2. (Optional) Add food coloring. If you’re using food coloring, how much you use will depend on how bright you want your slime to be. If you want a color that truly pops, you’ll need to add at least five drops of food coloring. You can combine as many hues as you want, but make sure to stir thoroughly after every drop so you don’t end up with a brownish or greyish goo—unless that’s what you’re going for. As a reference, we used three drops of food coloring to achieve the minty green slime pictured above. 

Once you’re happy with the color, stir again to make sure the mix is homogeneous. 

[Related: How to make your own bath bombs]

3. Make your borax solution. Add the borax to the remaining half-cup of water and stir until the white powder is fully dissolved. This will happen more easily in warm water, but cold water will do just fine—it’ll just require some extra stirring. 

• Pro tip: A good way to ensure the borax is fully dissolved is to stir and wait a couple of seconds. If you still see borax crystals gathering at the bottom of your container, keep stirring.
  

4. Gradually add the borax solution to the glue mix while you stir. Do this in multiple small pours, or one spoonful at a time. You’ll notice the texture of the glue will immediately change and become sticky and slime-like, and you should only add more of the borax solution if there’s still any glue mix left. You might not need to use all of it. You’re done when the glue becomes one big blob.  

• Note: The proportions in this recipe should get you to the right texture, but if some of the glue mix still hasn’t turned into slime after you’ve combined everything, you can make more borax solution.

5. Drop your slime on a clean surface, knead, and enjoy. Your newly born slime will require some kneading before it reaches a uniform texture. At first, the goo might stick to your hands, but it should retain its integrity after you play with it for a couple of seconds. 

6. (Optional) Make your slime last longer. Slime has a limited life span depending on the temperature and humidity, and it’ll become brittle and less elastic in hot, dry weather. If you want to prolong the life of your slime, you can store it in a cool place inside an airtight container or zip-top bag. Spraying some water on it before you store it will also help prevent it from drying out. 

The post The easiest way to make slime appeared first on Popular Science.

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WhatsApp’s new Privacy Checkup menu gives you the ability to block unknown callers, but that’s not the only way it will protect your one-on-one conversations and thriving group chats.

The messaging app has come a long way in terms of privacy and security, and you’ll find lots of options within the new menu. Not bad for a service that once risked a mass exodus after its parent company, Meta, suggested it’d share users’ information with Facebook and Instagram. 

We can’t cover everything Privacy Checkup has to offer, but these are our favorite features—you should turn them on if you haven’t already. You can access this new menu on Android by tapping the three dots in the top right corner of the screen, choosing Settings, then Privacy. The steps are similar on iOS, but you’ll start with Settings in the bottom right corner of your screen, then tap Privacy. No matter the OS, you’ll see a Privacy Checkup banner at the top of the screen—tap it to start. 

Block unknown callers on WhatsApp

The most exciting feature on the Privacy Checkup menu is the new ability to automatically block calls from unknown numbers. This was a serious concern in India (WhatsApp’s biggest market), where users received a flood of spam calls that was so severe the Indian government got involved. 

[Related: 7 secure messaging apps you should be using]

On the Privacy Checkup menu, set up this feature by tapping Choose who can contact you, then Silence Unknown Callers. The next screen will only have one switch, which you can toggle on to activate the feature. 

Afterward, calls from numbers that are not saved to your contact list will not go through, but you’ll still be able to see them in WhatsApp’s Calls tab. That way, if you recognize a number later on, you’ll still be able to call them back or save it to your contacts. 

Lock up WhatsApp using your biometrics

If your entire household knows your passcode and you want to add an extra layer of security to your chats, this is the way to do it. WhatsApp will use whatever biometrics you’ve already set up with your phone. This means you can use your face or fingerprint, depending on your device’s ability to support them.

From the Privacy Checkup menu, go to Add More Protection to Your Account and choose Unlock with biometric or Screen Lock. To activate the feature, toggle on the switch on the next screen. As soon as you do, WhatsApp will let you decide how the lock will work. 

The first thing you’ll need to set up is when you want the app to lock itself. You can have it verify your identity as soon as you change apps or your phone locks itself (choose Immediately), or you can opt for a one- or 30-minute grace period where the app will remain unlocked. Keep in mind that if you choose anything other than “immediately,” WhatsApp will remain accessible for that amount of time, even if you lock your phone.

Encrypt your backup 

WhatsApp used to be vulnerable to governments accessing its users’ data. This is because the app uses Google Drive and iCloud to save backups, giving Google and Apple the last say on whether a third party can see this information. Not ideal. 

The solution was not to change where users saved their backups but to give them the ability to encrypt their data. That way no one, not even Meta, could decipher it. However, this feature is not on by default, so you’ll need to dive into the settings to activate it. 

[Related: 4 reasons you should be using WhatsApp Web]

From the Privacy Checkup menu, choose Add More Privacy to Your Chats and tap End-to-end Encrypted Backups. On the next screen, you’ll find more information about this feature, including the current size of your WhatsApp backup. Tap Turn on to continue.

The next step is to set up an encryption key that will allow you to access your data in the future. There are two methods you can use: creating a password or using a 64-digit encryption key. 

Tap Create a password and follow the steps to do just that. If you’re not using a password manager (you definitely should, by the way), you may want to opt for a 64-digit passkey provided by WhatsApp. Don’t worry—this is not a single-line, seemingly endless number you’ll have to scribble on a sticky note somewhere. It’s 16 groups of four characters each (numbers and letters) that you can screenshot and save somewhere safe. You’ll still need to input the key manually, but if you’re the kind of person that rotates the same three passwords over and over, this can be a safer solution. Tap Use a 64-digit encryption key to have WhatsApp show you the code. Once you’ve written it down or screenshotted it, tap I have my 64-digit encryption key and you’ll be good to go.

A big warning: regardless of the method you choose, make sure you have your password or encryption key backed up somewhere safe. If you lose it and later want to set up shop on a new device, your ability to access your backup will depend on whether you still have access to WhatsApp. If that’s the case, you can go into the app and turn off backup encryption. But if, for example, you get a new phone because you lost yours, or you delete the app before setting it up somewhere else, you’ll lose everything and will need to start fresh. Yes, that includes your precious sticker collection. 

It sounds scary, but these and the rest of the privacy and security features above are there to protect you and your data. Take a look around the Privacy Checkup menu and see what else you can find that might be useful to you. Then go poke around in the settings of your other apps, and make these checkups a habit.

The post Blocking unknown callers and other WhatsApp privacy features you should turn on right now appeared first on Popular Science.

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In the series I Made a Big Mistake, PopSci explores mishaps and misunderstandings, in all their shame and glory.

Sooner or later, everybody makes the painful mistake of getting a sunburn. Maybe you thought your dark skin wasn’t sensitive to UV rays, or you forgot to put on sunscreen altogether. It’s OK, these things happen.

Whatever the reason, you need to treat a sunburn quickly, especially if you’re outside—it can go from mildly annoying to painfully severe if you don’t pay attention.

How to treat a sunburn

A sunburn kills your skin cells, so there’s technically no way to heal the damage. All you can do is treat it by preventing further harm and managing symptoms while your skin is busy churning out new, healthy cells.

1. Get out of the sun

If you’re still exposed to the sun, you need to reduce further damage. This means seeking shade, covering your skin with tightly woven clothing, or better yet, going inside. 

2. Soothe the area with cool water and moisturizer

Just like a burn from a hot beverage or plate, one from the sun’s rays traps warmth in the skin. That means a key part of effective sunburn treatment is releasing that heat. Meghan Feely, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, recommends gently applying a cool compress for 15-minute intervals throughout the rest of that day or taking a cool shower or bath. What is cool to you will depend on the burn and how sensitive you are, so make sure to test the water by allowing some of the injured skin to briefly come into contact with it.

[Related: Your summer guide to sunscreen, from SPF to not-so-magic pills]

To make your bath more soothing, you can add some colloidal (or very finely ground) oatmeal. Anne Chapas, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City and director at UnionDerm, says oatmeal’s anti-inflammatory properties have been well-studied. If you don’t have any, cornstarch has similar benefits, and baking soda may help as well.

Although there are no controlled trials around using baking soda on sunburns, Jenni Holman, a board-certified dermatologist and member of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), says people (dermatologists included) commonly recommend the kitchen staple to soothe inflammation and decrease pain associated with sunburn. This may be because the powder has antimicrobial properties, and its anti-inflammatory benefits might stem from its ability to bring the pH of sunburned skin back closer to baseline, she explains. 

If you want to try, she suggests adding 2 ounces of baking soda to a cool bath.

After showering or bathing, it’s important not to pat your skin completely dry, says Feely. A sunburn can dehydrate your outer layer, and leaving some water in place allows your epidermis to reabsorb some of the H₂O it lost as a result of that burning heat.

While your skin is still damp, apply a moisturizer to further trap that water so your cells can reabsorb it. There are countless products on the market, and some even claim to specifically care for burned skin. Feely says that any moisturizers that contain vitamins C and E will work best. These have antioxidants that help the skin heal, minimizing the amount of flaking that will ensue.

Moisturizers containing aloe vera—or even just a gel form of the plant’s juice—are often touted as the very best thing for a sunburn. Feely says aloe is commonly used to heal and hydrate skin and decrease inflammation, and it contains certain skin-healing proteins that can help prevent infection.

However, the superior sunburn-healing benefit of aloe vera versus other moisturizers isn’t clear. Some studies show that it does provide a statistically significant advantage. But other research doesn’t demonstrate this same boost. Ultimately, very few large-scale studies of sunburn treatments include a comparison between aloe vera and a placebo.

Some moisturizers contain occlusives like petroleum jelly (petrolatum) or ceramides, but their use is a heated subject among skin experts. Chapas recommends these ingredients, as their sole purpose is to trap moisture and keep it close to the skin. On the other hand, Feely says petroleum-based options will trap heat along with moisture, making it far more difficult to release. Holman, meanwhile, recommends these products only in the late stages of a sunburn, when the skin has already started to peel. 

Patch testing is probably the best way to know if you can benefit from a moisturizer with occlusives. Apply the product to a quarter-sized area of burned skin and wait for 10 to 20 minutes. If you get a heightened burning sensation on that spot, wash the product off carefully and use a moisturizer with a lighter gel or water-based formulation.

Finally, for extra soothing power, place your moisturizer in the fridge between uses—not the freezer. And stay away from ice packs, as the extreme change in temperature can result in even more pain. 

3. Fight the pain with over-the-counter medicine

A sunburn on a sensitive patch of skin or an area that’s constantly stretching, like the back of your knees, usually results in a lot of pain. Like, a lot. If the cool showers and moisturizer are not helping as much as you’d like, it’s time to get reinforcements. 

The AAD recommends starting with simple over-the-counter medications, like ibuprofen or acetaminophen. Take as instructed on the packaging to reduce swelling, redness, and inflammation. You can also try topical creams that contain hydrocortisone, but Feely recommends staying away from any products with benzocaine or active ingredients ending in -caine. These ingredients, which are commonly used to reduce pain and discomfort from bug bites, can be highly irritative.   

4. Drink lots of water

As a response to sunburn, your body will draw fluid to the surface of your skin and away from the rest of your organs, which the AAD says can eventually result in dehydration. Drinking water or replenishing fluids with sports drinks can help prevent that.

5. Leave your blisters alone

If you happen to have a second-degree sunburn, you’re going to get blisters, which you should treat in a similar way as the blisters you get when wearing the wrong shoes: leaving them alone.  

In short, blisters protect damaged skin from infection. When you pop them, you risk bacteria and other pathogens getting on or in the injury. All you can do is keep the blistered area clean with mild soap (fragrance-free and ideally with moisturizing properties) and water in case one of your blisters ruptures. If that happens, you can clean the area with soap and water, apply an antibiotic ointment, and cover the wound with a non-adhesive bandage. 

Only drain blisters sparingly, as you don’t want to elevate your risk of infection. If your blisters are particularly big or are in sensitive areas, like on your face, go to a doctor. 

6. Let peeling happen naturally 

A week or so after your sunburn, your skin will start peeling. This means your body has created new tissue and is getting rid of dead cells. This process can be a bit gruesome to the eyes, and it can come with some itching and discomfort. 

And while (for some at least) nothing is more satisfying than gently lifting away a ginormous layer of skin without breaking it, that satisfaction doesn’t outweigh the detriment to the healing process. Do not pull on your peeling skin, as you may damage healthy tissue. 

You can fight discomfort by wearing loose-fitting clothing in the days following a sunburn. This will prevent the fabric from rubbing and irritating the already-sensitive area. Holman says that at this stage you can also make a paste using baking soda and water, which you can apply to the burn. This technique will help alleviate symptoms and act as a mild exfoliant, she explains. 

To reduce the itching, the Mayo Clinic recommends taking oral allergy medication, which you can get over the counter at your local pharmacy or grocery store. Just follow the instructions on the package to find some blissful relief. 

Practicing general sun safety in your day-to-day life can help enormously. Even if you stay indoors, wear sunscreen every day with at least 30 SPF protection on any exposed areas. Make sure to use the correct amount and reapply as instructed on the package. Reapplication is especially important if you’re going in the water, where your coverage can wash away.  

If you plan to stay out in the sun for an extended period of time, Feely recommends that you bolster your sunscreen with good clothing choices. For example, synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon provide far more UV protection than cotton. 

“Linen absorbs ultraviolet light, whereas synthetic fabrics such as rayon reflect it,” she says. 

Covering yourself up with UPF clothing, a hat, and sunglasses with a high UV rating will also help protect your body’s outermost layer. Don’t forget to check your skin for signs of sunburn once in a while, too.

What is a sunburn?

All this protection matters because sunburn happens when the sun’s ultraviolet radiation damages the DNA inside skin cells. As a result, those cells die in a process known as apoptosis. This excessive damage and death prompts the immune system to release a flood of inflammatory proteins and blood to the area. This flush causes the outer skin to become hot, irritated, and red.

In first-degree sunburns, the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis, is damaged. These are your run-of-the-mill sunburns, where you’ll experience redness, inflammation, and pain. If you see blisters, you’re dealing with a second-degree sunburn. This is where UV radiation has penetrated the epidermis and killed cells all the way down to the dermis, the second layer of skin. Blisters form when these two layers of tissue separate, and inflammatory fluid rushes to the area to prevent further damage.

[Related: 5 skin cancer-care tools you should look out for]

The length of time it takes for your skin to rebound from a sunburn varies. “Depending on the severity, the redness can persist anywhere from a few days to weeks,” says Feely. 

Even after the sunburn goes away, you might see lasting effects on your skin, such as fine lines, wrinkles, or solar lentigines, colloquially known as sunspots. All these markings more commonly develop after repeated exposure to the sun. If you notice these changes, applying a topical retinoid (a class of chemical compounds derived from vitamin A) like Retin-A could help, Feely says. This type of ointment remodels the skin’s collagen and blocks the production of the skin pigment melanin, which helps make sunspots fade.

Now that you know what to do, you can more safely enjoy the fine weather outside. Before you leave, bookmark this guide so that if you miss a spot, you can quickly soothe your skin and get rid of that sunburn as soon as possible.

The post A sunburn treatment that actually works appeared first on Popular Science.

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The fact that it is hard to find a file on a platform owned by the company that runs the world’s largest search engine is just pure irony. 

We imagine this is not lost on Google, which is why they made it easier to search Google Drive by introducing Search Chips. This feature can help you hunt down that deeply buried document you so desperately need on the company’s cloud service by allowing you to add multiple search parameters like file ownership, type, and location. 

Additionally, Search Chips are easier to use and find than the classic Advanced Search filters, though these are still available to further refine your query.

Search Google Drive like a pro

The name “Search Chips” refers directly to how this feature looks on the Google Drive interface. 

You might have seen something similar on Gmail: a series of buttons you can use to filter messages depending on who sent them when they were sent, and whether they have attachments. 

[Related: You should download the new Google Drive for Desktop]

Google Drive’s Search Chips are basically the same, but the filters are optimized for finding files in the cloud. To summon them, enter a keyword into the search bar at the top of the screen and hit Enter—a row of buttons with different filtering options will instantly appear at the top of the results page.

Click each of them to open a dropdown menu and refine your search. From left to right, your first option, File Type, will allow you to filter by the format of the document you’re looking for. The menu includes file types compatible with Google’s productivity suite (Sheets, Docs, Forms, etc.), plus other popular formats, like PDFs and ZIP files. You’ll also be able to choose categories, like Photos & Images, which is an umbrella term for image files with extensions such as JPEG, GIF, PNG, and TIFF. From here you’ll also be able to exclusively search for folders and shortcuts. 

The next filter you can set up is People, which lets you search by the people who have access to the file you’re looking for. Click it to open a dropdown menu, which will always have your name at the top and be populated by frequent contacts. Hover over an entry to see how that person might be involved in the file you’re looking for—you can choose from files that belong to them (Is owned by), those they have created (Is created by), and those they’ve shared with you (Is shared by). There’s also a search bar in case you want to find someone who’s not listed.

The third button is the Last modified filter, which lets you use a predetermined (Today, Last 7 days, Last 30 days, This year, etc.) or a custom date range to search only among files edited within that timeframe. 

Next up is Location, which lets you choose where you want the search engine to look for your file. The default option is Anywhere in Drive but you can change that to something else. For example, you may only want to search among files somebody else shared with you (Shared with me), or among documents currently living in your drive (My Drive). The latter covers all documents created by you, but also those shared by others that you’ve proactively saved to your drive. If you think you might have made a mistake, you can limit your search to Trashed. If that’s the case, remember items in Google Drive’s Trash will only survive 30 days, so if you accidentally deleted your lost document over a month ago, you’d better hope someone else on your team has a copy.

Farther to the right you’ll find the Title only filter, which acts like a switch—click it and Google will only look for the keyword you typed in the search bar in document titles, not their contents. 

The last search chip is the To do dropdown menu, which filters documents by calls to action. For this, you can use Follow-ups as a filter and search only among documents you own that have unresolved suggestions (Suggestions) or those that require your attention but you haven’t replied to yet (Comments assigned to me). You can also filter your query to see only documents with pending ownership transfer requests (Review and accept) or refine your search using one of Google Drive’s document approvals. On the To do menu, click Pending my approval to see the files you have yet to give your OK to, and Requested by me to search among those with pending requests. 

The post Use Google Drive’s Search Chips and never lose a file again appeared first on Popular Science.

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In this day and age, GIFs are a basic form of online communication—just as essential as emojis and memes. 

So imagine our surprise when, on Threads’ first day online, we realized the new Twitter alternative didn’t have full GIF integration. Shock. Not only that, but the platform doesn’t play nice with the built-in GIF features on Gboard or the iPhone’s keyboard. 

Worry not—even in the early stages of Meta’s new social network, users have found workarounds to make sure everyone can see exactly how they feel about something in their threads 

2. Tap on the image you like and copy it. Open the GIF by tapping on it, and then tap and hold (long tap) to open the options menu. From there, choose Copy image.

3. Paste it on Threads. Go to the Threads app, create a new thread by tapping the pen and paper icon in the middle of the bottom of the screen, and paste the image (long tap on the blank thread and choose Paste on the emerging menu). 

2. Tap on the image you like and download it. Open the GIF and long tap on the image to get more options. Choose Download image on the emerging menu. You’ll notice there’s also a Share image option, which you’ll ultimately do, but not just yet. If you share the image now, Android will paste the URL of the image on a new thread, not the GIF itself. And that’s a rookie mistake. 

3. Find your image. The easiest way to go about this is by opening up your notification drawer and tapping the Download complete item at the top of the list. If you missed it or discarded it by accident, go to your local file directory and search for it there. On Pixel phones, for example, you’ll need to open the Files app, where you should see your newly downloaded GIF in the Images folder or highlighted at the top of the app as a recent file. 

4. Share your image on Threads. Open the file and at the top of your screen and you should see the share option: it looks like a less-than symbol with circles on each end. Android will suggest your most recent contacts to share the photo with, as well as your favorite apps. If you’re new to Threads, you probably won’t see the app in there right away, so make sure to swipe up that menu to expand it and pick the app from the app drawer. Tap on the Threads icon and Android will take you to the app’s New thread screen, where the GIF will already be there waiting for you to send it into the world. 

To share GIFs from Giphy, the process is the same as with the rest of the apps we’ve seen so far: search for the image you want to add to your thread, open it, hit the share button in the top right corner of the screen, choose the Threads app, and it’ll appear as a new post ready to be shared with your friends. 

Once you have the Giphy keyboard installed, you’ll be able to use it on any app on your phone, including Threads. Open a new thread and on the iOS keyboard, tap the globe icon to switch to the Giphy keyboard. If you type in more than one language on your phone, you might need to tap the icon multiple times to toggle between keyboards. On the Giphy keyboard, use the shortcuts or the built-in search tool to find the GIF you like and tap it to copy it. To insert the GIF into your thread, long tap on the blank post and select Paste. 

Embed GIFs on Threads using the Share feature

But you don’t have to have a file on your local storage to share it on Threads. You can find a sent GIF on WhatsApp, for example, select it (tap and hold) and then tap the Share icon in the top right corner of your screen. You’ll then be able to select Threads to post the image. 

[Realated: The best ways to make your own GIFs]

The post How to add GIFs to Threads appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

THE LATEST WAVE of artificial intelligence development has forced many of us to rethink key aspects of our lives. Digital artists, for example, now need to focus on protecting their work from image-generating sites, and teachers need to contend with some of their students potentially outsourcing essay writing to ChatGPT. 

But the flood of AI also comes with important privacy risks everyone should understand—even if you don’t plan on ever finding out what this technology thinks you’d look like as a merperson.

A lack of transparency

“We often know very little about who is using our personal information, how, and for what purposes,” says Jessica Brandt, policy director for the Artificial Intelligence and Emerging Technology Initiative at the Brookings Institution, a nonprofit in Washington, D.C., that conducts research it uses to tackle a wide array of national and global problems. 

In broad terms, machine learning—the process by which an AI system becomes more accurate—requires a lot of data. The more data a system has, the more accurate it becomes. Generative AI platforms like chatbots ChatGPT and Google’s Bard, plus image generator Dall-E get some of their training data through a technique called scraping: They sweep the internet to harvest useful public information. 

But sometimes, due to human error or negligence, private data that was never supposed to be public, like delicate company documents, images, or even login lists, can make its way to the accessible part of the internet, where anyone can find them with the help of Google search operators. And once that information is scraped and added to an AI’s training dataset, there’s not a lot anyone can do to remove it. 

“People should be able to freely share a photo without thinking that it is going to end up feeding a generative AI tool or, even worse—that their image may end up being used to create a deepfake,” says Ivana Bartoletti, global chief privacy officer at Indian tech company Wipro and a visiting cybersecurity and privacy executive fellow at Virginia Tech’s Pamplin College of Business. “Scraping personal data across the internet undermines people’s control over their data.”

Data scraping is only one potentially problematic source of training data for AI systems. Katharina Koerner, a senior fellow for privacy engineering at the International Association of Privacy Professionals, says another is the secondary use of personal data. This happens when you voluntarily give up some of your information for a specific purpose but it ends up serving another you didn’t consent to. Businesses have been accumulating their clients’ information for years, including email addresses, shipping details, and what kinds of products they like, but in the past, there wasn’t a lot they could do with this data. Today, complex algorithms and AI platforms provide an easy way to process this information so they can learn more about people’s behavioral patterns. This can benefit you by serving you only ads and information you might actually care about, but it can also limit product availability and increase prices depending on your ZIP code. Koerner says it’s tempting for businesses to do this given that some are already sitting on large piles of data their own clients provided. 

“AI makes it easy to extract valuable patterns from available data that can support future decision making, so it is very tempting for businesses to use personal data for machine learning when the data was not collected for that purpose,” she explains.  

It doesn’t help that it’s extremely complicated for developers to selectively delete your personal information from a large training data set. Sure, it may be easy to eliminate specifics, like your date of birth or Social Security number (please don’t provide personal details to a generative AI platform). But performing a full deletion request compliant with Europe’s General Data Protection Regulation, for example, is a whole other beast, and perhaps the most complex challenge to solve, Bartoletti says. 

[Related: How to stop school devices from sharing your family’s data]

Selective content deletion is difficult even in traditional IT systems, thanks to their convoluted microservice structures, where each part works as an independent unit. But Koerner says it’s even harder, if not currently impossible, in the context of AI.  

That’s because it’s not just a matter of hitting “ctrl + F” and deleting every piece of data with someone’s name on it—removing one person’s data would require the costly procedure of retraining the whole model from scratch, she explains.

It’ll be harder and harder to opt out

A well-nourished AI system can provide incredible amounts of analysis, including pattern recognition that helps its users understand people’s behavior. But this is not due only to the tech’s abilities—it’s also because people tend to behave in predictable ways. This particular facet of human nature allows AI systems to work just fine without knowing a lot about you specifically. Because what’s the point in knowing you when knowing people like you will suffice? 

“We’re at the point where it just takes minimal information—just three to five pieces of relevant data about a person, which is pretty easy to pick up—and they’re immediately sucked into the predictive system,” says Brenda Leong, a partner at BNH.AI, a Washington, D.C., law firm that focuses on AI audits and risk. In short: It’s harder, maybe impossible, to stay outside the system these days. 

This leaves us with little freedom, as even people who’ve gone out of their way for years to protect their privacy will have AI models make decisions and recommendations for them. That could make them feel like all their effort was for nothing.

“Even if it’s done in a helpful way for me, like offering me loans that are the right level for my income, or opportunities I’d genuinely be interested in, it’s doing that to me without me really being able to control that in any way,” Leong continues. 

Using big data to pigeonhole entire groups of people also leaves no place for nuance—for outliers and exceptions—which we all know life is full of. The devil’s in the details, but it’s also in applying generalized conclusions to special circumstances where things can go very wrong. 

The weaponization of data

Another crucial challenge is how to instill fairness in algorithmic decision making—especially when an AI model’s conclusions might be based on faulty, outdated, or incomplete data. It’s well known at this point that AI systems can perpetuate the biases of their human creators, sometimes with terrible consequences for an entire community. 

As more and more companies rely on algorithms to help them fill positions or determine a driver’s risk profile, it becomes more likely that our own data will be used against our own interests. You may one day be harmed by the automated decisions, recommendations, or predictions these systems make, with very little recourse available. 

[Related: Autonomous weapons could make grave errors in war]

It’s also a problem when these predictions or labels become facts in the eyes of an algorithm that can’t distinguish between true and false. To modern AI, it’s all data, whether it’s personal, public, factual, or totally made up. 

More integration means less security

Just as your internet presence is as strong as your weakest password, the integration of large AI tools with other platforms provides attackers with more latches to pry on when trying to access private data. Don’t be surprised if some of them are not up to standards, securitywise. 

And that’s not even considering all the companies and government agencies harvesting your data without your knowledge. Think about the surveillance cameras around your neighborhood, facial recognition software tracking you around a concert venue, kids running around your local park with GoPros, and even people trying to go viral on TikTok. 

The more people and platforms handle your data, the more likely it is that something will go wrong. More room for error means a higher chance that your information spills all over the internet, where it could easily be scraped into an AI model’s training dataset. And as mentioned above, that’s terribly difficult to undo.  

What you can do

The bad news is that there’s not a lot you can do about any of it right now—not about the possible security threats stemming from AI training datasets containing your information, nor about the predictive systems that may be keeping you from landing your dream job. Our best bet, at the moment, is to demand regulation.

The European Union is already moving ahead by passing the first draft of the AI Act, which will regulate how companies and governments can use this technology based on acceptable levels of risk. US president Joe Biden, meanwhile, has used executive orders to award funding for the development of ethical and equitable AI technology, but Congress has passed no law that protects the privacy of US citizens when it comes to AI platforms. The Senate has been holding hearings to learn about the technology, but it hasn’t come close to putting together a federal bill. 

As the government works, you can—and should—advocate for privacy regulation that includes AI platforms and protects users from the mishandling of their data. Have meaningful conversations with those around you about the development of AI, make sure you know where your representatives stand in terms of federal privacy regulation, and vote for those who have your best interests at heart. 

Read more PopSci+ stories. 

The post The Opt Out: 4 privacy concerns in the age of AI appeared first on Popular Science.

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There are lots of reasons why you’d want to delete some or all of your tweets. You might want to make yourself look more professional to potential employers, or maybe you’re unsure about Twitter’s direction after all the changes it has endured over the last year or so. 

Whatever your reason, knowing how to delete a tweet is a useful skill to have: Just click or tap on the three dots in the top right corner of your post and hit Delete. There’s no missing it—it’s the first option and the only one in bright red letters. Unfortunately, these quick steps will only serve you if you have the patience to go one by one. Bulk-deleting tweets is a whole other beast, and you’ll need a specialized app to get the job done.

If you’ve been on the bird app for a while, you’ll have a lot of data in your archive, so get ready to wait anywhere between 24 and 36 hours before the file is ready to download. 

A lot of content also makes for a hefty file, so don’t be surprised if your archive is more than a couple gigabytes. Downloading it (and later uploading it to a tweet-deletion platform) will likely take a while.

And as if that were not slow enough, there may also be a lag between an app asking Twitter to delete your tweets, and the actual deletion. This will depend on the number of posts you want to trash and the capabilities of the app you’re using. It can take 5 minutes, 6 hours, or, like in our experience, an entire day. 

All in all, there’s no saying exactly how long it will take to get rid of your tweets, but it’s safe to say it’s not instantaneous. If you have any reason to believe your potential future employer will be looking at your tweets by the end of the week, start the process now. 

4. Deleted tweets are gone forever

This may seem obvious, but it bears repeating: when you delete a tweet, there’s no going back. You can privately access your tweets using your archive (which you can turn into a CSV file and open as a spreadsheet), but you can’t repost them as anything other than an entirely new tweet. It’s useful to keep this in mind when using an automated parameter that tells an app to, say, get rid of everything posted within a date range or containing certain keywords. 

Bulk-deleting anything always comes with the risk of accidentally removing something you liked. So if there are some tweets you mean to keep, be really careful about the tools you use.

This may happen when, for example, you retweet something that was later deleted, or the account that originally posted it was removed, suspended, or made private. Your retweet still exists, but Twitter cannot fetch it, so it’ll reflect on your counter even if your profile is squeaky clean. 

[Related: How to remove your data from people-finder sites]

Keep in mind that some or all of these limitations may change depending on the platform you use, as some developers may be able to manage them better than others. Things may also differ from one day to the next if Twitter decides to adjust its API—it’s already cutting off access for bot accounts, for example. 

For the time being, if you want to decimate your Twitter existence, either partially or completely, all that’s left to do is choose your fighter. 

Each of these has different strengths and capabilities to suit your needs. Find the one you like the most and kiss those tweets goodbye.

Semiphemeral

Semiphemeral is one of the few tweet-deletion apps that offers all of its tools for free, so you won’t ever run into a paywall. 

It’s worth knowing that Semiphemeral defines itself as antifascist, and that’s not just a marketing label. You won’t be able to use the platform if you regularly like tweets posted by “prominent racists, misogynists, antisemites, homophobes, neo-Nazis, and other fascists,” but it’s unclear what specific accounts they’re referring to. Luckily, it’s not hard to get back into Semiphemeral’s good graces. If you’ve liked between four and 10 tweets from one of the accounts the platform keeps an eye on, the app will tell you exactly which tweets it flagged once you log in, and you’ll be able to access the service if you unlike them. If you’ve liked more than 10 tweets from these accounts, you’ll need to contact Semiphemeral directly to try to get unblocked.

If you don’t run into any issues logging into Semiphemeral (you’ll need your Twitter credentials), you’ll find the platform is bare-bones simple, which makes it easy to nuke a large chunk of tweets. Unlike other apps on this list, Semiphemeral will immediately ask Twitter for your archive, which, as detailed above, takes some time. In my case, it took a little over 48 hours to download more than 35,000 tweets (don’t judge me—I’ve been on there for a while). Semiphemeral won’t notify you when it’s ready to delete your tweets, so you should keep the site open in a browser tab and monitor it from time to time.

While you wait, you can’t do anything but tweak the Settings, which will determine what Semiphemeral can and cannot delete. There are three customizable sections, and every option is thoroughly explained to avoid any mistakes. First, check the box next to Delete old tweets, and determine how old a tweet must be to get deleted—anything younger will stay online. Here, you’ll notice a slight annoyance: you won’t be able to pick a specific date. Semiphemeral counts time in days, so if you want to, say, delete everything older than roughly five years, you’ll have to type in 1,825 days. The next section will allow you to unlike and un-retweet posts after a certain number of days, and the last section will let you request Semiphemeral delete your direct messages. The platform warns that it can only automatically delete DMs sent in the last 30 days, so you’ll have to follow the instructions under the DMs section if you want to go beyond that. 

Back in the navigation bar at the top of your screen, you’ll find the Tweets section, where you’ll be able to see your posts and save them from doom by checking the box next to Exclude from deletion. The list is not in chronological order, so you might want to use the bar at the bottom of the screen to filter your tweets by word. A warning: add a space at the end of a word to use it as a filter. Not doing so will dredge up tweets that not only have the word “car” in them but also the words “carnation” and “carnivore.”

When you’re done adjusting the settings, go to Dashboard and click on Start Semiphemeral. The platform will put your request in the queue and all you’ll have to do is wait until it’s done. Once deletion is complete (you’ll need to check your dashboard), the platform will automatically queue up another round of deletion for the next day. If you don’t want to have the app delete tweets for you every day, hit Pause Semiphemeral, but otherwise, it’ll keep running, removing tweets every 24 hours according to the parameters you set up. 

TweetDelete

Right off the bat, what you’ll be able to do with TweetDelete will vary depending on whether you have a premium account or not. 

With the free tier, you’ll be able to remove up to 10 posts and likes every month. The process is similar to that of Semiphemeral: you log into the platform using your Twitter credentials, give it permission to operate, and start your first tweet-nuking task. 

Paying users (plans start at $6 a month), though, can delete 500, 3,200, or all tweets every month, and Pro and Premium plans can even run automatic deletion tasks. These might include erasing week-old tweets with the word “cat”, or another that removes month-old tweets with a particular hashtag. Your tasks will run in tandem, so everything will get done at once, and as long as you’re paying, they’ll continue working until you disable them.

No matter how much you pay, TweetDelete will only be able to get rid of 3,200 of your likes—just like Semiphemeral. As mentioned above, this is an access limitation Twitter built into its API, so at the moment there’s nothing these or any other apps can do beyond that. The same goes for waiting times—TweetDelete processes tasks every three days, which might add an extra 72 hours’ worth of tweets to every batch set for automatic deletion. 

If you feel like deleting your entire Twitter history in one fell swoop, you’ll need to be a Premium TweetDelete user. Only then can you erase them all by uploading your archive file. The platform offers an interface that will make it easier for you to find any exceptions you want automatic tasks to skip, as well as an advanced search mode that will let you erase specific posts using their ID numbers—the 19-digit number at the end of every tweet URL. This, and the ability to run multiple simultaneous automatic deletion tasks, make this service worth your hard-earned cash if you want to regularly curate your tweet history. But if you don’t plan to delete more tweets in the near future and just want to get rid of your old ones, sticking with a free platform like Semiphemeral may be a better choice. 

To get rid of all of your tweets or any number of posts beyond 3,200, you’ll have to pay for an unlimited account, which will punch a $72 hole in your wallet every year. Before you splurge, you can always test-drive the platform on the free tier, but you won’t be able to do much with that basic access: delete five tweets a month, run five keyword searches, and set up a profanity filter. These, by the way, are all services you already get on Twitter itself. It’s not “go big or go home,” though: TweetDeleter offers multiple tiers of paid access, starting at $4 a month, billed annually for an up-front payment of $48 a year. 

This last option is the one thing you won’t find on any of the other platforms on this list. While TweetDelete will allow you to open your Twitter history as a spreadsheet, TweetDeleter provides a space for them within its platform so you can access your deleted tweets in a prettier, friendlier interface. As we’ve mentioned, this doesn’t mean you can reinstate those tweets—only save them as a reference. The only way to get them back on your account is to post them as new tweets. 

Unfortunately, this “Twitter cemetery” feature is an entirely different product that only paying users have access to for an extra $4 a month. The splurge might be worth it if you keep going back to your archive to relive the glory of Twitter’s past, but if you have no attachment to the thoughts you had when you first opened your account, you might want to skip this app and feature altogether. 

What to do after you’ve deleted your tweets

If you like the idea of a bot periodically wiping your tweeting beak, there’s nothing more for you to do but keep the apps working behind the scenes. If, however, tweet deletion is a one-time thing for you, finish up by revoking the permissions you granted to whichever app you used.

This is important from a privacy standpoint—the fewer apps with access to your accounts, the better. But you also don’t know what might happen in the future. If control over one of these apps falls into the wrong hands, bad actors might have direct access to your information. 

To revoke a third-party account’s permissions to your data, open your Twitter profile on the web, and in the left sidebar go to More, Settings and support, and Settings and privacy. On mobile, you’ll find the same options after tapping your avatar (top left corner of your screen). Once there, click or tap on Security and account access, then Apps and sessions. Finally, go to Connected apps, and you’ll see a list of the third-party applications that have access to your account. To remove them from the list, click on each one and choose Revoke app permissions.

If you ever need to delete more tweets in the future, you can easily access these tools again, so you won’t be losing much, if anything, by telling them to get lost.

This story has been updated. It was originally published on November 8, 2022. 

The post Allow us to show you how to bulk-delete tweets appeared first on Popular Science.

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Depending on the size of your Slack community, the productivity platform can seem a bit chaotic. But in its latest update, the app debuted two tools that will help you add order to the chaos.

Slack’s newest additions are the company’s so-called Canvases and the ability to open new windows. These options will make it easier to keep track of all the conversations you want to keep tabs on and take notes on what’s important. 

How to use Canvases on Slack

Whether you use Slack for work or to keep up with friends, the environment can get very confusing, very fast, especially as more people join your workspace. But now you can jot down notes and add to-do lists, links, and other media to chats and channels with Canvases. 

To use this tool, open any chat or channel and click on the canvas icon in the top right corner of the interface—it looks like a dog-eared sticky note with a small plus sign. This will open a new space on the right side of the screen (like what happens when you open a thread) that will act as a highly versatile notepad. 

[Related: Seven quick tricks to do more with Slack]

Slack provides a couple of preset ideas to get you started, including to-do lists, Resources, and Meeting notes, all of which you can customize to ensure they’re a productive space for you. Use the tools at the bottom of the interface to add elements: click the plus sign to add files or images, or to record a video or audio clip within the app. You can also use the emoji option to add as many smiley faces or exclamation points as you want, and the checklist icon to add checkboxes. 

You’d expect the text option (two A’s next to each other) would show the classic formatting tools: font size, bold, underline, italics, etc, but that’s not what it does here. On Canvases, the text option exists to help give your text order and hierarchy. There are different headings (from H1 to H3) to organize your thoughts by topic and subtopics, you can add bulleted and numbered lists, and you can drop in quote text blocks. If you know what you’re doing, you’ll also be able to add a block of code to display on the interface. As for font size, bold, underline, and italics, just use the universal text-formatting shortcuts.

Canvases may seem like a comfortable space to keep notes on what’s happening on Slack, but be careful: this feature is collaborative by default, which means everyone in the channel or direct message where you opened the canvas has access to it. So if your boss gave you an annoying project and you added it to your to-do list under a funny name, they’re going to know about it. But this is not all bad, as collaborative to-do lists can, for example, be really useful for keeping track of major team projects, with people adding and updating items in real time. 

Canvases can also become an interactive space, and each element on one can turn into a thread. On the desktop and web apps, just hover your mouse pointer over each item (if it’s a list) or paragraph and click the speech bubble icon that appears on the right to add a comment as you usually would. On mobile, tap an item on the canvas and then tap the speech bubble icon at the bottom of your screen to open up a thread. 

If you want to create a canvas only for you, you have two options. If you’re on a paid plan, you can scroll all the way to the top of the left sidebar (or the main interface in the mobile app) and click Canvases. There, you’ll be able to create as many canvases as you like, and they’ll all pop up as new windows (more on that in the next section). When you close them, you’ll find all your canvases saved and listed in this section of the app, and you’ll be able to share them with specific people if you want to—just click the Share button in the top right corner of the canvas. Standalone canvases also allow you to reduce the potential for chaos by making them read-only documents—if you’re the creator, just click the three dots in the top right corner of the canvas and choose Read only view. Keep in mind that this will prevent people you’ve shared the canvas with from editing the document, but not from opening threads within it. 

Free-tier users don’t have the ability to create unlimited standalone canvases, but they’ll still be able to create one for themselves using their user’s direct message function. If you don’t know about it already, this is literally a DM you have with yourself, which is an ideal place to save links, messages, and GIFs you want to go back to in the future. You’ll find it at the top of your DM list, and it works just like any other private chat with a friend or co-worker, so it also includes the Canvas option. 

How to open new windows on Slack

Also a recent feature debut, new Slack windows will allow you to have multiple conversations open on your display, which is incredibly useful if there are a number of threads you want to follow. 

To open entire channels or direct conversations in their own dedicated windows, just click on them while holding the Ctrl key (Windows) or the Cmd key (Mac). You can also right-click on the conversation and choose Open in new window. 

[Related: Slack’s new video tool is @here—and you might already be able to use it]

If you want to keep up with the replies to a specific post, you can open a thread and click the new window icon in the top right corner of the interface—it looks like a small square coming out of a bigger one. 

The new window feature is available for all Slack users and guests, but only in the desktop app. Another caveat: Maybe because opening up threads in new windows is now available, Slack no longer lets you keep threads open in the right-hand sidebar while you browse other channels. This is definitely a bummer if you’re not a fan of having multiple windows, or if your spacious display gives the main chat space enough screen real estate already. 

The post Slack rolled out fancy new features. Here’s how to use them. appeared first on Popular Science.

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Get Microsoft Edge

As much as you may like Chrome, Firefox, or whatever web browser you use, Bing is a Microsoft product and it works best with the company’s homegrown browser, Edge. Without it, you won’t get full access to Microsoft’s AI-powered search engine (which they’ve branded “The New Bing”). If you open Bing in any other browser, you’ll still get to search the web, but you won’t get to try the platform’s chat mode. 

Finally, if you have more intimate questions you’d prefer Bing didn’t archive under your name, we’re sorry to inform you that Edge’s InPrivate mode (the browser’s equivalent to Chrome’s Incognito mode and Firefox’s Private window) doesn’t support ChatGPT. This means there’s no way to have delicate conversations with the platform, so if you share a computer with someone else, make sure you log out after you’ve made your queries or search in a more private setting. 

The next screen looks like most messaging platforms, with exchanges (in this case, your questions and Bing’s responses) taking up most of the space. At the bottom of the interface, you’ll find a chat box where you can provide a prompt of up to 4,000 characters. You can type it in directly or click the microphone icon to the right to use the voice-to-text function. Be careful: the latter option will make Bing read the results out loud, and you can’t change that, so make sure you’re comfortable having your results read aloud before you ask a question. Finally, on the right side of the screen, you’ll see a list of your archived conversations. Click an item on it and choose the pencil icon to rename it or the trash can icon to remove it. This is all intuitive and easy to navigate, but there are some buttons you’ll need to know more about. 

Choose a conversation style

The big difference between classic Bing and its AI-powered version is that it lets you search for information in a conversational style. This means the engine understands your questions in a specific context, which makes it easier to refine your search. For example, if you’re asking Bing how to get from the airport to your hotel on your next trip to Paris, the platform will understand what you mean when you follow up by asking which method of transportation is the cheapest or fastest. But there are actually several types of conversations you can have with Bing, depending on what you want it to do. 

Before you enter your prompt, use the buttons in the middle of the interface to define your query’s conversation style. Bing suggests Creative to “generate more imaginative and original responses, such as poems, stories, jokes, images, etc.,” but if you want “more informative and factual responses,” like search results and definitions, you should go with Balanced. Finally, if you’re looking for something even more specific, like calculations, conversions, or straightforward recipes, Precise mode is what you need. 

In our experience, no matter what conversational type you use, the information will be pretty much the same. Answers will mostly vary in length and tone, with Precise being the shortest and most straightforward. Keep in mind that you can’t change the conversational style midway through a conversation, so choose wisely—or you’ll have to start over. 

If you’ve been chatting with Bing for a while and can’t remember what conversational style you’re using, pay attention to the color of the interface. When using the Creative type, it’ll be magenta, you’ll see blue with Balanced, and green with Precise. 

Check for accuracy

Regardless of conversational style, Bing will always show you links to the sources it used to generate its response. You can check them at the bottom of Bing’s responses or by hovering over and clicking underlined text. 

But there’s no guarantee those are reputable websites or that you trust them personally. The platform is not transparent about the vetting process it uses to choose the sources for its AI-generated content, so if you need your results to be factual and accurate, it’s up to you to make sure of that. To do so, click the links and compare the underlined text in Bing’s response with the content of the source page. 

The post How to search the web with Bing’s new AI-powered chat mode appeared first on Popular Science.

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There’s a good chance you have a bunch of Google Chrome extensions you don’t even remember you downloaded. But these add-ons have access to your data and might be snooping around on you—even if you’re not using them.

To prevent old extensions from peeking at your browsing, it’s important to perform a security audit from time to time. Taking a look under Chrome’s hood will ensure you’re only sharing what you want with apps that are actually useful to you.  

Then click Manage extensions, which you’ll find at the end of the list. Chrome will open a new tab featuring a tiled view with each extension’s description and toggle switches you can turn off to quickly disable individual add-ons, if you want. To proceed with your security audit, click the Details button on the extension tile you want to check out. 

[Related: 5 browser extensions that will keep you from drowning in tabs]

On the next page, you’ll see information about that specific add-on, but there are two items you’ll need to look at more closely: Permissions and Site access. The former will give you a brief description of exactly what the extension can do and what information it has access to, while the latter will tell you what sites it can read and make changes on. 

When it comes to site access, you’ll usually get a dropdown menu with three options: Choose On all sites to allow the app to make changes on all the pages you open. This is the default option and it’s necessary for extensions like ad-blockers or screen recorders, for example. Or pick On specific sites to limit the add-on’s range of action, as you may want your grammar-corrector to only work on sites related to your job, like Google Docs. When you choose this option, Chrome allows you to specify the sites you want the extension to work on—paste the URL in the emerging window and click Add. You can continue adding sites by clicking Add a new page. For a more restrictive approach, you can pick On click, which means the app will stand idle until you activate it by clicking its icon.  

If you’re not comfortable with the extensions’ permissions, it’s time to move to another menu. 

The first two are self-explanatory: they will either fully grant or deny an add-on’s access to a specific resource. So, if the extension you’re using for screen recording also has the ability to turn on your camera and film you, you can choose to block camera access if that’s something you don’t want to do. This is also a great place to turn off notifications for any pesky extensions that might want to let you know about a price drop or how much money you’ve saved online shopping this past month.  

To make sure you have a secure setup, go through the permissions list and take a good look at the items that are always allowed. If you’re not comfortable giving an app that level of access, make sure you change that to either Block or Ask. Other than the more evident Location, Microphone, and Camera, pay particular attention to entries such as Pop-ups and redirects, Automatic downloads, File editing, Payment handlers, Insecure content, and Third-party sign-in.  

Get rid of idle extensions

As granularly as you can customize your extensions’ permissions, it’s always a good idea to use the following rule of thumb: If you’re not using it, toss it. Some Chrome apps may just be getting a free ride on your browser, not doing anything wrong. But they might also turn into an open door for hacking or tracking if the platform or developer is compromised. 

[Related: These 5 popular Chrome extensions are compromising your computer]

Removing extensions on Chrome is easy: Go to the Manage extensions menu and click the Remove button on the relevant extension’s tile. You’ll also get the option if you’re in the Details menu: Just scroll down, click Remove extension, and confirm your choice in the emerging window. 

The post How to keep your Google Chrome extensions from snooping on you appeared first on Popular Science.

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Ever since Twitter went under new management, it has been plagued with countless issues and threats to user experience. Other platforms are hoping to take its place.     

Shortly after the Elon Musk takeover, users put their hopes on Mastodon, but the open-source Twitter alternative has not taken off as expected. Now, the strongest contender to replace it as the internet’s water cooler is the decentralized Bluesky. 

Backed by former Twitter CEO Jack Dorsey, Bluesky looks a lot like Twitter down to its corporate colors. We spent a couple of weeks there and these are our main takeaways. 

There are not a lot of people on there

Maybe the biggest hurdle preventing Bluesky from becoming the next huge thing on the internet is the fact that the platform is in a closed beta version. This means it’s a work in progress (more on that later) and that you can only get in there with an invite code. Users without an invitation can join an ever-growing waitlist that’s currently 1.9 million people long. 

Having such a limited entry to the platform has resulted in a user base of only a little over 100,000—that’s not even 0.02 percent of Twitter’s monthly active users. It’s safe to say no one actually knows that many people, but it’s still a low-enough number to make Bluesky feel like a small place.

[Related: Twitter turns to Community Notes to factcheck images]

During our first two weeks on the platform, we kept seeing a low rotation of content and skeets (that’s what they’re unofficially called, much to the dismay of Bluesky’s CEO, Jay Graber) by the same users over and over again. 

If you used Twitter to catch up on world events, you might find some of your go-to legacy media outlets haven’t made it to the platform or haven’t built their accounts just yet. For example, The New York Times only just appeared on Bluesky (at the time of writing it has 83 followers and no posts), while NPR has been there for a while, but shows no activity whatsoever. 

If you’re a Twitter power user moving to Bluesky, you might miss the endless scrolling and a continuous feed of fresh posts. But maybe the overwhelming amount of tweets is exactly why you’re running away from the bird app, so the small user base could also be a benefit depending on how you look at it. 

You might find it a nice and fun place

A party you can only attend when invited by somebody who’s already at the party is bound to become an echo chamber of like-minded people. And this is exactly what’s happening on Bluesky right now. Again, this can be a good or a bad thing depending on how you look at it—or which side of the aisle you sit on. 

Maybe because Twitter became an uncomfortable or straight-up unsafe place for some users, on Bluesky you’ll find a lot of politically liberal posters who are either part of the LGBTQ+ community or fully support it. You’ll find a lot of cute cat and dog content, memes, and users just nicely saying “Good morning” to the world. 

If this is all reminiscent of the early days of Twitter it’s not because having such a clearly defined vibe is a unique experience, but something most platforms go through at the beginning, and a direct result of having such a small user base. It’s possible all of this changes once Bluesky comes out of beta and opens up to a wider audience. 

It’s still in beta—and it shows

When in beta, apps are usually in a weird stage where they’re nearly formed but not quite there yet. Bluesky is currently in an adolescent phase, so users who have access to it are prone to stumble upon glitches and other aspects of the platform that need some development. 

In our experience, this translated into either no new skeets generated throughout the day, to our What’s Hot or Popular with Friends feeds going into an updating frenzy that, if left alone, could go on for minutes. And this didn’t happen once, but repeatedly and almost every day. There is also a delay between you skeeting or reskeeting a post and it showing up on your profile, as well as outdated follower counts. Notifications were also glitchy, and sometimes they don’t go away immediately after you view them.

This is not to throw shade on Bluesky, as errors and interruptions are a normal occurrence in a beta program. But if you’re interested in joining the platform and manage to get an invite code, you should know that your experience will probably not be seamless. If, on the other hand, you have little patience with glitches, wait until the site opens up to the public, as you should expect smoother functionality then. 

The similarities with Twitter can be confusing at first

Sometimes you’re walking down the street and someone in the distance looks familiar, but you have a hard time figuring out whether it’s that friend you met at your first job or a total stranger. The feeling is akin to when you first migrate from Twitter to Bluesky, mainly because the interfaces are undeniably reminiscent of each other. The colors are very much alike, and the page layout with a main feed flanked by two sidebars, is more or less the same. Even the order of the options on the main navigation sidebar is similar.   

But that’s the problem: it’s similar but not quite the same. This will result in occasional confusion, especially while you figure out how feeds work. The structure of feeds, Bluesky’s way to sort content, is the main difference between the platform and the bird app. While on Twitter you have only two feeds (the messy, algorithmically-customized For You, and the old-school Following), Bluesky gives you three feeds by default: 

• Following: A chronological timeline with all the skeets from the people you follow.  
• What’s Hot: An algorithmically-curated timeline with the top trending skeets from all over Bluesky.
• Popular With Friends: A little bit of both above, this timeline compiles the top trending content among the people you follow.  

You’ll find these feeds as tabs at the top of the Bluesky interface, but that’s just the beginning. On the left sidebar, you can go to My Feeds and open the settings menu (it looks like a cog icon) in the top right corner of the page to see, remove, and sort your feeds. You can hide them so they’re only available when you click on My Feeds, but you can also pin them to your home page so you can access them more easily. 

To find a full list of feeds you might be interested in, click Discover new feeds at the bottom of the settings menu. Bluesky offers some official extra feeds while the rest is created by users. You’ll find a wide array of options: from some solely dedicated to pictures of cats, dogs, or flowers, to feeds filtered by language and other topics, like science, news, and health. There’s also one said to be dedicated to Alf from the TV show Alf, but if you add that feed, you’ll soon realize it has little to do with your favorite alien from Melmac. 

As a Bluesky user, you can also create your own feeds (for you and other people to follow) but at the moment the process is not streamlined and requires coding know-how. The platform’s goal is to make feed-making more intuitive and create an “algorithm marketplace” so users have more control over what they see on Bluesky and how that content is sorted. 

Go to Moderation and you’ll find some useful items. Muted accounts and Blocked accounts are self-explanatory: they’re the lists of the people you’ve filtered out of your feeds, and going here will allow you to edit that roster as you see fit. 

Mute lists are an interesting addition—it allows you to create themed blacklists of accounts you can mute and unmute in bulk. For instance, if you identify a handful of users who tend to post spoilers, you can add them all to a list and avoid their posts around the time a season of your favorite show is coming to an end. You can then easily unmute them all in one go once you’re all caught up with the show by unsubscribing to your own mute list. The list will still be there, though, and you can subscribe to it again if you want to. 

[Related: How to banish toxic posts from your social feeds]

Finally, Content filtering is an intuitive menu where you can choose the level of filtering of sensitive content in your feeds. You can choose between Hide and Show (an all-or-nothing approach), or set the filter to warn you about certain types of posts. Bluesky offers granular options for sexual content, allowing you to choose the exact volume of Explicit sexual images, Other nudity (this includes non-sexual and artistic nudity), and Sexually suggestive content you’d like to see. The site doesn’t have a help site yet, so it is unclear whether these filters apply only to images or if they also include other types of posts. The platform also offers an option to filter out gorey content (Violent/bloody), but you won’t be able to be as granular as you can be when curating how many sexually charged posts you see in your feeds. 

As far as Twitter alternatives go, the lack of a steep learning curve makes Bluesky a pretty good option, even if there are still some details left to tweak. But whether this is the platform that will take the bird app’s place, is still unclear. In the meantime, you can use Twitter to see if you can get an invite code—unless you’re willing to join the waitlist for who knows how much longer. 

The post Twitter alternative Bluesky is fun, friendly, and kind of empty appeared first on Popular Science.

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Although the World Health Organization only recently declared the end of the mpox global emergency, the virus is not gone. Chicago health authorities, for one, have identified up to 31 cases of the disease formerly known as monkeypox since the beginning of April, and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention is raising awareness ahead of the summer. 

A full schedule of two doses of the Jynneos vaccine can be up to 89 percent effective, but the CDC urges high-risk communities to take extra precautions to avoid a health crisis like we had last summer. Understanding how the virus spreads and how to prevent infection is key to complementing the protection provided by vaccines.

It’s worth noting that mpox seldom requires hospitalization and is rarely lethal: The US reported 30,235 confirmed cases between May 2022 and March 2023, with 38 deaths, the majority of both among Black people. Last year, access to treatment was limited, but there’s no reason to believe that will be the case this year, especially in major cities, as the health system is currently better equipped to respond to new mpox surges. But prevention is still crucial as the skin lesions that are one of the most common symptoms of the virus can be extremely painful without proper medication. 

Matching last year’s domestic and international trends, the recent small surge in Chicago has mainly been concentrated within the community of gay, bisexual, and queer men who have sex with other men (GBMSM, in short), and their sexual network. Whether you identify as such or are currently at low risk of contracting the virus, you should know how mpox spreads and how to stay safe.  

“​​Let’s say you touch a lesion and the virus gets on your hand. Unless you have a break in the skin, you should be ok,” says Scott Roberts, assistant professor of infection prevention at Yale University’s School of Medicine. The problem is that we tend to touch our mouths, eyes, and faces throughout the day, which means you can infect yourself with viruses lingering on your digits, he explains. 

Because sex entails a lot of constant and persistent touching, involves the exchange of multiple bodily fluids, and the inherent friction can tear skin, it has become the main way mpox spreads. In 2022, sex was responsible for 82 percent of transmissions, and 84 percent of cases have been within the GBMSM community. This is why some experts believe mpox could be classified as a sexually transmitted infection or STI. But Roberts isn’t one of them.

[Related: A guide to preventing, spotting, and managing STIs]

“The reason that we’re seeing the spread through sexual contact is not that it’s a sexually transmitted infection, but rather the close, prolonged contact in an intimate encounter, where you’re touching parts of the skin, kissing, sharing bodily fluids,” Roberts says. “All of that is a good scenario for a virus to spread.”

Several studies have found traces of the mpox virus in semen, but only one of them, published by Italian researchers in The Lancet Infectious Diseases, showed the virus in the sample could replicate and actually infect another person. Unfortunately, there still isn’t enough evidence either way, so we still don’t know if mpox can spread directly through the exchange of semen, feces, or vaginal fluids.

Keep in mind that skin-to-skin contact doesn’t mean you’ll get infected by shaking hands with someone who has mpox—you’d need a high viral load for that to happen. 

“It definitely requires a much longer time of close and prolonged contact if you don’t touch somebody’s lesions,” says Roberts.

But mpox is not airborne, and it doesn’t behave like COVID-19, where microscopic droplets can infect you if enough of them get into your nose and mouth. Researchers including those who worked on the Lancet study have said that the viral load in a mpox patient’s airways is nowhere near as high as the one from lesion secretions. That means transmission from respiratory fluids may be possible, but a lot less likely.

How to prevent mpox

As mentioned above, because the current and 2022 outbreaks have been mostly contained within the GBMSM community, authorities have given its members priority access to vaccines and treatment options. But even with that and greater availability of inoculations compared to last year, the CDC says only one in four people eligible to get the Jynneos shots actually have received them. 

It’s because of this low vaccination rate, aggravated by the fact that vaccines are not 100 percent effective, that even if you’ve received your two doses, you should still strive to reduce your own risk of contracting mpox as much as possible.

You should also keep in mind that there are a lot of ways to have sex, and some don’t require touching or even being in the same room with your partner. Take this as an opportunity to be creative and explore these options as sexual alternatives.

Anonymity is another problem. We know the thrill of having sex with strangers is, well, the “strangers” part. But it’s better to stay in the know when it comes to stopping the spread of a virus. Anonymous sex rarely gives people the chance to have honest conversations about their levels of mpox exposure, potential symptoms, and vaccination status. Talking to someone before tearing off their clothes will allow everyone involved to stay safer, make informed decisions, and clearly establish how much risk you’re comfortable with. 

And since you’re already having a conversation, don’t forget to exchange real names and contact information with potential partners. These include people you kiss, have penetrative sex with, and do everything in between. This will make it easier to get in touch if you end up with mpox symptoms in the future. 

And if you don’t trust yourself to break the spell of anonymity, try to avoid contexts where anonymous sex is most likely to happen, like sex clubs, sex parties, and any other contexts where on-site casual sex is common.

“Mpox is actually a pretty easy virus to kill,” Roberts says. “Alcohol wipes, soap and water, disinfectant, all of that really easily kills the virus.”

In general, you should regularly disinfect surfaces like kitchen counters, door knobs, and light switches, the CDC says. You should also wash your hands frequently with an alcohol-based sanitizer, or soap and water. If you’re not sure whether your cleaning products will do the trick, the Environmental Protection Agency has a list of approved disinfectants. 

The post What you can do to prevent the spread of mpox appeared first on Popular Science.

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It’s never too late to get better handwriting. We don’t mean calligraphy level, which would make your doctor’s office check-in forms look like royal decrees from the 1500s. We mean legible and consistent, regardless of whether you use print or cursive. 

Just like most aspects of life, you can improve your handwriting with practice. Repetition will help you gradually change your style, and you’ll eventually reach a point where letters flow naturally and beautifully from pen to paper. We can’t promise the words will make sense, but at least they’ll look pretty. 

Avoid thick or spiral notebooks and instead opt for one with a flexible binding that you can open flat. This will prevent the heavier side of your book from trying to pull the whole thing closed, and eliminate any wrist discomfort a thick spiral may create as you approach the end of each line. Thinner notebooks will also keep your hand from losing support as you write the final lines on a page. 

Next, find a paper layout angle that suits your writing. Don’t fall for the notion that the only correct setup is vertical, as that can force your hand and wrist to adopt an unnatural writing position, which could lead to pain and even injury. There’s absolutely no shame in positioning your sheet of paper or notebook at a 45-degree angle or even a totally horizontal alignment. The best way to find out what angle works for you is to start with your paper laid vertically and then rotate it to the left (if you’re right-handed) or the right (if you’re left-handed) until you’re comfortable. This is why having a spacious surface to write on matters, as you won’t want to knock down any desk trinkets while you play around with your paper. 

Take as much time as you need to ensure your setup is to your liking. You’ll find this will not only help you improve your handwriting but it will also be relaxing. You’re welcome. 

The best way to know if a pen is right for you is to try it. If you can, go to a stationery store and take your time sampling the pens there—write a couple words on the provided pads and see how each pen feels. Maybe buy two or three to keep testing at home. If you have no idea where to start, you can always give some fan favorites a test drive. 

Many people swear by the Pilot G-2, for example. It comes in several formats, but the tried-and-tested version has a built-in grip, is retractable, uses quick-drying gel ink, and comes in myriad colors. If you want to go with a classic, try BIC’s Cristal or Round Stic pens. You’ve probably written with these a million times before, and they’re a staple because of how comfortable and reliable they are. Some more ideas: Uniball’s Signo, Pentel’s RSVP, Sakura’s Pigma Micron, or any gel pen at Muji. These are all inexpensive writing tools with their own fan bases, so you should be able to find something that works among them. 

If you want to try your hand at fountain pens, start with something designed for beginners that—hopefully—is compatible with disposable ink cartridges, or even comes pre-loaded with ink. This will prevent you from having to buy a bottle of ink and a refillable cartridge, unless you’d really like to. Pilot’s Kakuno or Schneider’s Ray fountain pens are solid, inexpensive choices—they’re light and comfortable, and can prepare you to move on to more serious fountain pens in the future. 

When you write, do it at a normal pace (not too fast, not too slow) and mind your hold on the pen. If your nails are white from the force you’re exerting, your grip is too strong—relax your hand and try again. This is important because an excessively strong grip will lead to pain and discomfort, which can result in hand and wrist cramping, as well as injury. On top of that, pain will also affect the consistency of your handwriting and eventually deter you from putting pen to paper at all, rendering this whole process useless. 

Once you have a comfortable grip, check it every few minutes and correct it if you need to. If you’re having trouble controlling your pen, you can always change your tool or try a pen grip—one of those small rubber tubes that slip right onto your pen or pencil for better control. 

These are the elements you’ll need to focus on to improve your handwriting. No matter if you do cursive, print, or a combination of the two, you want a style that anybody can read clearly, is mostly the same across the page, and has letters that look more or less consistent. This doesn’t mean your handwriting should be perfect or resemble words on a screen (let alone calligraphy)—your handwriting is unique to you and you should embrace it as such. 

If there are aesthetic elements you want to change, or if you want to alter the way you write altogether, draw inspiration from others. A quick web search will turn up thousands of handwriting enthusiasts sharing their own pristine note pages. Take a look at them, find what you like (loose elements or entire styles), mimic it, and make it yours. 

A helpful way to practice is by making your exercises a part of your everyday life. You can do this by taking up a hobby like journaling or meditative writing. This will give you the opportunity to sit down for a couple of minutes each day and put your growing skills to good use. 

If you’re not into journaling, you can just set aside some time to practice every day. Find books, poems, and songs you like, and transcribe them. You can also write down your own train of thought if you can keep up with it. Your writing doesn’t have to be good, or even make sense—the point is to write, and as long as you’re putting words together, you’re getting some practice. 

On top of that, take every opportunity you have to write instead of typing. Keep notepads and pens around your desk and home, and pick them up to write reminders, and lists. If time is not an issue, forgo emails and opt for writing a letter or sending a postcard instead. It’s not only extra practice, but it’s a nice, old-fashioned thing to do and people love it.

A reminder: take your time and be patient. Speed will come once your hand learns the movements you’re teaching it. The more you write, the faster and more organically your lines will come. In the meantime, focus on form and consistency. From time to time, take a moment to analyze your handwriting to see how much you’ve progressed and what you still need to improve. Don’t forget about your grip, either, and check on it often to see if you need to loosen up. 

For the more independent learners, there’s also a lot of practicing material online, like worksheets and guides, that you can download at a cost or even for free. Some of them have slanted lines that can help you keep your angles consistent, and some of them have full instructions on the best ways to join letters and use spacing. 

It bears repeating: handwriting is not calligraphy, and it’s as unique to you as your fingerprints. It doesn’t have to be perfect, and it doesn’t have to look like someone else’s, so make embracing the chaos part of your process. 

The post How to improve your handwriting appeared first on Popular Science.

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But before you start, there are a few things you should keep in mind before you craft homemade hand sanitizer. First, it’s crucial that you understand that proper hand washing will always be better than simply rubbing your digits with hand sanitizer. Using the right amount of alcohol-based disinfectant (3 milliliters) for 25 to 30 seconds is fine in a pinch, but soap, water, and a good scrub are the absolute best way to protect yourself against contagious diseases.

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Knowing how to make hand sanitizer is useful if you ever find yourself in the middle of a health emergency like the COVID-19 pandemic. But these and other DIY recipes are only for extreme cases when hand washing is not an option and supplies are low. Professionals use these formulations in underserviced healthcare settings, and if at some point hand sanitizer is not available at local stores, you can use them too.

Lastly, your homemade hand sanitizer won’t last forever. The main active ingredient in the recipes below is isopropyl alcohol, a volatile compound that will evaporate over time and compromise the effectiveness of your hand sanitizer. When alcohol concentration drops below 60%, your hand sanitizer won’t be able to kill COVID-19 or influenza, for example. The shelf life of store-bought hand sanitizers can vary—the industry standard is three years, but it can go up to five. How long your DIY hand sanitizer lasts will depend on the type and size of the container you use and how often you open it, along with room temperature and humidity. Unfortunately, all of these factors make it hard to predict exactly how long your hand sanitizer will be good for, so proceed with caution. 

The WHO has a comprehensive guide on how to make hand sanitizer—the only problem is that if you follow their instructions, you’ll end up with a lot of it. Like, exactly 2.6 gallons of it. If you want to make enough to last you, your family, and all your friends through a zombie apocalypse, you definitely can. But if you want to keep things on a smaller scale, we’ve adapted the measurements for you.

5. Sanitize your spray bottles and pour in your hand sanitizer. Spray some of your leftover alcohol into your bottles and let them sit until the alcohol has evaporated. Then pour in your sanitizer.

6. Label your bottles. Hand sanitizers pose a real risk of involuntary alcohol poisoning, especially among children, who were largely affected by it during the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic. You don’t want anyone to accidentally ingest your newly made hand sanitizer. Take the time to label your bottles with their contents and the date, and keep them away from unsupervised kids.

6. Label your containers. Hand sanitizers pose a real risk of involuntary alcohol poisoning, especially among children, who were largely affected by it during the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic. You don’t want anyone to accidentally ingest your newly made hand sanitizer. Take the time to label your bottles with their contents and the date, and keep them away from unsupervised kids.

The post How to make hand sanitizer appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

THE INTERNET is vast, and we all have our own ideas about how we want to interact with it: Some livestream their every move, while others keep their daily activities to themselves. This would be perfectly fine if we all lived on our own isolated virtual islands, but we most definitely don’t.

When we share something about ourselves online, we’re also revealing details about those around us—just ask the victims of the Cambridge Analytica scandal, or the incredibly private people who’ve had their real identities revealed by TikTok sleuths. It’s beyond time we started looking at online privacy not as a personal decision, but as a collective issue.

To keep this conversation going, the Opt Out has created a code of conduct everyone could abide by. Of course, we can’t actually control what you do online, but we can help you understand that your actions on the internet have offline consequences, often for people other than you. 

So read these rules, take what applies to your life, and share it with your friends. The more people think about how everyone’s data and personal information is connected via the web, the more attainable privacy will be for all of us. 

1. Consent is king 

Consent is crucial to respecting people’s boundaries. Before you share a photo, a video, a personal story, or anything that depicts or describes someone else, ask them if they’re comfortable with you posting it. 

This includes images in which they’re featured prominently, as well as those where they’re visible only in the background, so be careful when you pan your camera—you might be unwittingly outing a secret relationship people have been speculating about for months. But it’s not only about images: You should also ask for permission when sharing written posts that include a person’s name or details that might identify them. You’ll want to be especially careful with information people might use to contact the person mentioned in your post, like their email address, phone number, location, and place of employment. You don’t want to inadvertently help stalkers get closer to their victims.  

[Related on PopSci+: When you should and shouldn’t accept a website’s cookies]

Content involving children is particularly sensitive. If you’re not the parent or guardian, make sure you ask the person who is before you hit publish. Even if they agree, consider hiding the kids’ faces as much as possible. 

Finally, just don’t post about someone who’s intoxicated, asleep, unconscious, or unable to provide clear consent. In fact, don’t take any pictures or videos of them at all—that’s just creepy.

2. Think carefully about filming or recording random people on the street

Listen, we agree with you: It’s not OK to be mean to people. And as much as you might enjoy the occasional Karen video, you should know that filming people like that is also not OK.

There can be truly good intentions behind such footage, and videos of rude people have probably made some viewers reconsider how they treat others. But once a video is online, you lose control over it. TikTok users have built followings by finding anyone they believe deserves comeuppance and calling their employer to get them fired or reprimanded. Others go even further and dox them, resulting in disproportionate consequences for them and their loved ones, including stalking, harassment, and even assault. Social media rarely makes the distinction between a truly awful person and someone who’s just making a huge mistake. 

That said, there are exceptions. Sometimes whipping out your phone and hitting record could help bring justice to a victim of assault, a hit-and-run, or even murder. Use your judgment to gauge whether you’re in an extreme situation like that and stop to think about the best way you can help—it may be filming at your own personal risk, but it may also be calling 911 or attracting the attention of other bystanders. 

And if you choose to hit that red square on your screen, you’ll have to figure out what to do with the video once you have it. In the great majority of cases, you shouldn’t publish it to social media. The harm you cause when the video leaves your control may be magnitudes greater than whatever clout, following, or emotional boost you gained by posting it. The rare exceptions include when you want to help someone but can’t contact them because they were arrested or removed in an ambulance. Even then, you may want to take some time to see if you can track them down and hand the material over personally.

Keep in mind that even in a court of law, your footage will take on a life of its own once it leaves your hands. Despite your best intentions, your video may not have the effect or result you intended it to.  

3. Don’t share one-to-one messages

As a general rule, treat all texts, photos, and videos you get through one-on-one chats and private message groups with the same care an international spy treats confidential orders from their handler. The people sending those messages meant for you alone to see them, so you shouldn’t send or show them to anybody else. The best example of this is nudes: If you get one, you can save or delete it, but that’s all.

4. Share contact information only when it’s consensual or public

A lot of people have their contact information on websites or their social media accounts. For example, you can email a PopSci writer by clicking the letter icon in their bio at the bottom of a story. This allows readers to send us comments and questions.

But that doesn’t mean other contact information is also public. If you need to disclose someone’s contact information, share only what’s publicly available on their official channels. If they have none listed, always ask them before you share their contact information: Tell them what you plan on sharing and with whom, and proceed only once they say they’re OK with it.  

5. Avoid revealing more information than you need to 

Sometimes we share more information than we think we’re sharing. Without realizing it, your long-awaited unboxing might have given all your followers your home address, and an innocent photo with your colleagues taken during lunch might have revealed your place of employment just because one person forgot to take off their badge.  

This is bad enough when it comes to your own information, let alone when it involves others. So be careful with what you share and look out for details about yourself and the people around you that reveal more than you’d like. 

Be careful with pictures featuring packing labels, official documents, license plates, and boarding passes—if you must share them, blur or cover sensitive information. Don’t forget the background—you’d be amazed at how much you can learn about someone by pausing a video and peeking at their corkboard. You should also take a good look at screenshots before posting, as they may include location data or even a rogue notification you didn’t notice popped up at just the wrong time. When taking photos near windows or outside, pay attention to landmarks, street signs, and anything else that might make your location evident. If you want to go the extra mile, consider erasing the metadata from image files before posting or sharing them online.

Finally, mind the words you use and avoid those that describe a direct affiliation with someone. Going back to that lunch with your colleagues, a sweet post about how much you like them might reveal a lot more than your appreciation for them. Just calling them colleagues reveals everyone’s place of employment (remember that one who didn’t take off their badge?) and if you mention how happy they’ve all made you for the past three years, viewers now have an approximate period of employment. It might not be a lot of information, but it accumulates with every post. 

6. It’s OK not to share your passwords with your partner. It’s also OK if you do. 

You have the right to privacy, and you don’t owe your partner unlimited access to your accounts. Lots of couples share their credentials for the sake of transparency and practicality, but that’s not necessarily a sign of a good and healthy relationship.

[Related on PopSci+: Stop choosing bad passwords, already]

Whether you share your passwords and passcodes with your significant other is your decision and yours alone. If you feel comfortable doing it and think it might make the relationship better, go for it. Just know that you should be able to keep your own space and say no if your partner asks you to open that door.

7. You’re the only one responsible for setting your boundaries

You may have someone in your life who’s very much online—the one who takes a picture of everything and posts multiple updates on social media throughout the day. So the next time you go out with this person and they whip out their phone to take a group picture, don’t just hide from the lens—take some time to have a conversation about what you’re OK with when it comes to being featured in someone else’s online posts. 

They may not understand or agree with your stance at first, and you might have to have the same conversation more than once. But you cannot expect to be comfortable going out with them if they don’t know what you want. Setting boundaries will make it easier for your friend to respect your needs and for you to enforce them. 

8.  Post about what you’re doing but not whom you’re with 

We understand if you don’t feel like having a conversation about online privacy as your food is making its way to your table. It’s a bit boring and certainly not the reason you and your friends got together. So if you haven’t had a conversation about expectations and boundaries when it comes to social presence, you should feel free to post about whatever you’re doing—just as long as you don’t disclose whom you are with.  

The idea is to include only you, the one person definitely providing consent to appear on social media. If someone else also consents, you may include them as well, but be mindful of those who opt out—don’t include them in group photos, and don’t tag or mention them. Be careful to leave out any identifying details, such as tattoos, cars, or anything that might hint at whom you’re out and about with.

9. No consent, no tag

Some people may be comfortable with appearing in your posts but not with you including a link to their social media account or accounts. Again, just ask them what they feel comfortable with. 

This rule also applies to other situations like contests, promotions, friends’ posts, and even using hashtags. Most social media platforms group hashtags and generally make identically tagged content easily accessible to people who may or may not be directly connected to us. For someone who wants to keep to themselves, this can be an unwanted reservoir of information about them.

10. Consent can be given and consent can be taken away

Your friend’s priorities regarding privacy may have changed since the last time you saw them. Even if they frequently post to Instagram and you think they’ll have no problem with you sharing a photo, don’t assume, and always ask them before you post. 

[Related: Everything you need to cure your smartphone addiction]

Tell them what you plan to write as a caption, if you’re planning to mention them, and make them feel comfortable by showing them the picture or post before hitting publish. Give them veto power and options.

And if you’re going to make assumptions about how someone feels about popping up on your timeline, it’s always a good idea to err on the side of caution. Assume the person beside you is private and doesn’t want anything about them online, until you learn otherwise. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

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If you’re reading this, you’ve either encountered several pages claiming they know exactly how to remove sticker residue, or this is your first one. Either way, we don’t think you’ll have to look further. 

There are a lot of options for getting sticker residue off of surfaces, but all of them fall under one of three types of approaches: mechanical, chemical, or thermal. Understanding how each of these works will provide you with the best chance at vanquishing your sticky enemy.

A warning before we begin: there’s no one type of adhesive you’ll find behind a sticker, so results may vary. Also, all of the following methods have caveats, and you may risk damaging the surface underneath the sticker. Use your judgment to determine the best approach in your specific case, and always do a small test in an inconspicuous area to make sure you’re not damaging the underlying material.

You might be tempted to use your nails, but we advise against it, as they might break or get pulled back, and you definitely don’t want that. You also shouldn’t use a tool made out of metal, like a sharp kitchen knife. Not only is it dangerous, but you could damage the surface under the sticker.

[Related: The five smells Americans hate most (and how to get rid of them)]

Instead, opt for a less abrasive tool like a dull plastic knife or a hard plastic spatula. If your sticker is paper, a rubber eraser can be incredibly useful. And before you go to town with it, try your scraper in a small, inconspicuous area. Start gently and use incremental force to see if there’s any damage to the surface beneath. The moment you notice you’re scratching more than you’d like, stop and try another approach.

Scratching is a good idea if you’re trying to get sticker residue off glass, metal, or another hard, sturdy surface. But continue to be careful, as you always risk removing way more than adhesive gunk: paint, enamel, or even a functional coating like Teflon may go with it. 

This approach is usually a great place to start, but it often won’t be enough to complete the job—especially if you reach a point where you’re not able to push that stickiness away. 

To use oil to remove sticker residue, choose one of the substances mentioned above and soak the surface in it, if possible. Peanut butter and mayonnaise have the added benefit of being able to hold their shape, so a dollop of either will be able to stay in place for longer, giving you more control over the affected area. If you don’t have any of these foods at home, you can also use WD-40. It’s not an oil, but the product specializes in water displacement (that’s what the “WD” is for!), so it’ll dissolve water-repellent adhesives. If gravity is working against you, use a rag or sponge to dab some oil on the sticker residue until it’s saturated. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then use a clean rag, paper towel, or sponge with some water and dish soap to rub the residue off. The detergent will trap the fatty gunk, and the area will become squeaky clean as you rinse. 

Oils work better on non-porous surfaces because there’s nothing to absorb them, and you should absolutely not use them if you want to get sticker residue off clothes—they will definitely leave a stain. 

A word of warning though: alcohol (no matter its concentration) and acetone are powerful solvents and can be corrosive, especially on plastics and treated woods. There’s a reason specialists don’t recommend using alcohol to clean your gadgets’ screens, and if acetone can help remove an ever-resistant gel manicure, you can be sure it’ll remove a whole lot of other things, too. Finally, be careful when removing stickers from electronics, as rubbing alcohol has water in it. 

If you want to make sure you won’t destroy the surface you’ll be working on, make sure you do a patch test in an inconspicuous place. Apply the liquid you’re using with a cotton swab and let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Look at the surface and touch it with your fingers to make sure there’s no noticeable damage. Keep in mind there can always be damage you can’t see or feel, so if you’re dealing with a delicate material or something that might be expensive to fix, it’s better to abstain.  

But the fact that vinegar is natural doesn’t mean there are no caveats. Acetic acid is perfectly capable of damaging surfaces, so avoid using it on cast iron, waxed wood, aluminum, stoneware, or marble. That being said, if you’re working with ceramic or glass surfaces, white vinegar may be all you need to say goodbye to sticker gunk.

Vinegar is also the best way to remove sticker residue from clothes and other textiles: Saturate the area and let it sit for a few minutes, then use a toothbrush or a scraping tool to get rid of the loose adhesive. Repeat the process as necessary. If that doesn’t work, you can also try this technique with nail polish remover. Don’t use acetone, though: this strong chemical won’t just stain your clothes, it might burn a hole through them, depending on the fabric they’re made of. Some nail polish removers can stain and bleach fabrics, but it’ll depend on which one you use and the type of textile you’re dealing with. To be safe, do a patch test to make sure the solution is not worse than the problem. 

When it comes to removing sticker residue, you can use temperature to your favor by submerging or carefully exposing the material to boiled water for a few minutes. Protect your hands to prevent burning them, remove the item from the water, and use the scratchy side of a sponge with some dish soap to remove the remnants. Repeat the process if necessary. 

You can also use a hair dryer: Set it to high, keep it 2 inches away, and aim it directly at the affected area for 30 seconds. Turn off the appliance and carefully try removing the remaining gunk—it’ll be hot. If you can safely touch it, use your fingers, or grab a scraping tool if it won’t damage the underlying surface. If the sticker residue won’t budge or if there’s still some left, repeat the process. 

[Related: Use citric acid to clean your dishwasher and other gross household items]

As with all the approaches mentioned above, heat has its caveats, too. For example, if you’re removing sticker residue from a metal surface, make sure to protect yourself and handle the item carefully, as it might get dangerously hot during the process. If you’re lifting adhesive gunk from glass or ceramics, make sure they’re heat-resistant, as pouring hot water on them might break them. Needless to say, hot water is not the best approach when dealing with electronics, but then again, neither is dry heat. Normally, hair dryers shouldn’t produce enough heat at a 2-inch distance to damage hard plastic surfaces, but that will depend on which one you have. To be on the safe side, keep an eye on your work and stop immediately if you see any lifting, warping, or bubbling.

The post How to use science to remove sticker residue appeared first on Popular Science.

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Knowing how to find your IP address is a useful skill, even if you don’t know exactly what an IP address is or what it’s for. Whether you want to set up a new 3D printer or don’t want to sound ignorant while on the phone with your internet service provider, there are a couple of ways to easily get this information.

Get to know these methods in case you ever need them, and while you’re at it, maybe learn what this string of numbers is and why it’s important.

There’s a reason why Windows computers and some other devices have two IP addresses. Internet protocol version 4, also known as IPv4, is the original system invented back in 1980 to identify computers and other devices. But IPv4 only has 32 bits, which means there are only so many addresses available and not nearly enough for the hyperconnected future we live in today. Enter IPv6—the 64-bit solution that provides many more addresses to make space for all the new devices hitting the market every day. The problem is that the rollout of this 1998 protocol took a long time, and some older servers and programs are not compatible with it. This is why some devices use a workaround and have two IP addresses to bridge that gap and avoid any service interruptions. 

In general, an IP address is a unique series of numbers that identifies a device with the ability to connect to the internet. Every gadget has a private or internal IP address assigned by its manufacturer. If the internet were a town, this would be your home address. When you watch a movie on a streaming service, your device sends a request to whatever platform you’re using, which in turn knows where to send the reply (i.e. the movie) thanks to your IP address. This specific piece of data is very useful, which makes it very valuable. Treat it as your social security number and don’t disclose it.  

The post How to find your IP address whenever you need it appeared first on Popular Science.

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How to set up a passkey for your Google account

Remember that at the moment, passkeys are only available for individual users, so you won’t find them on any Google Workspace account. To see what all the fuss is about, go to your Google Account page, look to the left-hand sidebar, and go to Security.

Under How to sign in to Google, click on Passkeys, and provide your password before you make any changes—this may be the last time you use it. On the next screen, you’ll notice a blue button that says Start with passkeys. Click on it and you’re done: Google will create the necessary passkeys and automatically save your private one to your device. The next time you log in, you’ll need to provide one of the authentication methods you’ve already set up for your computer or phone: your face, your fingerprint, or a personal identification number (PIN). 

[Related: How to secure your Google account]

If you have Android devices signed into your account, you’ll see them listed on the passkey menu as well. Google will automatically create those passkeys for you, so you’ll be able to seamlessly access your information on those devices. 

You can also use passkeys as backups to authenticate a login on another computer or smartphone. If you’re signing into your account on a borrowed laptop, for example, you can validate that new session by choosing your phone from the list that pops up when you choose passkeys as your authentication method. Then just follow the prompts on your phone, and you’ll be good to go. 

Now, a word of caution

Apple-exclusive environments have it easy. The Cupertino company syncs users’ passkeys using the iCloud keychain, so your private keys will all live simultaneously on your MacBook, iPhone, and iPad, as long as you’re signed into the same iCloud account. Add a Windows computer or an Android phone to the mix and things start to get messy—you may need to use a second device to verify your identity. This is when the backup devices mentioned above may come in handy. 

The post Ditch your Google password and set up a passkey instead appeared first on Popular Science.

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Android users are proud of our devices’ versatility, but many of us have been low-key jealous of Apple’s AirDrop, which allows iPhones, iPads, and Mac computers to seamlessly swap files within a certain physical distance. Google, naturally, came up with its own version of the feature—Nearby Share—but until recently it was only available on the company’s operating system.

Thanks to a new beta app, anyone with an Android device can now also share photos and documents with Windows 10 and 11 computers. Consider this your sign to get your PC and your Google-powered phone closer than ever.  

You will, however, need to have the right app on your PC. You can download it by going to Android’s official website and clicking on Get started with Beta. As you might have noticed from the site, the Nearby Share link between Android and Windows is only a beta program at the moment. This means you might find some bugs, and things might change a bit between now and the moment the feature officially launches. Don’t be scared though, as beta programs are common and the fact they’re open to the public means you shouldn’t run into too many serious problems.

[Related: 5 security questions to ask before installing any app]

Once the app is installed, it will prompt you to sign into your Google account. If you have multiple, using a different account from the one on your phone won’t prevent you from sharing files, but it will add a few steps. When you’re using the same account on your phone and PC, Nearby Share will assume you’re sending files to yourself so the process will happen automatically. 

Keep in mind that this name will appear on the devices of the people you’re sharing files with, so if your personal computer is named something like “HELL_RAISER_PC,” you might want to opt for a neutral one if you plan to share stuff with professional contacts. 

Next, you’ll be able to set the visibility of your device by clicking the Receive from drop-down menu. It’ll be set by default to your contacts, meaning only people you’ve saved to your phone will be able to send you things. You can also opt to receive files from everyone, which will allow you to connect with all non-Apple phones and computers around you, or from your devices, which will make your PC visible only to gadgets signed into your Google account. Your last option is the more secure Device is hidden, which means you’ll have to manually change this setting every time you want to share anything through Nearby Share. 

Click the cog icon on the top right of the app’s interface to find more options. Under Save received files to you’ll be able to change the folder where Nearby Share items go—it’ll be set to your Downloads folder by default. Lastly, if you want to keep some privacy, toggle off the switch next to Send usage & diagnostics data, which will prevent Google from getting information on how you use this feature. 

From your PC, just drop a document into the open app or click on the Select files or Select folder links at the bottom of the interface. Once you do that, Nearby Share will list all eligible devices around you—pick the one you want to start the connection. If you’re sending and receiving from the same Google account, the process will be automatic, and you’ll get a notification on your phone to open the file either in Google Photos (if it’s an image) or in your phone’s Downloads folder. If the accounts don’t match, the same notification will prompt you to accept or reject the document.

[Related: Wireless sharing with Apple, Android, and Windows devices made easy]

Sending files from your phone to your PC is equally easy. Open a file in any app on your handheld device, tap Share or the share icon (a less-than symbol with circles on all points), and select Nearby. As long as your PC is unlocked, you’ll see its name on the screen—tap it and the transfer will begin either automatically or after you accept the emerging prompt on your computer screen. 

The post You can now use Android’s Nearby Share on PC appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

WITH A FEW infamous exceptions, it’s safe to say most of the content we see about children on social media has a positive spirit behind it. Your friend’s photo of their first sonogram and your cousin’s lengthy ramble about their toddler’s temper tantrums each come from a good place: the desire to mark a milestone, seek support, share happiness, or build community. But shifting the focus from the people who make the posts to the kids portrayed in them reveals a problem. 

The emotional, psychological, and developmental consequences of having one’s childhood—and all its growing pains—shared online are still unknown, as the first generation of kids conceived in the era of social media is only now coming of age. But studies and specialists are already warning that oversharing information about the kids in our lives might be fraught—both from an ethical and an online privacy point of view. 

“All of that seems innocuous, so you must be talking about influencers and mommy bloggers posting photos and videos of their children 24/7,” I hear you saying. Nope. Sharenting goes beyond the people making a profit off the content they share—the possibility of exploitation and what some may consider digital child labor is only a fraction of the problem. 

Think of it this way: A lot of the time, the kids in social media posts haven’t consented to having their picture or video taken and seen by people they know, let alone millions of others around the world. And even if they say it’s OK, they’re children. We cannot expect them to fully grasp the consequences of having their likeness and sensitive information posted online. Even educated adults have a hard time figuring out what terms and conditions and privacy policies mean, or gauging the social and psychological effects of broadcasting their lives. 

The obvious negative consequences of sharenting are the criminal and illegal activities it can lead to. Consider a post made by a new parent that includes a photo of their newborn, the kid’s full name and date of birth, and the name of the hospital. All that information will probably still be there when that infant becomes an adult, readily available for anyone who wants to bypass the security questions for one of their online accounts. And problems won’t wait for adulthood: A 2011 Carnegie Mellon CyLab study found that child identity theft was 51 times more common than adult identity theft. This is likely because a child’s identity is a clean slate with no credit history, Harvard Law School faculty member Leah Plunkett says in her book Sharenthood. 

Then there’s the possibility that the pictures you took of your child’s bath or your niece’s gymnastics tournament will end up on the wrong side of the internet. In 2015, an investigation by Australia’s children e-safety commissioner found that one image-sharing website for pedophiles contained at least 45 million files and “about half the material appeared to be sourced directly from social media.” 

Beyond these clear risks, the effects of sharenting on the psychosocial development of children are unclear. Data is scarce as we wait for the first children raised on social media to become adults, says Stacey Steinberg, a professor at the University of Florida Levin College of Law and author of Growing Up Shared. “Research, for the most part, is anecdotal—it is desperately needed,” she says. In her book, Plunkett theorizes that sharenting may thwart a child’s essential ability to explore, and that long-lasting posts may alter their personal narrative and sense of self, as many people they meet will go online and learn about them.

“Most parents do not overshare because they are trying to be malicious,” Steinberg says. “Most just have not yet considered the importance of their child’s digital footprint.” On the contrary, adults generally sharent with good intentions. Studies show sharenting is a way for parents to find validation and social support, and to help each other in an increasingly isolating landscape for child rearing. So instead of stopping everything and eliminating even the benefits of sharenting, Plunkett suggests four ways to post about the kids in your life in a more responsible way.

This is why getting kids involved in the decision-making process before you post something online can be formative in their digital education. Steinberg advocates giving children veto power over what you post about them online. Meanwhile, Plunkett says doing research with them and explaining—in a developmentally appropriate way—how social media works “models and supports practical and ethical digital citizenship.” This could also help them grow into adults who know the consequences of oversharing and have healthier relationships with online platforms. But whatever approach you take, keep in mind that as the only grown-up in this situation, you’re the one making the call to share or not to share. Kids are minors, and by definition, they cannot grant informed consent. 

It helps to think about children not as a source of entertainment or an opportunity to harvest likes, but as individuals who will one day face the consequences of our decisions to share moments of their lives. You might think you shared something silly or cute, like a video of them falling asleep on the toilet when they were three, but for them it may turn into a social debacle in the school cafeteria. Or maybe you run into an issue with something else—something you can’t even think of right now—that prevents them from getting into the college of their dreams. That’s the scary part: the not knowing. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: Read this before sharing another photo of a kid online appeared first on Popular Science.

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Disk space is always at a premium, so you should take every opportunity to free up as much of it as you can. One of the best ways to do this is to back up a bunch of files to the cloud, then remove them from your computer entirely.

Stashing your data in the cloud will allow you to access your files while still having hard drive space on your computer. The process is relatively easy, but don’t let this be your only form of backup: keep your files on another cloud service or an external hard drive (or two) in case something catastrophic happens.

Cloud storage and syncing apps can help you manually choose which files live locally on your computer, but they can also do the job automatically. In some cases, you can keep a folder online-only, but still have placeholders for its contents on your hard drive. As soon as you try to access them, they’ll download from the cloud and open as normal.

All these services also have web interfaces, which allow you to log in and view your files on any computer with a web browser and an internet connection. In some cases, web access might be all you need.

When deciding what kind of files to store where, think of the cloud as your basement—a place where you store things you don’t want to throw away, but wouldn’t keep in the middle of your living room. As such, it’s best to make older files and folders online-only—those you want to keep backed up but don’t need to access regularly, such as vacation photos and videos. You should locally store any files you constantly need access to, especially if you can’t rely on internet connectivity.

To make some files online-only, right-click on the OneDrive icon (a cloud) in the Windows taskbar notification area, then choose Help & Settings and open up the Settings tab. Go to Sync and backup, then open the Advanced settings. Finally, locate Files On-Demand and select Download files as you use them.

You’ll find there are three types of files in OneDrive. First, there are online-only documents, which you’ll recognize by the blue cloud badge that sits on top of the file icon in File Explorer. These live in the cloud, but open normally as long as you have an internet connection. The second type are locally available files, which have a green check mark on them and live both on your device and in the cloud. Finally, there are locally stored files. These are marked by a white check mark in a green circle and they stay on your computer no matter what.

The last two types are practically the same, and you’ll be able to open and edit them normally, even if you’re offline. The only difference is that locally available files will automatically become online-only after a set period of time if you enable a Windows 10 and 11 feature called Storage sense, which uploads files to the cloud when you’re running out of space on your computer.

OneDrive will handle some of this automatically (by downloading files when you open them, for example), but you can also manually set up what the platform does with specific files and folders by right-clicking on them in File Explorer.

How to save space with iCloud

Apple has two different storage systems: iCloud and iCloud Drive. The first one syncs information on your Mac devices, including music and videos purchased through the iTunes Store, plus contacts, calendars, and pictures. The second, iCloud Drive, is Apple’s version of OneDrive or Dropbox. You can install it on Apple and non-Apple tech, use it to store any file or folder, sync that data across devices, and share your files with anyone.

To see how much of your iCloud storage you’re using on your Mac, open the Apple menu, choose About This Mac, click More info, and scroll down to click Storage Settings. Under Recommendations, you’ll see a Store in iCloud button. Click it, and you’ll have the option to save all the files and documents from your Desktop and Documents folders in the cloud so you can access them from any Apple device where you’re signed in with your Apple ID. You can also move all your messages to the cloud rather than storing them locally.

Under Optimize Storage, click Optimize to remove any local iTunes movies and TV shows you’ve got on your Mac that are marked as watched—you can always download them again if you need to. 

Finally, open System Settings, go to the Apple ID tab, and choose iCloud. If you toggle the switch next to Optimize Mac Storage, macOS will start to clear your hard drive of older files you haven’t opened in a while, whenever you start to run out of space. These files won’t disappear from iCloud and you can always redownload them.

This feature will let you uncheck some or all of the folders in your Dropbox to prevent the platform from downloading and syncing them to your computer. If you uncheck a folder, it will disappear from that device, but will remain in the cloud and on any other computers you’re using Dropbox with. You can follow the same path and undo this preference if you want to restore access and syncing capabilities to certain folders. 

Then there’s the feature formerly known as Smart Sync, which is only available to paying Dropbox customers. It works like Selective Sync but it’s more automatic: it lets you move files to the cloud, making them online-only, but the platform will put placeholders for them in the Dropbox folder on your computer. You can easily view online-only documents when you’re offline, but if you need to edit them, you’ll need an internet connection to download them. Changes will sync to the cloud, but if you want to keep the file online-only after that, you’ll need to manually enable the feature again.

[Related: 6 essential Dropbox tools you might be missing]

To make a file or folder online-only, go to your Dropbox folder, right-click on the file or folder you want to only store in the cloud and choose Make online-only. You can also make all new files online-only by default: go to Dropbox Preferences, click Sync, open the dropdown menu next to New files default, and select Online-only.

The post Free up space on your laptop by moving all your files to the cloud appeared first on Popular Science.

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When you finally decide to settle in and figure out how to roll a joint, it will seem simple enough—until you try and realize it’s way more complicated than you expected. Even when you succeed, you’ll discover there’s a huge difference between a joint that holds together and one that’s actually good.

We’re not going to lie: it’s a long way between weed wrapped in a piece of paper and your first properly rolled joint. But everyone’s got to start somewhere, and the right tips and tricks can help you make joints with precisely ground cannabis within perfectly rolled rice paper. Consider this guide the first stop on your trip to better trips. Just make sure marijuana use is legal where you are before you start rolling.

Rolling paper

It’s easy to get overwhelmed by all the paper options you’ll see online or at your local smoke shop, but there are some characteristics you’ll want to look out for. 

“The most important factor in choosing a paper is getting the thinnest one, so you can taste the flower better,” says Ta’Lor (who prefers to go only by her first name), a budtender at The Astor Club, a hidden cannabis smoke lounge in New York City.   

[Related: Can you overdose on weed?]

Ta’Lor, who’s the weed equivalent of a sommelier, recommends rice paper from popular brands such as OCB and Vibes. Ali Jamalian, founder and owner of Sunset Connect, a cannabis product manufacturer in California, says your choice of paper will be personal preference, but that thin rice paper is a great place to start. 

Then there’s size. Some brands have several dimensions to choose from but if you want to make a classic cone-shaped joint, you’ll need king-size paper. The exact length will depend on the brand, but it’ll always be somewhere around 10 centimeters, which is a little under 4 inches. 

Tips

You can definitely roll a joint without a tip, or choose your favorite from a large range of materials, from glass to cotton—it’s all personal preference. That said, both Jamalian and Ta’Lor advise using a tip, and recommend beginners stick to the classic cardboard ones. Glass is a bit too heavy and cotton requires a stronger draw. 

Tips play multiple roles in smoking. The first is to provide a barrier between you and the cannabis, which will prevent weed from getting into your mouth. They will also save you from charring your lips and fingers as you finish your joint. Finally, a tip will be indispensable while rolling a joint, as it will provide structure and shape.  

You can buy a bag of pre-rolled tips or a booklet of perforated tips you can roll yourself. Both offer about the same smoking experience, and the one you choose will come down to personal preference. The main difference between these two types of products is cost—a few cents per tip depending on brand and quantity. Buying in bulk, of course, is cheaper. 

If you don’t have a tip, Jamalian says you can use whatever piece of soft cardboard you have at home as long as it’s not laminated or printed on. But the budtenders at The Astor Club are even more cautious.

“Honestly, if you don’t have a tip, don’t use one, because you don’t necessarily know what paper you’re gonna be burning,” says Ta’lor. Her coworker, Calia, who also prefers to go by her first name, agrees: “When high heat hits something and then enters your lungs, you’re smoking those particles and that could affect you in the long run. We’re already smoking—you want to keep your smoke as clean as possible.” 

Other than rolling paper and tips, the sources we talked to recommended having a rolling tray and a good grinder at hand. You can use almost anything as a rolling tray (a plate, a cutting board, or an actual tray), but make sure you clean it before every use. Its main purpose is to catch any weed that falls out while you roll—and that will happen if you’re a beginner. Since you’ll either put that cannabis back into your joint or smoke it later, you don’t want there to be any crumbs, dust, or gunk that could eventually make it into your lungs or ruin the taste of good weed. 

Calia stresses that contrary to popular belief, grinders are absolutely reusable, and if you think it’s not shredding as well as it used to, it probably just needs a good cleaning. She suggests separating the grinder into as many pieces as possible and letting them soak in alcohol for a day. To clean hard spots or difficult nooks and crannies, like the rim, she recommends using a paper towel with alcohol. 

Old weed will crumble to dust when you grind it, which, according to Ta’Lor, makes it harder to put into a joint. “When you roll with a really great, really fresh bud that sticks together and forms itself, it’s way easier,” she says. 

To test your cannabis, Ta’Lor says you should squeeze the bud between your thumb and index finger. If it bounces and there’s little to no fallout, you should be good to go. 

Instructions

1. (Optional) Roll your tip. If you’re using a pre-made tip, you can skip this step. Otherwise, start by ripping a tip from your booklet. If you chose tips with perforations, you’ll be able to make folds where the dotted lines are and roll the rest of the tip around that shape. 

If your tip doesn’t have any guides, you’ll need to pick the shape you want to start with—the classics are an “S” or a “W.” For either one, you’ll need to start by making a tiny fold of around 1/8 of an inch (around 3 millimeters) on one of the short ends of the paper and then make an equal fold in the opposite direction: it should feel like you’re folding a very tiny accordion. 

2. De-stem your cannabis and grind it. A king-size paper should be big enough to roll a gram of weed, which is approximately two to three buds, depending on the size. Starting with that amount is a good baseline, but don’t be surprised if you can’t fit it all in there at first—more on that later. 

Take a close look at your buds and pick out any stems you might find. These will not only ruin your joint by possibly puncturing the paper or interrupting an otherwise even burn, Ta’Lor says, but might also damage your grinder in the long run. If it’s plastic, a stem might break the little teeth inside, and if it’s metal, it might blunt them quicker.

All of our experts agree that the cannabis you want in a joint should be on the finer side but not totally pulverized. The latter is more likely to happen if you’re grinding old weed. If you’re nervous about overgrinding, check on it as you go.

3. Clean your cannabis. Dump the weed onto your rolling tray (or whatever you’re using as one) and lightly roll it between your fingers. You’ll be feeling it out for any particles that are not supposed to be there: stems you might have missed in the previous step, plastic teeth or bits that might have broken off your grinder, seeds, and seed shells. 

“When seeds pop—oh, it’s the worst smell in the world. You don’t want that in your joint,” says Calia. 

4. Set up your paper. When you tug your rolling paper out of its packaging, you’ll notice it has a crease. This is where you’ll place the cannabis. Position the paper, making sure the glue line is on the inside of the folded paper and facing you the entire time. Handle the paper with both hands by placing the tips of your index fingers on the inside of the crease and using your middle fingers and thumbs on the outer sides of the paper. Your thumbs and index fingers should hold the paper tight, while your middle fingers act as supports to keep the glue side of the paper upright. 

Before you place any weed on the paper, get a feel for tension—the paper should be taut, but not so much that it feels like it’s going to rip. If it does (and the budtenders at The Astor Club say this will happen a couple of times) don’t get discouraged—just grab another paper and try again until you establish some muscle memory. 

• Pro tip: Take the folded paper between your thumbs and index fingers and roll it up and down to curl it along the crease, leaving a margin of around 1/8 of an inch on each side. This will give the paper more of a “U” shape that might help you roll the joint later. If the paper keeps slipping and you need more grip, lightly wet the tips of your index finger and thumb. If you lose any trace of the original crease, find it again by rolling the paper so that the front side facing you is only slightly below the glue line on the back side. 

5. Add your tip. With the paper between your fingers as explained in the previous step, choose a side to place your tip—this will be the bottom of the joint. A lot of people choose their dominant hand side, Jamalian says, but you should do whatever feels comfortable. For example, even though he is right-handed, he likes to place the tip on the left side of his joints. 

Put the tip on the paper so both edges are aligned, and use the index, middle finger, and thumb on one hand to keep it in place. 

• Pro tip: If you have a hard time keeping the tip in place, slightly lift the loose end of your tip and slide a half an inch of the paper into the roll. Finish by slightly rolling the tip upward. This will prevent the tip from moving around and will provide structure, which will later make the rolling easier. If you’re rolling a straight joint, though, this technique will leave you with less space to put your cannabis in and will make it a bit harder to pack it tightly toward the tip. If you want to create a cone shape, insert the rolling paper into the tip at a slight angle.

6. Add the cannabis. With your fingers holding the tip in place inside the rolling paper, use your other hand to put the weed in. From time to time, stop to secure it in place and pinch the joint to give it shape. Using fresh cannabis will make this a lot easier, as it’ll stick to itself and quickly take whatever shape you give it. 

Make sure you get rid of any air pockets, especially around where the cannabis and the tip meet. Any empty space will make for an uneven burn, creating what is known in the weed world as a canoe: when one side of the paper burns before the other because there’s nothing there to stop the heat from consuming the paper. This not only wastes cannabis, but will also ruin your experience as the smoke from the burning paper will alter the taste of your weed. 

Take your time shaping your joint. The ultimate goal is to pack it tight and evenly, which will come more easily with practice, Calia says. If you notice cannabis falling onto your tray from the top of the joint, Jamalian suggests you leave it there for the time being. “Beginners should know it’s totally ok to have half of it fall out while you’re learning. Eventually, it’ll stop happening,” he says. 

7. Roll your joint. Now is the moment you’ve been waiting for: the rolling. Using your middle fingers as support, use your indexes and thumbs to roll the front side of the paper down so it can only cover the weed and tip. 

Reposition your index fingers to cover the insides of the joint with the front side of the paper and slightly roll it up upward. This is by far the hardest part: Your goal is to securely tuck the front side of the paper between the cannabis and the back of the paper as tightly as possible, so you can continue rolling up. While you try this, you’ll probably lose a lot of the tension you’ve been building up to this point, so don’t be afraid to go back and forth until you get the tucking right. Just know that it’s OK if you can’t make it as tight as you want: this is all part of the process and it’ll become easier with practice.

Once the front of the paper is tucked behind the cannabis as tightly as you can, release your index fingers and continue rolling your joint up to the glue line. Finish by licking the line and securing the joint by rolling it until the end. 

8. Pack your joint. It’s possible that your joint is still not nearly as tight as you’d like it to be, but that’s OK. First, it’s part of learning, and second, you can still make it a bit tighter if you want. 

Pick up your joint by its tip and light tap it against a flat surface. Gravity will push the cannabis farther down. Here you can also pick up some of that fallout from Step 6 and put it back into the joint. Use your fingers to fit as much of it as you can through the opening at the top, and then use a toothpick, a slim pencil, or any sort of thin tube to gently push it down. You’ll want to be delicate and work slowly, as any aggressive move can throw away all the effort you’ve made so far to roll a quality joint. 

9. Finish by twisting the top. When you feel like you cannot put more cannabis into your joint and it’s as tight as it’ll ever be, it’s time to close up shop and enjoy. Use your index finger and thumb to twist the paper at the top of your joint. The more you twist, the farther down you’ll push the weed, so be careful not to do it too much—you might rip the paper. 

If you had a lot of paper left over and now you have a long tail at the top of your joint, you can cut it before you light up.

[Related: Is growing weed sustainable? The answer is complicated.]

Everyone we spoke to emphasized that a lot of personal preference goes into rolling a joint. If you later find that something in this guide doesn’t apply to you, go ahead and change it up. They also underscored the importance of being patient and practicing. At the end of the day, there’s a reason why there are so many tutorials on how to roll a joint: as simple as it looks, it’s definitely not easy. So do it repeatedly and try new implements now and then. It’ll serve as a helpful learning experience, but also a process where you find out what you really like in the end.

The post A step-by-step guide to rolling a joint appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you’ve upgraded your Apple devices to iOS 16, iPadOS 16, or macOS Ventura 13, you may have seen a new app floating around. It’s the collaborative Freeform, and it’s essentially a blank canvas. You just have to know how to make it come alive. 

The tool was announced at the 2022 Worldwide Developers Conference and hit iPhones, iPads, and Macs six months later. You can use it for brainstorming, journaling, stylized note-keeping, or just plain old doodling. Freeform, as its name suggests, lets you do pretty much whatever you want, but if you get a bit overwhelmed, we’ve chosen five ways to start exploring the app. 

1. Create customized shapes

Just like Google Slides and Microsoft PowerPoint before it, Apple’s Freeform has a wide range of shape presets you can use as if they were digital stamps. You can browse the available options by tapping the shapes icon at the top of the screen—it looks like a square in front of a circle. Choose a category by sliding their names to the left or right along the top of the window, select the shape you want, and move it around the canvas as you see fit. You’ll be able to easily resize it and change its color by tapping on it and tweaking the options on the emerging menu. 

Out of all the available categories, Basic (which you’ll find all the way to the left) has the fewest shapes to pick from, but it offers many more customization options. For example, choose a star and notice that, when you select it on the canvas, two green dots appear on top of it. The one closest to the center of the shape will allow you to edit its radius—slide it all the way inward to get a small star with very long points; slide it all the way out outward to get a decagon. 

[Related: Right on cue, Apple Music Classical is here to liven up your music library]

You can use the other green dot as a dial to edit the number of points on your star—slide it clockwise to get up to 20 points, and counterclockwise to go as low as three. Using these two functions, you’ll be able to create a wide range of stars and sparks to customize your canvas. 

All shapes in the Basic category will have one or more green dots: the ones on dialogue bubbles allow you to round up corners and play around with the shape and width of its point, while the one on arrows will let you adjust the thickness of the shaft. 

2. Add descriptions for a more accessible Freeform file

To make your Freeform canvas more accessible, you can write descriptions for each item you add to it. This allows Apple’s VoiceOver to help people with visual impairments navigate Freeform documents by using Siri to describe what’s on the screen.  

To create a description, tap on any element on your canvas. From the emerging menu, tap the three dots on the right to see more options. Pick Description, and a text box will emerge where you can add details about the selected element. You can do this at any time and can always go back to edit your description as necessary. 

3. Break shapes apart

While the elements in the Basic category are the most customizable, the “break apart” function will let you play around with shapes in other categories as well. 

As you might imagine, this option lets you treat each piece of a shape independently, so you can color, resize, reshape, and relocate them around your canvas. This feature is not available for all shapes though—you’ll only find it associated with objects made from multiple, smaller pieces. 

To use it, pick a breakable shape. The Geometry category, for example, has a bunch of fun ones you can choose from. Insert the element into your canvas, tap it, go to the three-dot menu, and choose Break Apart. Immediately, Freeform will give each piece of the shape its own customizable features. Notice that once you tap the option, all the pieces will be selected, so trying to move one will move all of them. Deselect everything by tapping on blank space, then tap a piece individually to work on it. As with any shape, you can tug the corners of the selected piece to resize it and tap on it to summon a menu that will let you add an outline, change its color, and even add text on top of it. 

4. Use Freeform in Split View

Apple introduced Split View for iPadOS in 2015, and four years later expanded support for it to macOS. The feature allows you to use two apps at once, and if both are native to the company’s ecosystem, you can seamlessly drag elements from one to the other. 

Using Freeform in tandem with Apple’s Photo app, for example, allows you to insert images and videos from your local storage. To open Split View on an iPad, open Freeform and tap the three dots at the very top of the screen and choose Split View from the emerging menu. On a Mac computer, open Freeform and hover over the green button in the top left corner of the window. Then, from the emerging menu, choose either Tile window to the left of screen or Tile window to the right of screen, depending on what you want. On both operating systems, your screen will unsurprisingly split in two, and on the second half you’ll see your desktop (macOS) or your home screen (iPadOS), where you’ll be able to choose the Photos app. 

From there, you can use the grid view on Photos to choose whatever item you want to use in Freeform and just drag it into place. As you’d expect, you’ll be able to reposition and resize it however you want. Opening other native Apple programs will give you similar options. For example, open Notes and you’ll be able to select text or images and drag them into Freeform.

5. Select multiple elements at once

Your Freeform canvas will likely get pretty busy pretty quickly. With all the shapes and color options you get, plus anything you scribble on your iPad with the Apple Pencil, being able to edit elements in bulk can make your work a lot easier. 

[Related: Which iPhone 14 should you pick for your next upgrade?]

To do this, tap and hold on an item, then use your free hand to select other elements. Once you’re done, let go of your selection and tap it again to see what you can do with it. Tap the three-dot menu and go to Select Objects to add more elements to the group—this comes in handy if you realize you forgot something and you’ve already let go of your selection. Just tap on anything you want to add and finish by touching Done.

The post 5 ways to get started with Freeform, Apple’s app for creative thinkers appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

IT MAY SEEM as if websites suddenly started displaying banners telling us they were using cookies and asking if we were cool with it. Maybe you didn’t think too much about it—just clicked “accept all” and moved on. And maybe that’s what you’ve been doing ever since.

But you really should stop and think about it. We’ve been dealing with these notifications for almost five years now, and some folks still don’t know what it means to accept or reject all cookies, or even what those yummy-sounding files do. Tech companies don’t make it easy to understand either (perhaps on purpose). But consent isn’t really consent if we don’t know what we’re saying yes to.

Cookies 101

It’s right there in the Cheers theme song: Sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name. And if the internet were your friendly neighborhood bar, having folks greet you and hand you your favorite drink before you order would be possible only with cookies.  

These small text files are generated on websites and saved in your browser. When you return to a site, the page will retrieve the relevant cookies from your computer to provide a more seamless experience—your preferences will be the same as the last time you were there, the weather information will match your location, and the shoes you were not so sure about two nights ago will still be waiting in your virtual shopping cart. These cookies, also known as HTTP or first-party cookies, are incredibly convenient, and since they’re typically a data transaction between you and the website you’re visiting, they’re mostly harmless (unless a hacker intercepts them via an unsecured website or public WiFi network, but that’s rare).

Cookies in general get a bad rap because of one type: third-party cookies. These are usually generated not by the website you’re visiting but by the advertising networks and data brokers working within that site. These cookies are designed to gather marketable information about you (what you like, what catches your eye, what ads you click on) that can be used to sell you stuff. This data can also be sold to other actors, potentially with nefarious results. “That’s part of the magic of big data,” says Carissa Véliz, author of the book Privacy is Power. “It draws out inferences that we would’ve never guessed. So it’s very hard to predict what the consequences are for sharing that personal data.”  

What’s worse is that third-party cookies can track you across the internet. Let’s say you are a stylish baseball fan with a weakness for high-quality perfume. So you wake up, and the first thing you do is go to your favorite sports website to check the scores of yesterday’s games. Two hours later, while on a break between meetings, you browse a perfume blog to read a review. What you don’t know is that the ads on the sports website were managed by the same company that showed you ads on the blog, so now the advertising network knows you’re willing to splurge on a nice woody scent and also good seats for the next Mets game. Because advertising networks work with countless websites, those third-party cookies keep adding up, feeding more data to advertisers and their clients.

What European law has to do with everyone’s cookie notifications

When the European Parliament approved the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) in 2018, this bill teamed up with previous regulation to, in part, give EU citizens the right to be informed about a website’s use of any unnecessary cookies, consent to the tracking and use of their data, withdraw that consent whenever they want, and access platforms even after rejecting all cookies. What makes the GDPR different from earlier rules is that it protects EU citizens no matter where they are, where tech companies are headquartered, or where data is processed.  

[Related: When it comes to privacy, smart devices are not the smarter choice]

Because there’s no way to determine if a user is an EU citizen, and running two versions of a website is hard and expensive, tech companies avoided million-dollar fines by adopting a “better safe than sorry” approach, which meant they started asking everyone for consent to use cookies on their websites. That resulted in everyone in the world getting a bit more control over their data online. But know this: Unless you’re an EU citizen, or some other privacy regulation applies to you (like the California Privacy Rights Act), you do not have the right to withdraw consent when it comes to tech companies or data brokers collecting and using your data. Jon Callas, director of public interest technology at the Electronic Frontier Foundation, says some companies, like Twitter and Apple, decided to make things easier for everyone by providing GDPR rights to all their users no matter their nationality. But those are the exceptions. In most cases, if you’ve consented to data collection, a company can use whatever it already has on you however it likes—no law allows you to demand the immediate and total deletion of that data just because you want to. 

You can, however, turn off the informational faucet and sever websites’ access to more of your data. 

The best cookies are the ones you choose

Start by clearing the cache on your browser. This will get rid of all the cookies currently stored on your device and will prompt websites to ask you about cookies again, giving you a chance for a semifresh start. The steps will be different depending on your browser, but you can check out our guide to clearing cookies and web history on all the major browsers. 

With a clean slate in your browser, you’ll want to be more selective when it comes to consenting to cookies in the future. When deciding whether to accept cookies, the fastest, easiest, and most secure answer is to always reject them all. Most of the time, you’ll have to dig into the pop-up banner’s options and find your way to the right button, but you can also use your browser’s settings to reject all cookies from all websites all the time.

You’ll notice most browsers will try to warn you against rejecting all cookies. This is not only because doing so will prevent them from serving you personalized ads and will make your online experience a little less streamlined. They warn you because some websites were built with cookies in mind, and rejecting them all may result in glitches or limited functionality. This is where you must gauge your personal situation and decide what level of risk you’re comfortable with. 

After you reject all cookies, most sites will still be fully functional, just slightly harder to use than you’re used to. You may have to set your preferences every time you visit a page, remember your username, and scroll down to the exact point where you left off reading that lengthy article at lunch. Maybe that sounds like a price you’re willing to pay to protect your data from malicious third parties, but it may also sound absolutely unbearable. Neither response is wrong—you just have to do what’s best for you.

If banning all cookies forever seems right for you, follow these steps:

• On Chrome: Settings > Privacy and security > Cookies and other site data > check the box next to Block all cookies.
• On Safari: Settings > Privacy > check the box next to Block all cookies.
• On Firefox: Settings > Privacy & security > find Enhanced tracking protection > choose Custom > find Cookies > open the drop-down menu > All cookies.
• On Microsoft Edge: Settings > Privacy, search, and services, find Tracking prevention > Strict.

Microsoft’s browser is different in that it doesn’t let you block all cookies, only “the majority” of them “from all sites.” This doesn’t give you a lot of control over or transparency about what cookies Edge is actually blocking—but this may just be its way to prevent some sites from breaking without them.

Not willing to live in a cookie-free world but still want to protect your data? You’ll likely need to take time to personalize your privacy settings whenever you visit a new website. There’s no one way to do this, as every website is different. But the main strategy is to reject anything that says “tracker,” “third-party,” “targeting,” or “social media” next to it. 

You’ll also have to beware of dark patterns—weaponized web design elements meant to sway your behavior one way or another, sometimes without you noticing. For example, placing a big, noticeable “accept all” button next to a tiny link in a noncontrasting color that says “reject all” is a dark pattern. These can be even more subtle, like when your only options are “accept all” or “edit preferences.” “It’s not giving you the choice of ‘yes’ versus ‘no’—they’re making you look for ‘no’ so you’re more likely to click ‘yes,’” says Callas. “Close” or “X” buttons may also be considered a dark pattern. Because these notifications act as a final hurdle between you and the content you’re interested in, it’s natural for you to click that “X” as soon as possible to get past the banner. But some sites might consider that consenting by omission. Callas says some websites are explicit about this, but others might not tell you what you’re actually doing when you close the disclosure notice without making a choice. That would not be considered proper consent under GDPR, but Callas says some might be willing to take the risk: “The websites are gaming the rules to get the most information out of you, because information is money.” 

Keep in mind that the GDPR forces companies to provide options only when there are unnecessary cookies involved. So if you stumble upon a page that is not explicitly asking for your consent, that’s because there’s nothing to consent to—only information about the site’s use of HTTP or first-party cookies.

As with most things in life, there’s no right or wrong answer to the cookie dilemma. If you find value in targeted ads and are OK with companies potentially abusing the data they collect, you can accept all cookies forever. But there is certainly a middle ground where it’s possible to enjoy a streamlined experience online and still keep your data out of the reach of bad actors. Tech companies don’t make it easy (privacy policies are somehow both dense and vague, Véliz says), which makes us wonder if the GDPR-given right to consent is real and not an illusion. Whichever the case, one thing is still true: Those cookie notifications can be annoying, but they sure are better than nothing.

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: When you should and shouldn’t accept a website’s cookies appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you’ve owned a PC, you may think you have no need for Microsoft Word tips. After all, it’s been around for 40 years, surely all of its secrets have long since been laid bare. Boy, do we have news for you.

Whether you use Word all the time or only open it when you need to dust off your resume, you’ll need to wade a little deeper beyond bolding and underlining to truly get the most out of it. Luckily for you, we dipped our pan into the river of options and pulled out some advice that’s pure gold.

If you’re more inclined to design documents rather than write them, or like to procrastinate on drafts by messing around with the page format, you can use lorem ipsum in Word. You don’t even have to open a menu—just type =Lorem() somewhere on the page, hit Enter, and you’re all set. 

By default, the command will create five short paragraphs of text. If that’s not enough for you, you can tell Word how many you want by adding a number inside the parentheses. So, if you want 12 paragraphs, type =Lorem(12), and enjoy your free text.  

You can add a timestamp to a document by going to the Insert tab and clicking the Insert date and time tool—it’s a small icon showing a calendar with a clock on top, to the left of the Equation button. 

In the emerging window, you’ll be able to choose from a long list of time formats, such as the classic two-digit “month/day/year,” or even one that includes the exact second you inserted it into the document. By default, this function will be static unless you check the box right below the list next to Update automatically. Once you’re done, click OK and you’ll be good to go. 

If you collaborate with people in other countries or are working in a language other than your system’s default language, the Insert date and time window will provide a dropdown menu where you’ll be able to change the lingo and the date format options with it. Microsoft will immediately show you the languages you have added to your operating system, so if you need to use one that’s not listed there, you’ll need to add it through Settings, followed by Time & language (Windows), or System Settings > General > Language & Region (macOS).

Go to the Insert tab, click on Shapes, and choose the squiggle under Lines. This will allow you to use your cursor as a pen to draw your signature, which you’ll then be able to move throughout the document and even copy/cut and paste it whenever you want. Of course, drawing your signature with a mouse is not the easiest or most comfortable task, but it’ll get easier with a little bit of practice. 

On the other hand, if you’re signing an important document and cannot bear the sight of your shaky signature sitting there for all of time, there’s another option. If you’re a Office 365 subscriber and have a PC, you can use your trackpad to sign using the Draw feature. 

Go to the Draw tab and turn on the toggle switch above Draw with trackpad. Word will show you a rectangular area on screen—fill it by drawing on your trackpad with your finger. You don’t have to press down or anything, just slide your digit around. Use two fingers to move the area to another place on the screen (useful if you need to check a box) and press any key when you’re done. Your scribbles will then behave like objects you can resize and copy/cut and paste across the document. 

With words already on the page, go to Tools, Spelling and Grammar, and select Editor. A sidebar will appear to the right of your screen showing you an overall score for your writing and three areas where you can improve: Spelling, Grammar, and Conciseness. Click on each one to see Word’s suggestions. Keep in mind that this is only a program, so it’s perfectly possible that some of its recommendations don’t make sense to you at all. If that’s the case, you can choose to ignore them.

At the bottom of the sidebar is where the magic happens: click on Document stats, and after a couple seconds you’ll see a window with details about your document, like the number of words and sentences, and the average characters per word. 

But the really fun part is under Readability. There, Word will show you your text’s score based on the Flesch Reading Ease and the Flesch-Kincaid Grade Level indexes. Respectively, these systems aim to determine how easy it is to read a document, and what school grade reading level your audience should have to fully and easily understand it.

In the case of the reading ease score, the higher the number, the easier it is to understand. In general, you want whatever you write to be between 70 and 80, which means it should be fairly easy for the average adult to understand. The Flesch-Kincaid index, meanwhile, uses the US education system’s grade levels as its parameters, and can help you gauge whether your text suits your audience—if you’re speaking at an academic conference, for example, a high score won’t be a problem. 

From the top of the page to the paragraph above, Word says this story has a readability score of 65, which is not ideal, but this is why we still have human editors. (If you were wondering, the score improved after my editor worked on it.)

You probably use shortcuts like Shift + arrow to select text character by character, and Shift + Option + arrow (Mac) or Shift + Control + arrow (Windows) to go at it word by word. If you’re a butcher editor, you might just triple-click on a paragraph to select and kill the whole thing. But Word offers yet another option: selecting a single sentence with one click. The trick is to hold Command (Mac) or Control (Windows) while you do it. 

This is incredibly useful if you’re revising a particularly long document, or are in the last stages of editing, when changes may be scarce and far removed from one another. 

You see, most things in a document have a character, even the space between paragraphs. If you need to see what you’re dealing with, you can ask Microsoft to show you by hitting Command + 8 (Mac) or Ctrl + Shift + 8 (Windows). When you do, you’ll see a bunch of new characters appear in a different color. Some of the most common are a suspended point between words, which stands for a single space, and a left-facing “P”, which means there’s a single paragraph break. 

You probably won’t use this shortcut with simple documents, but if you use a template you found on Word or online, it might help you understand what’s wrong if the file starts misbehaving. 

Depending on the version of Word you have, you may find this option by clicking File, Info, and then Protect document. The following menu will give you a list of things you can do, like restricting editing or only giving certain people access to the file. But if you want to go a more secure route, choose Encrypt with password and follow the instructions. 

But all that freedom sometimes makes it hard to tell if the graphs you’re adding to your yearly report are actually aligned properly. And you’ve spent too many hours working to let an image ruin your day. 

To make sure everything’s where it needs to be, use a grid. Under the Layout tab, click Align, and from the dropdown menu choose View gridlines. This option will immediately overlay a grid on the working area of your page, which you can use as a reference to see exactly where to place objects or make sure they’re all the same size. On the Align menu, you can also click Grid settings to customize options like what area of the page objects will snap to or the size of the grid. When you’re done, click OK to save your settings. 

The post 10 Microsoft Word tips you need to learn right now appeared first on Popular Science.

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When choosing a messaging app, it’s easy to just fall in line with whatever your friends and family have on their phones. Whether or not the platform is secure isn’t often a major factor in the decision. But maybe it should be, given the sheer amount of sensitive information we share with our contacts every day.

Not all messaging apps are the same, especially when it comes to your privacy and security. If you’re in the market for a more secure messaging app, we can help. The web is wide and diverse, and there are plenty of platforms that will satisfy your texting needs without asking you to disclose everything about yourself. It’s just a matter of looking.

You’ll be on your own when talking everyone else into moving to another platform, but we believe in you.

Signal is free, open-source, and operated by The Signal Foundation—a non-profit with a mission to “develop open source privacy technology.” Brian Acton, one of WhatsApp’s founders, left Facebook (reportedly on bad terms) after the company acquired his platform, and donated $50 million to create the foundation. It’s one of the main reasons users trust the app, as there’s no big tech company behind it.

The platform supports texting, video and voice calls, as well as file-sharing. Privacy-wise, you can set your messages to self-destruct at any time from one second after they’re read to four weeks after you send them. End-to-end (E2E) encryption protects everything you share through Signal by default, and the foundation says it doesn’t store any sensitive information. The US government subpoenaed user data in 2016, but authorities only got their hands on the dates accounts were created, dates of last connections, and phone numbers.

Of course, handing over a phone number to create an account—and automatically sharing it with anybody who might find you through the app—means you won’t be entirely anonymous. Signal’s developers say they’re thinking of a way around it, but as of writing, there’s no date or specific project in the works to resolve this.

WhatsApp also supports group chats with up to 1,024 members. The platform had a higher limit in the past, but that turned into a problem when the app became an effective tool for the propagation of misinformation and other illegal material. As a result, WhatsApp eventually limited the ability to forward messages and the size of group chats.

The app supports texting, voice and video calls, public channels, and file-sharing, with an interface highly similar to WhatsApp’s iOS appearance, so switching over from Meta’s messaging app should be seamless.

The lack of widespread E2E encryption is meant to give users instant access to backups on multiple devices, no matter when they joined a channel or group chat, Telegram says. Pavel Durov, one of the app’s founders, also argues that government agencies might target users using “niche apps” such as Signal, assuming that anyone opting for that high level of privacy has something to hide. Having less-secure encryption as the default, Telegram says, protects users from unwanted surveillance.

As opposed to WhatsApp, which uses third-party servers like iCloud or Google Drive to store backups—giving Apple and Google the ability to manage that information—Telegram’s backups are broken into pieces and live on its own servers around the world. It claims chats, no matter what type, are all secured the same way, but because Telegram technically also has access to the encryption key, they can decrypt your messages… even if they say the key and the data it decrypts are never in the same place. 

Even though Telegram emphasized its commitment to security by updating its privacy policy to protect the identity of Hong Kong protesters in 2019, that commitment should be taken with a grain of salt, according to Gennie Gebhart, acting activism director at the Electronic Frontier Foundation.

“Telegram doesn’t have a great track record of responding to high-risk users,” she says. “My impression is that a lot of Telegram’s ‘secure’ reputation comes from its association with the Hong Kong protests, but the app was also useful in that environment for a lot of specific reasons, like no phone number requirement or the support for massive groups.”

By default, messages (or “dusts”) disappear from the app’s servers right after you send them, and chat histories are automatically erased from your phone every 24 hours. On top of that, you (or your contacts) can delete messages on both ends of the conversation with just one tap, and you can sign up by using only your phone number.

Just like Telegram, Viber also has public channels called Communities, and these messages are only SSL encrypted. This protects data in transit, but once it’s on the app’s servers, it’s readable by Viber or any other member of the community, allowing new members to access all backlogs.

Because iMessage doesn’t play nice with other messaging apps, it immediately switches to the not-so-good-ol’ SMS message whenever it cannot use Apple’s protocol, turning chat bubbles from blue to green. This type of message is reliable, as it doesn’t require your device to have lots of bars to work, but it’s neither secure nor private—SMS messages can be traced, intercepted, and stored by your service provider, who can gladly hand them over to authorities, if asked politely.

This is also an issue for interactions between Apple users, though. By default, iMessage switches gears also when connectivity is low. The problem is that you won’t actually know if this has happened, as individual bubbles in your chats won’t change color to show how they were delivered.

The post 7 secure messaging apps you should be using appeared first on Popular Science.

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Menstruating is living in constant fear of ruining your best pair of underwear or making a spectacle of yourself the day you decide to wear white pants. And that’s only the least important reason to learn how to properly track your period. 

There are a lot of apps out there that promise to make your life easier in this regard, but you may not want to rely on them. Luckily, you can learn how to track your period without an app by using the good ol’ calendar method.

Menstrual cycles are highly susceptible to changes due to illness, lifestyle, and even stress levels. Add to that the fact that each body is different and the theoretical model goes out the window. 

Well, not entirely—the 28-day menstrual cycle is a good parameter to compare your own particular cycle to, and people have used it for decades to track their periods and detect any anomalies. 

How to manually track your period

The calendar method is more than just circling a day on your calendar and then circling another 28 days later. To fully understand not only how to track your period on paper but how you can make it work for you, you first need to understand how your cycle works. It may seem like a lot, but you’ll need to trust the process.

You can divide a menstrual cycle into two parts—the pre-ovulation stage or follicular phase, and the post-ovulation stage, or luteal phase. These two episodes are separated by ovulation, the main event in every cycle where the ovary releases an egg into the fallopian tube.

In the follicular phase, the egg matures in a follicle within the ovary. Once it’s ready, estrogen levels signal to the brain that it’s time for the egg’s debut in society, and the noggin responds by releasing luteinizing hormone to trigger ovulation. The egg is now free to try and fulfill its purpose.   

The empty follicle that remains in the ovary turns into the progesterone-releasing corpus luteum. This tiny structure is key to understanding your specific menstrual cycle because it’s one of the only elements in this whole process that mostly remains constant for all menstruating people. If the egg doesn’t find a companion to join it in the dance of life, the corpus luteum will die after 12 to 14 days, abruptly cutting the supply of progesterone and triggering the shedding of the uterine lining, also known as your period. 

Now that you understand how the menstrual cycle works, it’s time to learn how to track your period without an app, so go ahead and write down the first day of your cycle—you can use a digital or analog calendar, your planner, or even a piece of paper. Keep in mind that the first day is when you start with full-flow bleeding—spotting doesn’t count. 

Starting on the first day of your period, go back 14 days on your calendar. That’s your ovulation day—mark it down. Knowing how long it takes your body to ovulate will help you determine when you’ll be at your most fertile, a crucial piece of information that, depending on how you use it, will help you get pregnant or avoid it altogether. 

Finally, jot down details about each day of your period. Take note of the amount and color of your flow, plus any other symptoms such as tender breasts, backache, headaches, mood swings, high sex drive, and low energy. Tracking symptoms throughout the rest of your cycle will eventually allow you to find patterns that will help you project ovulation, pre-menstrual syndrome, and, of course, your period. 

The problem is that when it comes to your period, the only data that matters is yours—the periods of people in Asia, Europe, the next state, or even the house around the corner from yours, don’t say much about when your next period will come.  

[Related: How to make your period more eco-friendly]

The post How to track your own period—without an app appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

YOUR PASSWORDS are probably terrible and you need to make them stronger. Yes, we know there are few things more annoying than brainstorming a fresh credential every time you need to do the tiniest task, but they’re one of the most practical ways to keep hackers and other malicious actors out of your business.

Tech companies, journalists, and organizations concerned with cybersecurity awareness have spent years underscoring the importance of secure passwords. Sadly, it seems there has been little payoff. A 2022 report by credential manager NordPass is truly embarrassing, listing “password,” “123456,” and “123456789” as the three most common passwords. It doesn’t get much better than that as you go further down, either: “Password1” ranks at No. 192.

It’s worth noting that the tech industry has spent decades imagining a password-free world, and some companies are already offering options to circumvent or ditch this type of authentication altogether. But as long as passwords remain the primary way to access our data, we’ll need to up our game to properly protect our information and money.

Of course, attackers aim for efficiency, so they’re not manually typing on a laptop somewhere. They’re using software to automatically try every entry in a common password dictionary, for example, or using information from known data breaches to try leaked passwords and/or their potential iterations. This is because people don’t update their passwords as regularly as they should (they do it once or twice a year instead of the recommended every three months), and when they do, they tend to make only minor changes to the ones they already have.

This is why strong passwords are unique, long, and peppered with special characters like punctuation marks, numbers, and uppercase letters. When we say unique, we mean words you can’t find in the dictionary. Common or famous names are out too—the more original the password, the better. The length of a password and the use of special characters both increase the odds that it is truly unique. It’s just math—the greater the number and variety of characters you use in your credentials, the more possible combinations there are, and the harder they will be to guess. 

A lot of people come up with their own secret code to develop passwords using easy-to-remember phrases from songs, poems, and movies. A classic approach is to replace letters with numbers (like 4s for A’s and 0s for O’s) and alternate uppercase and lowercase letters. If this is what you do, you’re on the right track, but you actually need to make your personal cryptography even more complicated to truly add security to your passwords. We won’t tell you how we encrypt our credentials, but you can create your own written language or alphabet by replacing letters with other characters. Just keep in mind that Klingon was built from utter gibberish, so the sky is the limit.   

Naturally, the cost of added difficulty is a higher cognitive burden. This means that the further a password is from a word or phrase you commonly use, the harder it’ll be for you to remember. That’s complicated as it is, but if you consider that the average person has around 100 online accounts, the feasibility of remembering all of those encoded unique passwords goes violently out the window.  

Basically, these tools allow us to outsource the whole credentials problem out of our lives, on the condition that we remember one good master password—or hold another type of authentication key, such as a fingerprint. And it works. Depending on the password manager you get, you’ll find features like good design, syncing across devices, and the ability to choose when fields autofill. 

Still, sometimes these measures are not enough. In December 2022, LastPass, another popular password manager, reported a security breach that included users’ names, phone numbers, emails, and billing information. As if this weren’t concerning enough, the company’s crisis management at the time was lacking, and it only disclosed details about the breach and what steps should customers follow in a blog post published more than two months later. 

Beyond breaches, some features in password managers are generally less than secure. In a 2020 review, researchers from the User Lab at the University of Tennessee, Knoxville, mentioned autofill as one of the most concerning. This is especially true when password managers automatically enter credentials without any input from the user. In cross-site scripting (XSS) attacks, hackers inject malicious scripts into a website’s code to steal a password as soon as the right fields are populated. “If a password manager autofills passwords without first prompting the user, then the user’s password will be surreptitiously stolen simply by visiting the compromised website,” explain study authors Sean Oesch and Scott Ruoti.

The likelihood of a successful XSS attack varies depending on factors like whether the site is using a secure connection (HTTPS, for example). But it’s always best to opt for a password manager that either requires user interaction for autofill or allows you to manually disable the feature. Most browser-based password managers don’t require user interaction before filling in credentials, but there are some exceptions. Mozilla Firefox automatically populates fields by default, but you can turn this feature off by clicking the main menu (three lines), going to Settings, Privacy & Security, and scrolling down to Logins and Passwords. Once you’re there, uncheck the box next to Autofill logins and passwords. An even easier solution is to use Apple’s Safari, which always requires user input for autofill. If you’re on a PC or don’t want to switch browsers, the study found the browser extension of the popular 1Password app will also require a click before it reveals your information. 

Just know that even though most modern platforms offer some kind of multifactor authentication, you won’t find every type every time. The most common option is authentication via a code sent over SMS text, followed closely by authentication via a code-generating apps. These are essentially the same, but the latter method uses the internet instead of phone networks to deliver the code. It’s worth noting that text messages traveling through the electromagnetic spectrum can be intercepted, and according to Ruoti, the low standards US telecom companies use when authenticating users make it possible to port someone’s phone number to a SIM card and receive their authentication codes on your device. If this concerns you, you can opt for more sophisticated alternatives, like security keys. These work exactly like your home keys—just plug them into your gadget’s USB port when prompted, and you’re done. We have an entire guide solely dedicated to helping you choose the best multifactor authentication method for you, if you want to do a deep dive into your options.

But even if some approaches are better than others, one thing will always be true: Any multifactor authentication is better than none at all. So if you have a phone, it’s an excellent idea to set up SMS codes for whenever a new device tries to access your account. Just make sure to disable the ability to preview message content on your lock screen, or somebody could use your codes by just stealing your phone. On Android, you can do this by going to Settings, Notifications, and turning off Sensitive notifications under Privacy. On iOS, open Settings, go to Notifications, tap Show Previews, and choose Never. If you want to see previews for less sensitive notifications on your iPhone, you can turn off previews for individual apps instead. If you receive codes via the Messages app, for example, open Settings, go to Notifications, tap Messages, find Show Previews, and choose Never.  

The post The Opt Out: Stop choosing bad passwords already appeared first on Popular Science.

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Microwave ovens are so commonplace that it’s hard to imagine you’re missing out on tremendous cooking potential every time you pop in some leftovers, set it, and forget it. But you are. They don’t do anything that, say, a conventional oven or a stovetop can’t do, though they can do it faster, more efficiently, and with way less hassle.

But first, how do microwave ovens work?

Microwaves are not perfect, though. As you might have noticed the last time you tried to nuke a hefty plate of rice, they don’t always warm up your dinner evenly, leaving some bits cold or undercooked, and others extremely hot. This is because—just like all waves—microwaves have peaks and valleys where their power fluctuates.  

[Related: The best indoor herb gardens of 2023]

Take four or five sprigs, put them between two sheets of paper towels, and heat them in the microwave for 30-second increments on high power until they’re dried. When they’re done, take them out, let them cool, and use your fingers to break the leaves. Store them in an airtight container. 

The quick spurt of heat has an effect similar to blanching, which preserves the color and aromatics of your herbs. The water in the leaves evaporates rapidly due to the effect of the microwaves, rendering perfectly dried flakes you can use year-round. 

The heat softens the juice-holding membranes, so you’ll get more juice when you squeeze them than you would from room-temperature fruit. 

• Pro tip: Before using the microwave, roll your unpeeled citrus on the counter while applying light pressure. This will loosen the membranes even more. 

It won’t save you a lot of time though. As I mentioned before, microwaves are not perfect and sometimes leave cold spots in your meals, or fail to penetrate all the way to the center of denser foods. And this is in a normal setup. Having an irregular one might make it harder for your microwave oven to cook your dishes evenly, so stop the heating, give your food a stir, and pop it in for an extra minute or two to make sure no one gets stuck with a cold meal. 

The principle is simple: the heat produces steam when it contacts the water molecules inside the garlic, separating the skin from the flesh.  

Something similar happens with tomatoes. First, wash your tomatoes and cut an X shape with the tip of a sharp knife on the side of the fruit opposite the stem. Microwave them for 25 to 30 seconds and then cool them. Finish by pulling on the corners of the X to remove the skin. 

I’m not here to tell you you can’t eat an entire cake by yourself, but whenever you want just one slice, you can make a mug cake. These sweet treats are single-serving cakes you can prepare without preheating the oven or dusting off your baking equipment—a microwave will suffice. You can choose chocolate, or vanilla, experiment with other flavors and even try a cookie in a mug. The best part is that you won’t have to scrub baking sheets or cake molds afterward. 

If you’re into more savory stuff, maybe you’d like to cook a potato—that is, without boiling any water or having to wash a pot afterward. First, poke your spud with a fork to allow for even cooking and prevent any explosions. Then, put your potato (one, two, more—you do you) in a microwave-safe glass or ceramic bowl with some olive oil, salt, the dried rosemary you made before, or whatever other aromatics you’d like to add. Heat up your tater for five minutes on high power, and when that’s done, carefully take it out of the microwave (it’ll be hot!) and turn it over. If you’re only cooking a single potato, nuke it for an extra three minutes, but if you’re eating more than one, do a second five-minute round, and enjoy. The microwave is truly the best appliance for solo living.

This serves two purposes, and the first one is pretty obvious if you’ve ever stuck your head inside the microwave and looked up (Have you? It’s gross). The paper towel will prevent your food from splattering all over the inside of your microwave, so it stays clean for longer. A damp paper towel will also help retain some of the moisture in your food so it cooks more evenly, and doesn’t dry out and become chewy. 

Slice a lemon in half and squirt some of the juice into a microwave-safe bowl with about an inch of water. Toss the lemon halves into the bowl (make sure the water doesn’t cover them) and microwave them for three minutes on high power, or until the water comes to a boil.

The post How to get more lemon juice, and 8 other genius microwave hacks appeared first on Popular Science.

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The smell of lemon is the smell of cleanliness. There’s nothing like the scent of a freshly cleaned bathroom (lemon), a stack of spotless dishes (lemon), or a floor so pristine that five-second rules easily become three-minute rules (yes, again, lemon).

It’s marketing, for sure, but there’s also a reason for it. Lemons and other citrus fruits contain citric acid, and this natural compound also happens to be a great cleaning agent. You can make your home smell like a citrusy paradise with lemon-scented cleaning products, but you can also get cheap citric acid for cleaning assistance in some of the most problematic corners of your home.

You won’t actually get that signature aroma—citric acid in its pure, crystalline form is odorless. But who cares about that when you can actually see through your glass shower door for the first time in years?

(Also, please don’t eat off the floor—no matter how clean it looks or how lemony it smells.)

Why citric acid is good for cleaning

Citric acid has become a staple in household products mainly because of its disinfectant and chelation properties, which make it really effective against hard water.

“Chelation means that the molecule binds very strongly to metal ions. Since hard-water scales and rust have metal components, binding the metals breaks up the materials and makes them dissolve in the water,” explains Patrick Holland, professor of chemistry at Yale University.

[Related: A bare minimum guide to spring cleaning]

Just as in chelation therapy—which doctors use to eliminate heavy metals from the bloodstream in patients suffering from heavy metal poisoning—citric acid binds to calcium and lime, which are abundant in hard water. This allows other cleaning agents and surfactants to work better, and if you use the white crystals in higher concentrations, you can actually eliminate solid mineral deposits in your appliances.

Dishwasher manufacturer General Electric recommends crystallized citric acid for cleaning the interior of dishwashers—also known as sour salts. Put 3 to 4 tablespoons of the compound in the detergent cup, close it, and run a normal cycle without any dishes. After that, GE suggests following up with another cycle (this time with regular dishwasher detergent).

How to use citric acid to clean an electric kettle

If you’re a fan of tea, you probably have an electric kettle, and it probably has some mineral buildup inside. Using filtered water instead of tap helps prevent this (or at least slow the process down), but if you have a hard water source in your area, it’s highly likely metals and minerals coming straight from your faucet have created a white crust. This residue can even crack and end up in your tea. Gross.

But because of its chelating faculties, using citric acid to clean your electric kettle is both fast and simple. Mix a tablespoon of citric acid with a liter (4 ⅓ cups) of water, and stir until dissolved. Boil the mixture and then let it sit for 15 minutes. After that, dispose of the solution, rinse the inside of your electric kettle, and stand in awe of your brand-new-looking appliance.

Rinsing after cleaning is important, but you shouldn’t worry too much about a smidge of leftover residue. Citric acid is widely used in the food industry, and it’s not only present in all kinds of fruit (including strawberries and pineapple), but also in jams as a preservative, and even in fizzy candy.

“A little bit [of citric acid] ingested wouldn’t hurt anyone,” says Holland.

How to use citric acid to clean showerheads and faucet aerators

I don’t think I’m exaggerating when I say that low water pressure can be counted as one of the horsemen of the apocalypse. Having just a single thread of water to clean yourself (or that pan with burnt lasagna ends stuck on the sides) cannot be defined as anything but a nightmare.

Low water pressure depends on a lot of factors—some of which are out of your control—but one you can definitely do something about is clogged showerheads and faucet aerators (the same thing, but in your kitchen sink).

The cleaning method is similar to that of the electric kettle. Just unscrew your showerhead or aerator (or both, if you want to multitask), and submerge it in a solution of 1 tablespoon of citric acid per 4 ½ cups of boiling water. Showerheads are hollow and will float, most likely with the holes facing up—which clearly defeats the purpose of this strategy. Use anything heavy and heat-resistant to keep it submerged. I used a jar of olives, but I’m sure you can come up with something better.

How to use citric acid to clean an espresso machine

You probably spent a lot of money on that fancy-looking appliance you use to make your delicious coffee, but what’s the point when your cup of morning glory has a slight taste of rust and metal? If you want to find the likely culprit of this travesty, look no further than the minerals in the water you’re using.

I’m sure you’re on to it by now, so let’s cut to the chase and get rid of that mineral residue. To descale your espresso machine, just fill the water reservoir with a solution of 2 tablespoons of citric acid for every quart of water, stir it to fully dissolve the crystals, and run the machine normally.

[Related: Are your cleaning products really green? Here’s how to tell.]

How to use citric acid to clean shower doors

I don’t think I need to keep singing the praises of citric acid, but on top of everything else, citric acid will also help you get rid of hard water stains on shower doors. That gunk is basically just mineral buildup.

You’ll need a little help from high temperatures, though. Using a citric acid to water ratio of 2 1/2 tablespoons per 1 cup of hot water, pour the solution on the door. Let it act for 15 minutes before rinsing. You might need to scrub a little with a sponge or rag, but the buildup should be loose and the stains should come off easily.

This story has been updated. It was originally published on November 5, 2020.

The post Use citric acid to clean your dishwasher and other gross household items appeared first on Popular Science.

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Twitter plans to remove text-message two-factor authentication (2FA) from all accounts except those subscribed to Twitter Blue, effectively putting an essential user protection feature behind a paywall. The good news is that the site offers two other more secure methods of authentication that will remain free.

If you don’t want to pay $8 a month for Twitter Blue ($11 if you’re using the platform on your phone), you can easily move away from SMS authentication to security keys and authenticator apps. You can set up one or both so you don’t have to choose between security and savings.

On the web, click the More option on the sidebar, open the Settings and support menu, and choose Settings and privacy. Next, go to Security and account access, Security, and finally, Two-factor authentication. If you’re on your phone, the steps are pretty much the same, but you’ll need to start by tapping your profile pic in the top left corner of your screen. Then go to Settings and support.  

[Related: Protect all of your accounts with two-factor authentication]

Once you’re in the two-factor authentication menu, you’ll see three methods you can activate by selecting the checkbox next to them: Text message, Authentication app, and Security key. Since the first one is about to cost money, let’s start with the second one. 

The moment you check the box next to Authentication app, Twitter will ask for your password again. This is an extra security measure to make sure it is you making the changes and not someone taking advantage of the fact that you left the library in a hurry and forgot to log out of your account. Click Get started on the next window and the platform will show you a QR code. Keep it open while you set up the app on your phone. 

Download and install your authentication app on one of your mobile devices. There are a lot of options to choose from in your gadget’s app store, but we’ll go with the Google Authenticator app (available for Android and iOS) because it’s free and easy to use. If you want to try something else, don’t worry—you’ll find the setup process pretty similar. Once the app is ready to use, open it, tap Get started, and it’ll offer you two options: Scan a QR code and Enter a setup key. The first is the easiest: tap it, give the app permission to use your device’s camera, and use that to scan the code Twitter gave you. Immediately, Google Authenticator will create a new item on a list where you’ll see the name of the account and a six-digit code that expires every 30 seconds. 

Back on your computer, click the Next button under the QR code you just scanned, and type in the six digits you see on your authentication app. If the code is blinking red, it will expire soon, so we recommend you wait for the next one to avoid any syncing problems. Click Confirm and you’ll be all set. 

If for whatever reason you can’t scan a QR code (maybe you dropped your phone and the cracked glass over the lens won’t let you), you can configure your app using a setup key. On Twitter, right under the QR code, click on Can’t scan the QR code? to reveal a 16-digit key. On Google Authenticator, choose Enter a setup key and type in the code you see on your computer. You’ll also have to provide an account name, just so you know where you’ll be able to use your code in the future. Finish by tapping Add, and on your computer click Next. On the following screen, type in the six-digit code you see on your authentication app, then hit Confirm.

Before you click Done in the next window, Twitter will offer you a single-use backup code to log into your account in case you don’t have access to your authentication app—it’ll come in handy if you lose your device or get locked out of it. Write down your code and store it in a safe place.

You can add as many accounts as you like to your authentication app, and if you get another phone or set up shop on another device, you can easily move your data using a QR code. Just tap the three-dot menu in the top right of your screen and choose Transfer accounts (Android) or Export accounts (iOS).

If you’re prone to losing your phone, you can use USB-compatible gizmos that act like a regular key: every time you sign into your account from a new computer, you’ll have to plug in the gadget and tap it to prove you are who you say you are. Depending on the device you have and the ports you have available, you can find security keys that are lightning-, USB-A-, or USB-C-compatible—the last of those three is especially useful, as you’ll also be able to plug it into most mobile devices. Prices vary depending on the brand and the compatibility, but you can find these keys for anywhere between $15 to $70. Whichever you get, make sure they’re compliant with FIDO standards, a protocol widely used in the tech industry and known for its high level of security.

But if you don’t feel like buying a security key, you can always use a phone or tablet as one. Using a device is similar to using a security key: whenever you log into your Twitter account from a new computer, for example, the platform will show you a passkey similar to a QR code. You can then use the camera on your mobile device to scan the code, and you’ll be good to go. 

To protect your Twitter account with a security key, click the checkbox next to the option in the Two-factor authentication menu. On the emerging window, click Get started, go to Add key, and you’ll see two options: USB security key and A different device. For a USB key, click the former, plug the key into the relevant port, and touch it to activate it. On the next screen, give your key a name, then click Confirm. 

[Related: The most transformative security innovations of 2021: Encrypted biometrics at your fingertips]

To set up a phone or tablet as your security key, select A different device, and scan the passkey with your device’s camera. It’s possible your device will ask you for a biometric or passcode to unlock it. This will also happen every time you want to use it as a security key. Back on Twitter, name your device, and click Confirm.

Before you’re completely done, both of these options will give you a single-use backup code for whenever you don’t have access to your security keys. Write them down and keep them in a safe place in case you ever need them. 

Unlike authenticator apps, you can have as many security keys as you want. Back in the Two-factor authentication menu, click on Manage security keys, go to Add another key, and follow the instructions. You’ll also see a list of the keys you’re already using on your account—click on each of them to rename or delete them.

The post How to keep using two-factor authentication on Twitter for free appeared first on Popular Science.

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With time, monitors have grown wider and wider to give us more space and more resolution for videos and gaming. Setting up your screen horizontally may come naturally to you—that’s how it’s shown on the box anyway—but it might not be the most efficient option when you’re working.

Changing to a vertical monitor setup is easy to do and can make more efficient use of every single inch of your screen. When you’re using programs like Microsoft Word or Google Docs, or looking at traditional scroll-down webpages, there’s only so much a wider screen can do for you. It’ll come to a point when having more room only means more space between columns or a larger grey area between the document you’re working on and the scroll bar on the right. 

A vertical monitor will display more condensed versions of your browser, but it’ll allow you to fully fit two windows on your screen instead of one more comfortably. This means that if you use a monitor as your laptop’s second display, you’ll have immediate control over three applications or tabs at the same time. 

How to set up a vertical monitor

There are two sets of steps you’ll have to go through to set up a vertical monitor—one involving hardware, and the other involving software.

Let’s start with the first one. If you’re using your monitor with a stand, physically changing the screen orientation into a vertical position should be easy. The exact process will depend on the manufacturer, but some Dell monitors, for example, can be easily rotated into portrait mode, or have some sort of a lock on the back you can press to rotate your screen. Desk mounts are easy too, and even basic ones let you change your display orientation however you want. 

[Related: The best vertical monitors of this year]

Once that’s sorted, you’ll have to deal with the software setup. First, make sure your monitor is properly connected and set up to work with your computer. If you don’t know how to do that, PopSci has all the instructions you need. No matter the make of your computer, the monitor you connect will be in a landscape or horizontal position by default—you’ll need to change that.

Set up a vertical monitor with Windows

Set up a vertical monitor with macOS

On Macs, go to the Apple menu, choose System Settings, and then on the sidebar choose Displays. Unlike Windows, there’s no manual way to push a Mac to detect a second screen. This happens automatically, so if you don’t see your monitor in the Displays menu, it’s not connected. Once you see your monitor, select it and at the bottom of the window you’ll find Rotation. Click the drop-down menu to the right and change the default Standard to either 90° or 270°, depending on whether you flipped your display clockwise or counterclockwise. 

But if you prefer to keep a long row of endless tabs on your browser or need to focus on one thing at a time, a vertical monitor setup may be too stimulating for you. Still, if this is your case, it’s always a good idea to keep your primary screen (be it another monitor or your laptop’s built-in display) locked to a landscape view. That way, whenever you need to concentrate, you can turn off your vertical monitor and pour all of your attention into the task at hand. When you’re finished, you can easily go back to that comfortable bird’s-eye view.    

This story has been updated. It was originally published on September 14, 2021.

The post How a vertical monitor setup will change your life appeared first on Popular Science.

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IT’S HARD to find pleasure these days. Our fast-paced, tech-centric lives can give us little space for intimacy and satisfaction in bed. But instead of leaving us to our own devices, innovators around the world are taking on the challenge of making sex better for anyone who’s experienced childbirth, reproductive health problems, or the erosion of romance.

Founded in 2014, UK-based MysteryVibe is one company filling that niche. Using robotics and other facets of engineering, it set out to create a durable sex toy that could adapt to a variety of bodies, shapes, and desires. What it didn’t know was that its first creation, a flexible six-motor vibrator called Crescendo, would also end up as a certified medical device for conditions like pelvic floor pain. A 2022 MysteryVibe-funded study at the Murcia Institute of Sexology in Spain found that exercises performed with the handheld model could significantly reduce discomfort in patients suffering from chronic pain during sex. The same institution later saw that the penis-hugging Tenuto improved erectile dysfunction after one patient’s colo­rectal cancer surgery. At the moment, the UK’s National Health Service is looking into the ability of the G-spot-targeting Poco to ease long-term vulva discomfort, with results expected later this year. 

↑ MysteryVibe’s team of four engineers develops all of the company’s prototypes at an inconspicuous farmhouse in Thursley, England. One of the steps involves using a hot plate and a hot-air soldering technique to manually tweak the printed circuit boards, or PCBs, that control the sex toys. The high temperature allows staff to reassemble the electronics as they evolve.

↑ Legato (set to be released in summer 2023) was devised based on a request from a medical professional to help menopause patients overcome vaginal dryness, a common symptom that makes penetrative sex more difficult and potentially painful. It’s the first sex toy designed to stimulate the labia by increasing blood flow around the vulva, improving natural lubrication.

↑ Medical research has found specific vibration frequencies can effectively treat pelvic floor pain. As part of their own product development, MysteryVibe constructed its own testing rig to measure how the motors in their products interact with each other, and the exact vibrations they deliver. These efforts are still only experimental. 

↑ While designing silicone-covered devices with multiple hinges inside, the MysteryVibe team learned that versatility comes at the cost of durability. This became a major engineering hurdle, as one of the original driving missions of the company was to make a sex toy that would last. The entire product line has a 24-month warranty, but with proper care, the products should survive for at least five years, says CTO and co-founder Rob Weekly.

↑ During the years-long trip from conception to online retail, MysteryVibe’s offerings go through multiple transformations that take into account customer and medical feedback. The Thursley research and development center is filled with boxes of old models that engineers use to ensure software updates work seamlessly with discontinued models.  

↑ Tenuto’s largest arm sits against the highly sensitive perineum, stimulating blood circulation to the genitals. With customizable oscillations from three other motors, the result can be a longer-lasting erection and an overall more blissful experience for the user and their partner.

↑ 3D printers play a big role in helping the company develop, test, and refine products—from silicone molds to working parts. Once the design process is complete, the newly minted prototypes are shipped to China, where, after some back and forth with the research team to improve efficiency, they go into the production line for mass manufacturing. 

↑ When building samples, MysteryVibe staff members use a metal stencil to apply two soldering pastes with different melting points to the PCB plates. This allows them to work at a lower temperature to affix the electrical components to one side of the panel, protecting the hardware already assembled on the other end.

↑ Next, the PCBs get transferred to a “pick-and-place” machine that can build 10 boards in one move. A robotic head creates a vacuum to suction up components from the paper reels on the left and position them exactly where they belong on the panel. From there, they get wired up to the motors.

↑ Another new release in 2023, Molto is crafted to arouse the prostate by simulating the standard approach adopted by pelvic floor therapists. Besides generating pleasure, this technique also has possible health benefits and can be used to improve conditions like erectile dysfunction and enlarged prostate.  

↑ Tenuto 2 posed a particular manufacturing challenge, as it’s the company’s only “over-molded” product. While the skeletons of other MysteryVibe toys are pushed into fully dried silicone pieces, in this case, the bare electronics go into a special cast and are then sealed in the molten material. If the device accidentally turns on from the pressure, or heats up too much, the team needs to reset the whole process.

↑ When Crescendo launched nearly a decade ago, its six motors set it apart from the competition. More machinery means more targeted vibrations and flexibility, and customers can’t seem to get enough. The model and its successor (seen here) still hold the record for maximum motors in the industry: “I don’t think anyone’s touching that at the moment,” says Weekly. “I think the most I’ve seen is three.”

Read more PopSci+ stories.

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The day has come. Tomorrow, on Valentine’s Day, Microsoft is officially putting the legendary Internet Explorer out of commission. If you still have bookmarks stored on this doomed program, you’ll need to move them to Edge or another browser before it’s too late.

Microsoft stopped supporting Internet Explorer last year after deciding to focus all efforts on IE’s successor, Microsoft Edge. Now the company is finishing the job. The final nail in the browser’s coffin is an update that will redirect all PC Internet Explorer icons to Edge. The shortcuts will stay put, at least for a few months, but after that, it’s goodbye forever. 

In the next window, select the checkbox next to Export to a file and click Next. The wizard will ask you what you want to export. If you’re only saving the websites you’ve bookmarked, check the box next to Favorites. If you also want to export your RSS feeds, click the box next to Feeds; if you’d like to export privacy settings, preferences, and other options related to frequently visited websites, check the box next to Cookies. Hit Next when you’re ready. 

In the next window, you’ll have to choose what bookmarks folder you’re exporting. If you’ve organized your collection of websites in specific locations, you can select them all here, but if you only have random links saved to your bookmarks bar, select Favorites Bar. With your selections made, click Next. Now you’ll have to choose where you want to save the HTML file once it’s ready. Internet Explorer will show you the latest location you used, which may be the downloads folder on your PC. If that’s OK with you, proceed to the next step. But if you want to export the file elsewhere, click Browse and use the file explorer to find a new location. Hit Save to go back to the wizard, and once you’re there, click Export and Finish.

How to move Internet Explorer bookmarks to Chrome

Since Edge was built on the same underlying code as Chrome, you’ll be able to easily move your information there as well—but only your bookmarks. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to transfer your Internet Explorer feeds or cookies to Chrome.

The import process for Google’s browser is similar. Click the three-dot menu in the top right corner of your screen, go to Bookmarks, and then Import bookmarks and settings. Chrome will open a new tab and display a new window where you can choose the program you’re importing your information from. From the dropdown menu, select Bookmarks HTML file and then click Choose file. Use File Explorer (PC) or Finder (Mac) to locate the correct file and import it. When it’s done, you’ll see your bookmarks as a new folder titled Imported at the end of your bookmarks bar. To edit its name and contents, open the Bookmarks manager: go to the three-dot menu, and click the Bookmarks option to find it. 

The post It’s your last chance to save your Internet Explorer bookmarks appeared first on Popular Science.

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Ever since Elon Musk officially became the owner of Twitter, user experience on the platform has been… interesting. The company has endured massive layoffs, glitches, and scandals, and the also-owner of Tesla and SpaceX has taken it upon himself to manage things from the comfort of his own Twitter polls. Needless to say, some people have had a problem with all this.

Twitter hasn’t imploded (yet), despite predictions its collapse is imminent, but if you don’t want to stay to witness that, you might want a place where you can re-create the pre-Musk Twitter experience. 

Well, we checked, and some of the countless available social media platforms do have the potential to feel a bit like Twitter. If you’re thinking about where to set up shop next, these should be your first stops. 

People can tip or pay a creator on a post-to-post basis using a point system that translates into money: one point equals one cent. You get 50 points for free upon signing up, but you’ll need to start spending your own money if you want to keep tipping. That’s when the currency conversion gets a little iffy. For example, a bundle of 10,000 points, which should translate to $100, is actually $127 (with a discount, because buying in bulk is cheaper). Logically, that $27 difference goes to expenses like taxes and operational costs, but since we didn’t see any ads in the time we spent there, it’s easy to assume this is one of the ways Post makes money. Even if some of the initial payments go to the platform, Post’s developers say tips go entirely to creators.  

[Related: 11 Twitter bots that will make the most of your timeline]

Aesthetically, Post looks like a put-together version of Twitter: as soon as you create a profile, you can start scrolling a curated feed that gets refined the more you click and scroll. The interface is clean and the site uses a legible serif font. You can share original content and like and repost stuff from other users, but instead of Twitter-like replies where everything you say is in the form of a new tweet, you can comment the old-fashioned way—publicly, but not showing as a new item on your personal timeline.

Overall, things are generally civil over at Post, and even though you can find a large variety of wholesome content, there’s a lot of politics and journalism from reputable sources going around. 

If you never experienced the good ol’ days of peak Tumblr, the best way to understand the platform is to think of it as Twitter’s and Instagram’s forbidden love child. Its design makes it more of a visual-first platform than Twitter, but you can post all sorts of content: text, photos, videos, GIFs, and even audio. You can also interact with posts from people you follow by reposting (retweeting) them and replying to them just like you would on Twitter. 

In the beginning and during its heyday, this platform was a haven for women, fandoms, artists, and the LGBTQI+ community, who were free to post all sorts of content. Tumblr’s decline began when Yahoo bought the platform in 2013, but the biggest hit came when Verizon acquired the site in 2017. The telecom company set up stricter community guidelines that purged adult content from the site (including that of an artistic or educational nature), driving a lot of users onto other platforms, like Twitter. 

Pillowfort was highly attractive to those users for two main reasons: its interface is similar to Tumblr’s (especially because it gives more space to photos and videos) and community guidelines are more flexible, which is why the platform currently has a thriving fandom community. 

The site emphasizes content filtering and giving users the ability to interact with a handpicked group of people. Sign up, and you’ll be able to blacklist bothersome accounts, preventing them from seeing your posts or contacting you in any way—even through reposted content or instant messaging. 

Right now, Pillowfort is still in an open beta stage, and new users can only create accounts by paying a one-time $5 fee or by signing up for the waitlist, which promises to send you an invitation code in less than an hour.

If you don’t want to pay or wait, you can take a tour of the platform as a “demo user,” which will give you a pretty good idea of what you’ll encounter if you decide to join. 

With an easy-to-use and retro-looking interface, Cohost works a lot like Tumblr, but there’s no algorithm. This means you’ll only see the content from accounts you follow and tags you’ve bookmarked. As an anti-spam measure, new users cannot post or comment until a day or two after opening their accounts, but you can bypass that if you have an invite code from an existing user. 

Because there’s no algorithm, the easiest way to find people and posts you’re interested in (and make it easy for other users to find you) is by using tags. Users are encouraged to slap as many as possible onto each post, even if they’re super niche or more of an extra comment than a label. 

Cohost also attracts the artistic and LGBTQI+ communities, and has a strong population of Furries. In general, users are nice and respectful, while looking to make friends, show their work, and share humor. A cute extra feature is Cohost’s mascot, Eggbug, a round magenta bug who’s the star of a lot of fan art and merchandise.  

People can interact freely with each other at a “federal” level—meaning regardless of what community they belong to—or join more than one server at a time. If you change your mind, the platform allows you to move your entire account, including your followers, from one community to another. 

All this makes the Mastodon concept a little difficult to understand upfront, so the learning curve for new users is a bit steeper than for other platforms. Still, the best way to truly see if Mastodon is the Twitter alternative for you is to create an account and dive in head first. 

What makes CounterSocial different from other platforms is its claim to have a zero-tolerance policy for bullies, trolls, ads, and fake news. The network takes this so far that it has completely banned entire countries for being “well known to be origin points of an overwhelming majority of bots and trolls.” The list currently includes Russia, China, Iran, North Korea, Pakistan, and Syria, and the platform reserves the right to add and remove territories to this list at its own discretion. 

[Related: 8 tricks for making your Twitter feed less toxic]

CounterSocial (also known as COSO) puts a particular emphasis on news and politics. You’ll see MSNBC’s news ribbon at the top of your screen, and Counter Pro accounts even have access to news video clips on the homepage. Something you won’t see anywhere else is COSO’s current overall network sentiment—you’ll see it in the form of a thermometer at the top of the first column. This tool is constantly taking the pulse of the platform, measuring its level of toxicity. By looking at it you can be sure that people are, indeed, on edge, and it’s not just you. 

In terms of community, CounterSocial has a variety of folks sharing things like random thoughts, music, and the latest decal they’ve stuck to their bikes. Still, in the time we spent there, most posts were about politics, and all of them were very clearly from the same blue side of the US political spectrum. 

As an added bonus, COSO Pro users ($4.99 a month) get access to Counter Realms, which is a virtual reality iteration of the social network. There, users can create spaces or join those formed by others, and talk to other people using their avatars. If you have a VR set, you can use it in Realms, but if you prefer to keep it old-school, you can also access the platform with only your computer. 

This story has been updated. It was first published on April 27, 2022.

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With egg prices rising and concerns over food security increasing, some folks have taken a step toward self-sufficiency and opted to raise chickens in their backyards. Whether for meat or solely for eggs, having your own coop may be a great solution if you’ve been struggling to find ingredients for your breakfast omelet.

But tending a flock requires work, time, space, and above all, shouldering the responsibility of caring for the health and well-being of animals. It’s no joke. That’s why it’s important to know exactly what you’re getting yourself into before you welcome chickens into your life. 

“People see the adorable coops on social media and the cute fluffy chickens and it’s something they automatically want. But chicken keeping is work,” says Nikki Husted, author of the upcoming book Chicken Keeping Pure and Simple: A Fun, Friendly Guide to Backyard Chicken Keeping. 

[Related: Why you should build a swing for your chickens]

Husted, who’s also known to her almost 250,000 TikTok followers as @purelychickens, explains that there’s a learning curve to raising birds where you’ll be constantly troubleshooting and adjusting your caretaking techniques. The process can quickly become frustrating, which may be why some folks trying it for the first time at the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic ended up giving up their chickens or even abandoning them. 

This is why it’s important to do thorough research before you set off on this new adventure. But don’t be discouraged: they’re very much worth it and not only for the food.   

“[Chickens] provide so much more than just eggs,” says Husted. “Not only do they give us laughs and companionship, but they have helped [me and my husband] teach our children about kindness and respect for animals.”  

“Chicken upkeep doesn’t take much time at all,” says Lisa Steele, author of The Fresh Eggs Daily Cookbook and fifth-generation chicken keeper. 

Once you’ve perfected your routine, it should only take about 10 minutes each morning and night to let the chickens in and out, feed them, and check for eggs. That’s it. This should be pretty easy if you’re working from home, but as long as you provide your birds with enough food and water, as well as a safe coop and run, there’s no need to have anyone supervising the flock during the day, she says. 

If you need to go somewhere for work, Husted recommends using large gravity feeders and five-gallon waterers. That way you won’t have to worry about your chickens starving if you run late at night. 

But you will have to worry about temperature in the colder months. “Eggs tend to freeze in the winter if you don’t collect them in a timely manner,” she explains. If that happens, the egg can crack, making it vulnerable to germs, and it’s as good as gone. 

For the coop, you’ll need to consider 3 to 4 square feet per chicken. This is especially important in the colder months when they’ll spend most of their time indoors, or if there’s not a large area for the run. And don’t forget about furniture. Yes, chicken furniture. Steele recommends a minimum of 8 inches of roosting bar per hen (they perch on it to sleep), and one nesting box for every 3 to 4 hens to lay their eggs. Keeping your flock entertained and stimulated is also a good idea, as bored birds can start pecking their roommates. For this, consider making your own chicken swing out of branches and rope.

All the sources we consulted for this story recommend getting a coop that can house more chicks than you actually plan on buying. If your flock outgrows its shelter or you end up purchasing more chickens, you’ll have to upgrade your setup, and that’s not only annoying, but can also get expensive. 

As for chicks, Steele says they can cost between $4 and $15 each depending on the breed. But high demand for the hobby has slightly increased prices in the past two years and made some varieties harder to find. 

The main other expense you’ll have is chicken feed. Amy Barkley, livestock and beginning farm specialist with Cornell University Cooperative Extension, explains that hens will eat about 1/3 pound of feed per day, which equates to a yearly cost of about $50 per bird. This calculation is based on 50-pound bags of feed, which Barkley says you should be able to find for around $20. But prices will vary depending on where you are and what kind of food you get—you’ll find varieties like GMO-free or organic can be slightly more expensive than generic. Steele says you can also reduce your feed bill by sharing some kitchen and garden scraps with the flock or allowing them to forage for grass, weeds, and bugs in the yard.

“The cost to keep chickens is relatively low, but the reality is that it’s still probably cheaper to purchase eggs from the store,” says Barkley. If you find that’s the case for you, you may want to reconsider your flock-keeping endeavors—and that is absolutely fine. 

“​​Breeds in this category are large-sized chickens that will lay well and are easy to manage,” she explains. These include Plymouth Rocks, Rhode Island and New Hampshire Reds, Orpingtons, Ameraucanas, and Leghorns. 

Then there’s the question of how to start: should you get chicks or fully grown hens? There are pros and cons to both approaches. With chicks, there are fewer things in the world cuter than a baby yellow fluff, they’re inexpensive, and raising them from a younger age will make it easier for them to get used to you. Familiarity will prevent you from sharing your property with some very aggressive tenants. 

On the downside, you’ll have to wait between 5 and 6 months before your chicks are old enough to lay eggs, and they need more equipment and care than older birds, including heat lamps, brooders, and chick dust. And then there’s the wild card factor: telling a chick’s sex is tricky, so even if you buy females, there’s still a 10 percent chance that you’ll end up with a rooster instead of a hen, says Barkley. That can easily become a problem, not only because they can be more aggressive than hens, but because some urban areas don’t allow keeping roosters because of noise concerns.

If you want to make sure your flock comprises egg-laying hens only, you can get ready-to-lay birds. But it’ll cost you—they can go for $20 to $50 each, more than three times as much as a chick from the most expensive breeds. Also, adult hens are more set in their ways, so you may get more than one less-than-loving peck every time you enter the coop.

If you have a pupper, getting them to peacefully coexist with your flock is not impossible, but it’ll highly depend on their breed, as some are genetically wired to hunt fowl. Knowing your pooch’s limits and slowly introducing them to your birds in a supervised environment will be key to helping them get along. Just keep in mind that it may never happen. In that case, providing a secure shelter and run for your flock is essential to protecting them.

Other than a proper roof, The Happy Chicken Coop, a website dedicated to providing information about backyard chicken keeping, suggests using wire mesh with openings no larger than a ½ inch for the bottom 3 feet of the fence around your run. 

“If you have a building that has a dirt floor, line the perimeter with cinder blocks or bury hardware cloth 12 inches below the ground to keep baddies from digging under the walls,” Barkley says.

Some counties and municipalities have people apply for permits, fill out applications, or pay a fee to set up a chicken coop on their property. They may also have specific requirements as to how big it can be and where it can be located. Sometimes they’ll even send inspectors to make sure everything’s in order. 

[Related: We don’t know what a happy chicken looks like, and that’s a big problem]

To save yourself money and trouble, check the requirements for keeping chickens in your area. You’ll usually find that information in your state’s or city’s health code or by asking the wildlife or parks department. Barkley also recommends reaching out to your local university’s extension office. In New York City, for example, the city’s regulations allow people to have hens, not roosters, in all five boroughs without a permit, but the coop and run have to be at least 25 feet away from the nearest building. 

If you live in a communal building or have close neighbors, informing them about your plans ahead of time can also help preserve the peace. Steele says that even if you only keep hens, they’ll still make noise, especially after laying, so you’ll need to be prepared if that becomes a problem. But the promise of fresh eggs delivered to their door may be enough to convince your neighbors. It might be a small price to pay to keep everyone happy. Especially your chickens.

The post 6 things to know before deciding to raise backyard chickens appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

IT’S BECOME COMMON for social media platforms and other online services to offer you a way to find, edit, and delete the data they have on you. The steps aren’t always obvious, but if you dig deep enough into a site’s settings, you’ll likely find a page full of information the company has gathered in an attempt to serve you more relevant ads.

What you see will vary, but you should find data points such as your gender, marital status, education, income bracket, and various interests. Platforms make this data available for the sake of transparency, but also to tempt you into refining it—if only to stop seeing ads about football games when you’re more of a basketball person.

But be careful: A more complete profile may result in ads you find more relevant, and that doesn’t benefit you. It benefits them—the platforms that earn billions of dollars from advertisers to show you banners and autoplay videos they hope will get you to spend your money on things you may not need.

Transparency is always good news

For more than a decade, the biggest players in the digital advertising industry have been Google and Meta. In 2021, these powerhouses respectively held close to a third and a quarter of the market share. Their dominance may be why they have both created dedicated sites that people can use to see information each company has gathered for its advertising purposes. 

In the case of the Big G, the site is My Ad Center. For a long time, this was an options menu you could find only through your main account page, but the company recently gave it more prominence with a user-friendly makeover and its own URL. While signed into your Google account, you can visit the site and tweak ad-related settings for all of the company’s products, including YouTube. 

[Related: When it comes to privacy, smart devices are not the smarter choice]

Meta has something similar. In the past, users had to go through a labyrinthic process to find their Facebook ad settings, but getting to the right menu is a lot easier now. (On the web, go to Settings and Privacy, Privacy Center, find Ads, and click on Get Started.) You can even bypass those steps by going directly to the platform’s ad settings website while signed into your Facebook account. Changing your preferences here might also affect the ads you see on Instagram because both sites are owned by Meta. 

These are not the only ones: Microsoft, Snapchat, Instagram, TikTok, and some others also give users the ability to see information these platforms have gathered. If you’re not sure where to find it, your best bet is to go to your account settings and look for any menus related to privacy or ads. 

Putting all this information at our disposal mainly helps with one thing: transparency. Tech privacy is a conundrum, and a hairy one at that. Not only is there a huge power disparity between the actors involved—you vs. lawyered-up, tech-savvy, billion-dollar companies—but also because it poses different challenges in different contexts. User privacy is intimately related to mass surveillance, including face recognition software, spying apps, and blabber-mouth speakers. There are also future problems we can’t even imagine at the moment. For people who talk and think about this for a living, it’s hard to keep up; for users who are not specifically attuned to the matter, it’s practically impossible. So having tech companies create a space to show us a potentially sanitized version of how the sausage is made is a big step in the right direction.  

Editing your ad preferences is a trap

But don’t get the wrong idea—this is not just a user perk. If you’ve ever had to undergo a serious medical procedure, your doctor might have sat you down and walked you through the process step by step. They do this so you’ll go into the operation feeling like you understand what’s going to happen.

The same principle applies to ad settings and user privacy in general. Some tech companies show you how they use your data to get you to trust them. This, in turn, may appease privacy concerns from certain reluctant users and some people advocating for regulation that would hinder the companies’ primary source of wealth. A little less mystery around data-harvesting can reduce questions about the services, making it easier for these companies to operate.  

You may feel relieved after Google tells you it’s not selling your personal information and Meta assures you it doesn’t share the content you post with data brokers. Even more than that—you may feel like you have control over what happens to your data. Up to a certain point, that’s true: These companies also give you the choice to personalize your experience and even turn off targeted ads altogether. But that’s not a lot of control. Personalized ads are on by default on many platforms, so unless you turned them off the second you created your account, the app has already used your data to try to sell you stuff. 

The chance to edit your ad profile can also be misleading. You can cull topics, accounts, and even specific brands you’re not interested in, but in doing so you’re helping make your data more accurate. There’s not really a way to win here, but refining your data may actually be worse than doing nothing. 

Still, there’s no harm in trying

Yet, having the ability to edit, omit, and add data can also be an opportunity. After all, if you can input data, you can input wrong data. This could mess with the algorithm and obscure real information, leading to ineffective ads and more privacy as a result. 

While this is a possibility, the somewhat disappointing truth is that we don’t know for sure whether this type of data obfuscation actually works. We can’t see what happens behind the scenes of social platform companies and their ad tech relationships, and without that access it’s hard to determine if changing our ad preferences to something that misrepresents our true selves does anything at all. 

[Related: How to uncover what Facebook knows about you]

We must also consider that online platforms use a vast variety of aggregated data to try to understand who you are and what you’re interested in, beyond what you input into its forms. This includes geotags you might have included on some of your posts, the language you speak, and the accounts you follow. That is a lot of information, so stating that you are not actually interested in sports might not counterbalance the fact that you follow a lot of sports-related accounts and constantly post about your favorite team. The good news is that trying won’t cost you a thing—using ad settings to protect your privacy might be a shot in the dark, but it’s one worth taking. 

Other than that, there’s not a lot you should do on the ad settings page of any given app. Anything you do there is really just free labor, whether it’s confirming your age group or trimming a long list of topics and interests. Some may think it’s fair—after all, these companies provide services, like Google Maps and WhatsApp, free of charge. But you’re definitely paying for them, just not in cash. You don’t want to do these companies’ work for them too.

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: The case against editing your ad settings appeared first on Popular Science.

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Eggs are one of the most practical and efficient foods known to humans and an essential ingredient in cuisines around the world. But due to a series of unfortunate events (and, some say, corporate greed), eggs are now pricey and scarce. It’s enough to make you rethink your love for fluffy omelets at breakfast.

Luckily, many egg replacements are foods you might already have at home. But what you use as a stand-in will depend on what you’re making and the role eggs play in that particular concoction. 

To give you first-hand knowledge, we tried different egg replacement options with the same simple vanilla muffin recipe to see which ones work and which ones stink like a rotten egg. 

To choose the best replacement for any recipe, Lourdes Castro, a registered dietitian and director of the Food Lab at New York University, says you first need to figure out what the eggs are doing in the food you’re making. For that, a good understanding of how eggs function in food preparation comes in handy.

[Related: We made pancakes with substituted ingredients so you don’t have to]

Keep in mind that eggs are multitaskers and might be playing more than one role in the recipe. In that case, get yourself a replacement that tackles those needs, and don’t be afraid to experiment by adjusting the quantities of the other ingredients if you need to.

This is possible thanks to lecithin, which egg yolks have in abundance, Castro explains. Lecithin molecules have a hydrophilic (water-loving) and a hydrophobic (water-hating, fat-loving) side. This structure gives this nutrient the ability to simultaneously bind to oil and butter, as well as non-fatty substances like milk, making it an excellent emulsifier. If your recipe contains these two conflicting types of ingredients, your eggs are likely serving as an emulsifier.

Think of meatballs, for example. Cook a clump of ground beef and it’ll crumble. Add some eggs, and the roundness will last until the meat is fully cooked. This is because the high protein content in the eggs acts as glue, keeping everything together even in the presence of destructive heat. Anytime you’re making a quiche or adding seeds as a finishing touch to your buns, you’re using eggs as a binder.

When you whisk egg whites, you mix air into them. The stirring motion also creates an elastic web of proteins that traps air bubbles in place, allowing the gooey whites to expand. 

“[Eggs are] able to function like a leavening agent, bringing volume and height to a baked good, or whatever it is that you’re making,” says Castro. Egg yolks also have this ability, but because of their high fat content, they can only foam up to a certain degree, she adds. So any time you’re making a fluffy sponge that requires a lot of mixing and beating, eggs are there to add volume.

The glossy bronze finish is partially due to the Maillard effect: the reaction responsible for the browning of proteins that are exposed to heat. But how dark your baked goods get will depend more on the amount of pigment in the egg yolk. 

Aquafaba

• Ratio per egg: 3 tablespoons 
• Ideal for: volume and binding
• Overall performance: 🥚🥚🥚🥚🥚

Aquafaba, also known as the water that comes along with canned chickpeas, is a staple in vegan cuisine for a reason. This seemingly innocuous substance is full of protein, and its ability to foam makes it the perfect ingredient to make vegan meringue. This is also what makes it an ideal replacement when you want to add volume to your baked goods. In this experiment, it worked great. 

Depending on the chickpeas you get, the aquafaba could be a bit watery; you want it to be thick and resemble an egg-white consistency. You’ll never get a perfect goo like that, but you can get pretty close by reducing the aquafaba in a small saucepan on low heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Castro explains this is an easy way to increase the protein concentration in the liquid, as heat will eliminate the excess water. 

We reduced the aquafaba and waited for it to cool down before using it. We also made sure to mix it thoroughly with the rest of the liquid ingredients, beating it by hand for a minute or two. If you have an electric mixer, you might be able to get more volume than we did, but even two minutes of whisking by someone with very questionable upper body strength did the trick perfectly, so you don’t actually need one.   

The result was an almost perfect dupe of the control batch. The texture, volume, and flavor were spot on, with the only difference being that the aquafaba muffins were a lot paler than their eggy counterparts. Still, this was one of our favorite replacements, and we ended up with a can of chickpeas we later used to make a delicious salad with onion and feta cheese. Waste not, want not. 

Carbonated water

• Ratio per egg: ¼ cup
• Ideal for: volume
• Overall performance: 🥚🥚🥚🥚🥚

Listen, this one surprised us too. Water is certainly not the same as an egg, but when it comes to baking, the added bubbles in spicy water can provide a similar leavening effect, creating volume for your baked goods. Since water adds no flavor or fat to the batter, you may notice the taste of other ingredients more, so you may want to account for that when using this replacement. 

The finished muffins were actually very close to the control batch, and looked a lot like them. There was no noticeable change in flavor, either.

Fruit puree

• Ratio per egg: ¼ cup (65 grams) 
• Ideal for: binding
• Overall performance: 🥚🥚🥚🥚

When using fruit as an egg replacement, most sites recommend pureed apples or bananas, but you could technically use any ripened fruit as long as it’s not excessively watery (please don’t try watermelon). 

The key ingredient that fruit is adding to your batter is pectin, which a lot of recipes for jams and jellies use as a gelling agent. Simply put, it makes things thicker. In baking, pectin is a pretty good binding agent.

“Bananas are very good at delivering that,” Castro says. “The color is pretty benign, there’s not a lot of seeds, it’s pretty easy to use, and there’s not a lot of water, so it tends to be a good ingredient.”

As easy and accessible as it might be, using fruit as an egg replacement also means the stand-in’s flavor will come through in the finished product. This is not necessarily bad if you like the flavor, but it’s not the best option if you want something more neutral. 

We used mashed bananas, which we could faintly taste at the end of the experiment. But the rest of the variables were pretty stable: they looked the same as the control group, and the texture was only slightly denser.  

Baking powder and vinegar

• Ratio per egg: 1 teaspoon baking powder + 1 tablespoon vinegar 
• Ideal for: volume
• Overall performance: 🥚🥚🥚🥚

In cooking, the baking powder and vinegar combo is used to add volume. The foaming reaction between these two ingredients produces carbon dioxide, which pushes the batter outward to create height. 

Castro explains that this reaction in the oven is sort of a head start to the rise. The CO2 bubbles expand the mix while the gluten coagulates, and if all goes well, they will hold the structure long enough to fix it in place, giving your baked goods size and an airy texture. 

You will notice the difference between a muffin with eggs and one using baking powder and vinegar mainly because the latter has no fat, so the texture won’t be as soft. Luckily, our recipe had a healthy amount of butter that counteracted the absence of the egg fat, so the difference was only noticeable against the control batch. 

Full-fat, unflavored yogurt

• Ratio per egg: ¼ cup (65 grams) 
• Ideal for: binding
• Overall performance: 🥚🥚🥚

Yogurt has a lot of protein, but it’s different from egg protein because it doesn’t coagulate as easily with heat, Castro explains. This doesn’t make it a good replacement when it comes to binding things together, but in this particular case, the presence of milk changes that. 

“Milk does respond to acid, so the yogurt coagulates the milk and then removes a lot of that water,” Castro says. The result is a more concentrated form of protein that was able to keep our muffins from falling apart. 

We ended up with soft, pale-ish muffins that didn’t rise as much as the control group, so the crumbs were a bit denser overall. Yogurt also gave the muffins a faint tangy flavor, which counterbalanced the sweetness of the sugar. This could be perfect if this is your kind of thing, but if you like your muffins with a more neutral flavor, you’re better off choosing another replacement. 

Chia seeds

• Ratio per egg: 1 tablespoon seeds + 3 tablespoons water
• Ideal for: binding, structure
• Overall performance: 🥚🥚🥚

You can use chia or flax seeds to replace eggs, as both grains gel in the presence of moisture. To use it, soak the seeds in water for five minutes before adding them to the batter. You can grind them or use them as-is, the only difference being that using whole seeds will give your baked goods a specific texture you won’t get when using eggs.

Chia and flax seeds have fat and protein, so they’ll provide structure and bind ingredients together. This happens because the seeds take up more space and absorb a lot of the liquid in the batter as they gel. 

This was clear to us as the resulting muffins were indeed drier, denser, and visually lumpier than the control group. The chia seeds provided some minor added sweetness, but it was hard to get past the denseness of the muffins themselves. That said, you may be able to adjust or add other ingredients to add moisture if you’re willing to experiment. 

Castro recommends you stay away from replacements if you’re making mayonnaise or hollandaise sauce, as no other ingredients will make up for everything eggs do in those particular foods. Browning and color are two other fronts where replacements won’t do as well, she says. The protein in foods like aquafaba will give you some color and gloss, but you’ll only be able to achieve the bronzed look of a brioche with the golden pigments of an egg yolk.  

The post 6 egg alternatives for these trying times appeared first on Popular Science.

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A new year is always a fresh opportunity to start your fitness journey. This can mean anything, whether you’d just like to get off the couch more often, want to run a 5K, or are hoping to win a bodybuilding competition by 2024. 

You may not be sure about how to achieve your goals, but that’s ok. Having the motivation to get out there is half the battle, and we want to help you along your way. 

PopSci has a number of science-backed fitness stories to guide you in this new era. You’ll learn how to make the best of your workouts, how to get gains safely and consistently, and how to keep your body healthy along the way. 

Our guide on how to get muscle gains will walk you through that process and explain how resting is as important as going to the gym, and how protein is a crucial element your body needs to build more mass.

[Related: You should definitely rotate your workouts]

Food restrictions like veganism can seem like an added layer of difficulty when it comes to including enough protein in your diet, but getting those gains doesn’t require you to become a carnivore. If you need guidance, head on over to our vegan guide on how to get muscle gains and learn about the foods that will give you the nutrients you need to achieve your fitness goals.  

But before you repeat the same stationary stretches you might remember from PE class, give dynamic warmups a try. These exercises will not only tell your brain it’s time to move—which is especially important after sitting at a desk for a while—but will also prepare your body for physical activity by getting your blood flowing and your heart rate up.

But other than resting, there are other techniques you can use to help your muscles feel better after a heavy workout. That annoying and painful soreness you feel around 24 hours after your last gym session is a result of muscle damage, and recovery techniques can help you handle the pain and help tissue heal faster. 

From classic stretching to foam rollers, ice baths, and massages, our guide on what works when it comes to recovery can be exactly what you need when your muscles are so sore that getting off your chair comes with excruciating pain. 

Knowing your maintenance rate—the number of calories you burn simply by existing—can give you a baseline to adjust the number of calories you eat every day to keep the muscles growing and fat-burning going. 

It’s important to know that monitoring your food can be a slippery slope to unhealthy habits, so make sure to do it only for short periods of time, and to follow experts’ recommendations regarding calorie surplus and deficit. And if you don’t know what those are, don’t worry—it’s all in our guide. 

Getting a fitness tracker can help compile all the statistics you need to keep going and improving—all you need is to put it on and go do your best. And if you don’t know which wearable to get, we have some recommendations that might lead you in the right direction. 

The type of device you get will highly depend on your budget and your preferred activity, but there are a lot of options to choose from, and they can all give you that extra motivation you need to face another day of your fitness journey.  

When it comes to building muscle and improving performance, science has only found two supplements that will help. Learning how to take them and how they work for your body will help you have a better understanding of your process. Keep in mind that you may need to consult a doctor before you start supplementing your nutrition, and also remember supplements don’t do miracles. Moving, resting, and, above all, patience, will keep you on a good path to your fitness goals. 

The post It’s time for your 2023 fitness journey—here’s how to get started appeared first on Popular Science.

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You are more than a data point. The Opt Out is here to help you take your privacy back.

THE TECHNOLOGY in modern home appliances has breathed new life (and plausibility) into the old saying “If these walls could talk.” Your fridge and smart speaker may not have mouths, but they have an internet connection, and that can be more dangerous than the sharpest of tongues. 

Tech companies and manufacturers have made it seem like privacy is just a matter of digging into your device’s settings and disabling cameras and microphones. But after years of data breaches and high-profile reports of secret recordings, maybe you don’t trust that approach and are looking for analog solutions that neutralize the hardware rather than the software.    

This is not just guesswork. A 2018 investigation by researchers at Northeastern University found that out of the 17,000 most popular apps on the Google Play Store, only a small handful of them surreptitiously listen to you. There are exceptions, but research shows most apps are well-behaved and don’t eavesdrop without your knowledge. To soothe our fears even more, both Android and iOS have launched on-screen features that let you know whenever your phone’s mics or cameras are operational.   

So when it comes to spying gadgets, the true wildcards are devices hooked up to the Internet of Things (IoT): smart fridges, washers, dryers, bulbs, and thermostats. For the past decade, people have been welcoming these gadgets into their homes, often not realizing that their data may be poorly protected or that malicious actors may be able to take control of the device itself. Even those who know about the potential security risks have reported difficulties finding specific information about them. 

Then there are smart speakers. The sole purpose of this type of gadget is to respond to your voice commands, but to do their job they need to be listening at all times. And according to manufacturers such as Amazon, they also need to record everything you say after the trigger word. They do this so their systems (and sometimes a team of humans you don’t know) can analyze your words and use them to help the artificial intelligence powering your speaker improve with time. 

That makes sense—after all, algorithms are only as good as the data we feed them. But even if you don’t have a smart speaker at home, you know trigger words can be tricky. It’s not that rare to “Hey Google” your heart out without the gizmo ever acknowledging you, and sometimes the most random conversation can summon Siri—even if no one said anything that sounds remotely like the name of Apple’s digital assistant. Nonverbal sounds can also invite Alexa to the party, and Amazon’s product has been caught sending private conversations to strangers.

Luckily, a lot has changed in the last couple years. Amazon’s latest generation of Echo devices now comes with a built-in button to turn off the mic, preventing any listening or recording. This also defeats the purpose of a smart speaker, but it’ll allow you to have that intimate family talk in private—if you remember to press the button first. Don’t worry if you’re stuck with an older Echo model: the company also changed its privacy settings so you can manage the recordings, transcripts, and usage history Amazon has on you, and even delete them. No matter which model you have, you can choose to prevent Alexa from saving any future recordings of you, and tell the company not to use your data to improve its smart assistant.  

After Alexa kept making headlines due to privacy concerns, Google and Apple took measures of their own. The Big G incorporated new management tools to give users more control over their Google Assistant usage history and put a switch on its speakers to turn off the mic. Both companies paused human review of users’ recordings, but Apple stepped it up a notch when it announced Siri would start handling commands locally. This means Apple’s HomePod would not need to send any recordings to the company’s servers to process a query. 

When it comes to protecting users’ privacy, these are all undeniable steps in the right direction. But it’s still fair to wonder if any of this would’ve happened had it not been for independent investigations and reports shedding light on sketchy situations. It’s also fair to wonder whether there are other ways in which these IoT devices are spilling the beans, laying messy groundwork for unexpected consequences in the future. More than that: These concerns are perfectly sensible.

Disabling microphones, though, is another story. The mics on smart speakers and home appliances are built to detect and understand human speech. For that purpose, they’re equipped with an AI-powered speech system that allows them to focus on one sound source, effectively isolating your voice. So even if your huskies decide to come together in song in the same room, there’s still a pretty good chance your gadgets will understand their trigger word. That means that to prevent your devices from spying on you, you’d have to drown out their mics with constant loud sound. Not the most practical task in the world. 

That’s not to say there aren’t solutions. Take Project Alias, for example: an open-source, 3D-printable gizmo that sits atop your smart speaker and constantly drowns out the microphone to prevent recording. It won’t totally neutralize your speaker, and you can rename your device so that when you say the trigger word, the microphones will work again. That means if you rename your Echo speaker “PopSci,” Project Alias won’t allow it to hear “Alexa” but will grant you access if you say, “Hey, PopSci.” The bad news is that Project Alias was designed to fit a previous tubular-shaped version of the Echo, and the discontinued Google Home, so it’ll only help if you buy these speakers secondhand or already have one at home. Needless to say, it won’t work with other IoT devices.

Short of options, the next step we can take to protect our privacy against snooping devices is to just not buy smart home devices. This may sound like an extremely disappointing solution, especially when you’ve already splurged on a washing machine that texts you when your laundry is ready for the dryer—but that’s what we’ve got. The research team at Northeastern University is looking to determine just how much data these gadgets are harvesting, but as long as manufacturers hide information under the guise of proprietary technology, we’ll never have full transparency as to what they’re actually doing. And just like with smart speakers, changes are most likely to come only after abuse has been exposed and harm already done. 

In the meantime, if you’re in the market for new appliances, ask yourself if you really need your lightbulbs connected to your WiFi network, or how much value fridge notifications bring into your life. Sure, being able to peek through your doorbell camera on your phone can be incredibly useful, but the price you pay may not only be in dollars—and you’ll be paying it for as long as your device is online. 

Read more PopSci+ stories.

The post The Opt Out: When it comes to privacy, smart devices are not the smarter choice appeared first on Popular Science.

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In your language-learner dreams, you may be asking a local what time the train is coming in a perfect Parisian accent, or ordering scialatelli as if you’ve spent your entire life vacationing on the Amalfi Coast. But knowing the words is one thing. Sounding like a native is entirely different.

“From a learning perspective, you don’t need to sound like you have lived in Paris your whole life in order to speak French and be understood, and have a great time communicating,” says Blanco.

[Related: The language you speak changes your perception of time]

It’s totally valid to want to eventually pronounce everything perfectly and have people ask you if you’ve spent a lot of time abroad. But the true goal of learning a second or third language should be communication, which is often unrelated to pronunciation. 

So the next time you’re having trouble with a particular sound, ask yourself if it changes the meaning of words at all. If the answer is no, your attention and focus will be better served elsewhere. 

Blanco explains that communication generally happens in two layers: first, you think of a concept or desire, then your brain translates that into words you can express to others through sounds. 

“When you’re learning a new language, we don’t automatically map the new words to the concepts, we map them to our own language. So we create an extra layer,” Blanco explains.  

So, you think of a concept, then think of the words to express that concept in your mother tongue, and then you consciously look for the equivalent of those words in the language you’re learning. And that’s just at a conceptual level. Once you have the words, your brain has to tell your face muscles to overcome decades of use and move in strange and unfamiliar ways to emit the sounds of these new words. It’s a lot. 

Slowing down on the spot will give you more time to manage the internal process of thinking and speaking in a new language, while slowing down across the board will give your brain time to better adjust to something new.  

“The goal of learning is to have so much practice with the new language that you start mapping it directly to the concept. That’s what people mean when they talk about thinking in the language—you want to skip the translation in your head,” says Blanco. 

Thinking about your brain as a muscle and a new language as physical activity might help—picking up swimming when you’ve been running your entire life is hard. Muscles you didn’t even know you had will be sore, and maybe you won’t even know how to breathe correctly. Don’t worry—your skills will grow with time and practice.  

When it comes to vowels, Blanco recommends that English speakers think of these sounds as shorter and sharper. For example, the Spanish “O” sounds like only half of the aforementioned English “oʊ” phoneme, which in turn sounds like the pairing of two Spanish phonemes: “O” and “U.”  

For English speakers, there’s no doubt that the Mount Everest of Spanish pronunciation is the rolling or trilled “R”. If you’ve felt the frustration of not being able to replicate this sound, Blanco says you can just skip it. More often than not, an inability to trill your Rs will not affect communication. Yes, you’ll sound like an American speaking Spanish, but locals will still be able to get what you’re saying. 

If you’re going to stress over Rs, your energy is better spent mastering the single “R” sound in Spanish—the one you’ll encounter in words like “para” and “arena.” This one’s especially tricky because it actually exists in English, but under a different letter, Blanco explains. 

“We just don’t think of it being an ‘R’—we think it’s a double ‘T’ or a double ‘D,’ like in ‘ladder’ or ‘matter,’” says Blanco. 

In cases like this one, turning off the subtitles and skipping the transcripts when you’re listening to Spanish content can be a good idea, as it will let you concentrate on the sounds and not get tricked by the words.  

Moving your face and mouth muscles in a way that may feel exaggerated is necessary for good English pronunciation. And even if it feels like you’re doing a Jim Carrey impersonation, you’re not—you’re just moving your face in an unfamiliar way. The other problem is that mastering English vowels is necessary because unlike the rolling Rs in Spanish, these sounds can change the meaning of a word, like in “bit” and “beat.”

Blanco explains that the main challenges are rounded vowels. These are the sounds that require you to round your lips, which can feel extremely unnatural for English and Spanish speakers since these sounds are nowhere to be found in those languages. 

To get better at this, your best bet is to observe the mouths of francophones and try imitating them. Blanco recommends streaming a French show and paying close attention to how people move their lips when they speak. You can also have a mirror at hand and try to imitate the sounds and movements on the spot. Don’t do this without a reference—you want to be able to compare the correct form to what you’re doing and tweak it as necessary.  

Just like Spanish speakers learning English, English speakers learning French will feel like they’re contorting their muscles a lot more, which can lead to feeling self-conscious. But there’s no need to—you’re probably not moving excessively, just moving in a way you’re not used to. Keep at it until it becomes natural. 

But there’s a catch—or more. While Spanish is a category 1 language on the difficulty scale, Japanese is a category 8 (the highest). Among the reasons for this discrepancy are stress patterns, long vowels, double or geminated consonants, and rhythm.  

[Related: 5 great apps for learning a new language]

Japanese has a different stress pattern than English, explains Blanco, and while Americans usually stress one syllable, native Japanese speakers tend to stress syllables more consistently throughout, making words sound somewhat flatter. Geminated consonants, also present in Italian, add to longer vowel sounds that prolong the basic phonemes to create new ones. And if that’s not enough, the rhythm of Japanese is completely different from English, which forces learners to unlearn even how they breathe when speaking. 

Doing a lot of listening and thinking about intonation and rhythm can help, Blanco says, as it can make it easier for a Japanese listener to break apart what you’re saying.

Blanco recommends focusing your attention on watching native speakers’ mouths, and listening exercises. This time, forgo any transcripts, as German has sounds that are present in English but are represented by different letters. This can result in written words being more confusing than helpful. 

The post Learning a new language? Here’s how to perfect your pronunciation. appeared first on Popular Science.

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We all deserve more secure internet connections, and if you splurged on one of Google’s latest phones, you already have one available. The Pixel 7 and the Pixel 7 Pro come with a built-in VPN, giving users a private and secure network for no extra charge. 

The feature has been available for some time to Google One users on the Premium tier ($100 a year), so if you’re renting cloud storage from the big G, you can also use this feature, no matter what device you have. 

Setting it up the first time is not as intuitive as you’d hope, but once you’ve enabled it, it’ll be way easier to turn on and off whenever you need an extra layer of security. 

On a new Pixel, once Google One is installed, the device will prompt you to sign in using the main account on your phone. On the next screen, the app will show you a pop-up message saying you have access to a VPN and inviting you to set it up. Tap Manage to do just that.

If you’re not on a Pixel 7, log into the app using the account linked to your Google One subscription. On the Home tab, scroll down and tap Manage on the VPN tile.

On the next screen, tap the toggle switch next to Use VPN to turn it on. Accept the connection request that follows, and your connection will automatically become private. You’ll know the VPN is active because you’ll see a tiny key icon to the left of the clock in the upper right corner of your screen.

Remember that the Quick Settings menu only has 16 slots. When you open the notifications drawer (pull down from the top of your screen with one finger) you’ll only see the first four; if you fully open the menu, you’ll only see the first eight; and you’ll have to slide that group to the left to see the remaining eight. If you will be using your VPN on and off throughout the day, we recommend you drop its corresponding tile into one of the first four slots, to save yourself some slide gestures and ensure you always have easy access to it. 

This virtual globe-hopping feature has helped users access content that’s not readily available in their region, like titles in Netflix’s French catalog that you can’t get in the US. To prevent this workaround, some apps just block VPNs altogether—you can open them, but they won’t load until you turn your VPN off. If you have one of these restrictive apps on your phone, it won’t make any exceptions for Google’s VPN, but you’ll be able to give these apps the ability to bypass the private connection so you can keep using them while the VPN is on.

To do this, open the Google One app and tap on the VPN tile. Under Using apps when the VPN is on, tap Update settings, then hit the plus sign next to each app you want to ignore the VPN. Once you’re done, Google One will prompt you to restart your connection and you’ll be good to go. 

VPNs can be extremely helpful whenever you have to access sensitive information while using a public network. So, if you need to check your bank balance and the only way to connect to the internet is through a store’s WiFi, you’ll definitely want to protect yourself from potential attacks by using a VPN. Setting it up now will let you have it handy whenever you need it. 

The post Pixel 7 users can now activate Google’s mobile VPN for free appeared first on Popular Science.

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If you want to skip all that, there’s an easy way to avoid making a mistake that might not only result in irreparable damage to your screen but to your entire device. According to Joe Silverman, owner of New York Computer Help, a tech repair center in New York City, no matter how much money you spent on your computer or tablet, it probably has an LED or an LCD screen if you bought it within the last three years—and neither type benefits from window cleaner or highly concentrated alcohol. 

[Related: The complete guide to spring cleaning your computer]

And if that doesn’t sound bad enough, think about what happens when the protective layer is completely ruined.  

“Underneath there it’s the most intelligent part of the laptop,” Silverman explains. “What happens is that the liquid will get through that first line of defense, and when it does that it’s going to really affect the sensors.” 

Things get even trickier when you’re dealing with touchscreens. On models like the Microsoft Surface, the display is the main input—as opposed to your mouse or trackpad on a regular laptop—so it’s ultra-sensitive, Silverman says. Using a strong liquid cleaner like a degreaser or a bleach-based disinfectant can obliterate the top layer on the screen. Combine that with high pressure, and you can kiss your fancy touchscreen computer goodbye.

Another downside to newer computers is their size and weight. If you decided to splurge on a new laptop, for example, you probably found one that has top-notch components, but also a slick, lightweight design. This format is only possible if everything in your laptop is smaller and thinner. In the case of your display, a thinner screen means a weaker barrier between your computer’s guts and the elements in the outside world. 

First, turn off your computer and disconnect the charger. This might sound paranoid, but the benefit is twofold—you avoid any chance of triggering an electrical surge, and your screen will remain black, which will make it easier to see any dirt and grime.

Pour a couple drops of water on your cloth. Forget paper towels or the sleeve of that soft cotton t-shirt you love—microfiber is your best bet. Still, no matter how soft it is, a dry wipe could always leave micro-abrasions on your screen. The moisture will also help gather dust and particles while lifting grease from your display. 

Use circular motions starting in the center of your screen and moving outward, so you don’t leave any streaks. If you can see any droplets or water traces on the glass while you clean, you’ve used way too much water. Gently dab the residual H2O with an absorbent cloth or tissue paper and start again. 

If you’re dealing with next-level gunk, you can use isopropyl alcohol at 70 percent or lower, Silverman says. “That percentage is very important,” he explains. “We’d only use 90 percent or higher on dummy parts that don’t have sensors, like top cases and keyboards.” In these extreme cases, spray the alcohol on the cloth, never directly on the screen, and wipe it gently. 

Maybe you can get away with using a high percentage of alcohol or even a window cleaner on your computer screen once or twice. But if you keep at it, eventually you’ll see the deleterious effects. 

“You’ll see discoloration, lines (vertical and horizontal); sometimes it looks pretty and rainbow-like,” Silverman says. “Sometimes it’ll blink and sometimes you’ll see droplets of water or liquid in the back of the screen. There’s a lot of ways in which damage appears.”

And here is the bad news: you cannot fix it. The only way to get rid of that damage is to replace the screen. 

The best way to avoid damaging your screen while cleaning it is to simply keep it from getting dirty in the first place. If you have a laptop, cover the keyboard with a thin microfiber cloth before closing it to prevent finger grease from transferring to the screen. If you have a touchscreen, wash your hands often before you use it, but make sure you let your hands dry completely before you start tapping—the soapy water or liquid hand cleanser from your fingers can easily end up on the screen and corrode it. 

Wet, newly washed hands can also be detrimental to regular computers. Silverman says he often sees such victims in his shop—computers completely dead after hand sanitizer rubbed off the owner’s hands, seeped through the keyboard, and ruined the inner guts of the machine. 

[Related: Best monitors for home offices]

Silverman explains that most iPhones and Samsung phones, for example, have screens made out of one thick piece of glass. These, as opposed to computer screens, have all the LCD layers fused together, making them much more difficult to damage. Still, if you’re using alcohol, he recommends keeping the concentration at 70 percent or lower, using a soft cloth, and applying only low pressure to get rid of any accumulated gunk there. 

Be especially careful with charging ports, as contact with water (also present in rubbing alcohol) can damage the electronics inside your smartphone. Newer models often are resistant to liquids, but there’s always a threshold to how much they can withstand. And you probably don’t want to know what that is.

Replacing the screen of your computer or smartphone can be expensive, and even if that’s not an issue for you, no one wants their devices to fail when they need them the most. So remember these tips well—we hope you never have to read this article again.

This story has been updated. It was originally posted on October 13, 2021.

The post How to clean a computer screen without destroying it appeared first on Popular Science.

Articles may contain affiliate links which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made.

Best for walks		Volt Lava Boots		SEE IT	If you need to hotfoot it somewhere but it’s cold outside, you’ll be fired up to get where you need to go once you get your feet in these heated boots.
Best for beverages		Ember Travel Mug		SEE IT	Keep your coffee or tea steamy for up to three hours on the go—or indefinitely while on the included charging coaster—thanks to a seven-sensor heating system and built-in battery pack.
Best for bedtime		Eddie Bauer Flannel Sheets		SEE IT	Achieve maximum coziness with these sheets, but they come with a warning: May make you not want to get out of bed.

For some people, the holidays are far from the most wonderful time of the year, temperature-wise. While others are going on strolls to enjoy the crisp fall air or playing in the snow of a winter wonderland, these folks just don’t seem to be built to withstand the dipping temperatures. Just like bears, they seem to spend the last months of the year hibernating in the warmth of their homes, dreading the very thought of setting a single foot outside. You can convince them to leave their home, though, by giving them the proper gear to keep them warm and cozy. Here are some of our hottest picks for the best gifts for the perpetually cold:

• Best for people with cold feet: Heat Holders Thermal Socks
• Best for techie coffee and tea drinkers: Ember Travel Mug
• Best shoes for winter walks: Volt Lava Boots
• Best hoodie: Chrome Merino Cobra Hoodie
• Best slippers: Glerups Wool Slip-On
• Best for the couch potato: The Comfy Wearable Blanket
• Best heated blanket: Bedsure Heated Blanket
• Best space heater: De’Longhi Ceramic Tower Heater
• Best for cold sleepers: Eddie Bauer Flannel Collection
• Best jacket: Oros Atmos Jacket
• Best for campers and commuters: Hydro Flask 16oz Insulated Cup
• Best for the cook: Fuego Box Spicy Box of Awesome
• Best fire pit: Solo Stove Bonfire
• Best for cold hands: Öjbro Karg Glove
• Best for dry hands and chapped lips: Aquaphor’s Healing Ointment
• Best blanket: Brooklinen Cashmere and Lambswool Throw Blanket
• Best personal heater: Ostrichpillow Heatbag

Best for people with cold feet: Heat Holders Thermal Socks

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When you’re cold, it makes sense to heat yourself from the bottom up, which is why everyone should have a pair (or six) of thermal socks. Heat Holders socks are made out of yarn that’s been developed in-house, and knitted to hold in warm air without cutting off your circulation. Yes, the socks will add some bulk to one’s feet, but that’s kind of the point. Nobody wants sweaty feet, but that shouldn’t be an issue since the yarn Heat Holders uses automatically wicks away moisture. The company says its socks are over seven times warmer than traditional cotton pairs, which is reason enough to stuff them in a stocking. — Brandt Ranj

Best for techie coffee and tea drinkers: Ember Travel Mug

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Ember’s 12-ounce Travel Mug can keep beverages between 120 and 145 degrees Fahrenheit for up to three hours thanks to a seven-sensor heating system and built-in battery pack. One can set the mug’s temperature through an app or by using its touch-sensitive display. Ember bundles its Travel Mug with a coaster, which doubles as a wireless charging pad. The mug will keep beverages warm continuously when it’s on the coaster, which is great for anyone who works at a desk. And it will warm your heart to know there are also options if you’re looking for a more “traditional” 10-ounce coffee mug or 6-ounce espresso cup. — Brandt Ranj

Best shoes for winter walks: Volt Lava Boots

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Volt’s Lava Boots take the concept of the Ember Mug (above) and extend it to your feet. The boots feature a rechargeable 8V battery that can power their integrated heating elements for up to 14 hours depending on whether they’re set to low, medium, or high. One can change between these settings by using the Volt app or through a controller on the shoes themselves. The best part about the Lava Boots is that they don’t scream “gadget.” Other people walking around won’t notice your high-tech shoes—in fact, the Lava Boots are actually pretty fashionable depending on your style. Looking for something more low-profile but still extremely comfy? Check out the 3V Camp Heated Slippers, which keep your toes toasty whether you’re on your deck or at your desk. — Brandt Ranj

Best hoodie: Chrome Merino Cobra Hoodie

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Hoodies and sweaters may be one of the first things that come to mind when you think of warmth and comfort. A hoodie made out of wool is better. And a hoodie made of Merino wool is the best. The prized material is breathable, odor-resistant, totally biodegradable, and oh, so soft. Chrome’s Merino Cobra Hoodie features all the properties of this natural fiber in an all-black, classic design that will match any outfit. Your ever-frozen friend can wear it as a cozy garment indoors, or as an extra layer to insulate from the biting frost outside.

Best slippers: Glerups Wool Slip-On

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Let’s admit it, satisfying feet is no mean feat. Sometimes they’re too cold, but overcompensate and they’re swampy. The solution? Enter the self-regulating wonders of wool. The Glerups felt slip-on (with 100% pure natural wool) naturally absorbs moisture while keeping your extremities warm. At the same time, they’re breathable—so just as comfy in the summer—and protect against odor. Available in multiple colors with either leather or rubber soles (the latter being better if you use them, like I do, to walk the dog and do other lite outdoor activities), they’re also available as a shoe and a boot, if a slipper isn’t your thing. — Tony Ware

Best for the couch potato: The Comfy Wearable Blanket

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The Comfy looks ridiculous, but any semblance of pretension melts away whenever one puts it on. This is basically a blanket masquerading as a one-size-fits-all oversized hoodie. The Comfy is probably best recommended for at-home use, but it’s well worth a look if you’re shopping for someone who just wants to binge-watch shows all winter without freezing. The Comfy’s sherpa inner lining and microfiber outer lining are soft to the touch, which makes it easy to wear for hours at a time, while the centered pouch gives one a place to put their hands. The Comfy is objectively ridiculous, but it’s also ridiculously warm. — Brandt Ranj

Best heated blanket: Bedsure Heated Blanket

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Bedsure’s Heated Blanket is an essential gift for anyone who wants to make it through the winter without being tempted to reach for the thermostat. The flannel blanket’s heating coils are arranged to provide even heating, and a large controller lets you adjust their intensity between 104 and 113 degrees Fahrenheit. If one falls asleep with the blanket on, the heating coils will automatically shut off after three hours to prevent overheating. Surprisingly, Bedsure’s Heated Blanket is machine washable, so it can be kept clean without a big hassle. The only difficult decision will be whether to get this blanket in a single-person throw size or one that covers the entire bed. — Brandt Ranj

Best space heater: De’Longhi Ceramic Tower Heater

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A cold room can put anyone in a bad mood, which is why De’Longhi’s Tower Heater is such a thoughtful gift. The 1500W oscillating heater was very effective in our tests, appreciably raising the temperature of the bedroom we were in within minutes. One can adjust the heater’s settings by pressing buttons on its face or using its remote. The Ceramic Tower Heater’s safety features, which include an override that shuts it off if it gets too hot, a switch that disables it if it tips, and a timer, provide ample peace of mind. If anything, the space heater worked too quickly and effectively. We were also surprised at how quiet the heater was unless it was cranked to an ultra-high setting, which means it can be used in a living room without disturbing anybody. — Brandt Ranj

Best for cold sleepers: Eddie Bauer Portuguese Flannel Sheets

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It can be hard to fall asleep in a room that’s too cold, especially if you’ve got poor circulation, but that’s exactly what Eddie Bauer’s Portuguese Flannel Sheets are designed to prevent. The sheet set is made from double-brushed imported cotton and comes in nine styles. Each set includes a fitted sheet, top sheet, and a pair of pillowcases. Eddie Bauer offers its flannel sheets in twin, queen, full, and king sizes, too. The only downside to these sheets is that they may make it more difficult to get out of bed in the morning. — Brandt Ranj

Best jacket: Oros Atmos Jacket

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OROS used materials developed at NASA called SOLARCORE to insulate its hooded Atmos Jacket, and we can vouch for its incredible insulating properties. Traditionally, jackets needed to be thick to create a large enough buffer between you and the elements to keep you warm, but that’s not the case here. The jacket was surprisingly thin and light while still providing ample warmth and comfort. Plus, much like the Lava Boots, the Oros Atmos Jacket looks perfectly innocent. It’s only when you put it on that you notice a difference. Oros says the jacket is designed for temperatures as low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit, which makes it an ideal top layer for winter months in many parts of the world. — Brandt Ranj

Best for campers and commuters: Hydro Flask 16oz Insulated Cup